This is probably a dumb question as I would say the answer is no… but there is a tiny hole in one of the lifter bores… I just noticed it as I was cleaning after picking it up from the shop. My machine shop I guess didn’t catch it during the block prep. That hole was before there as I can see it in pics before dropping it off at the shop.
Also— is this hole suppose to be here ? This would be for a 350 block. Just asking cause the 455 doesn’t have it as I’m now doing a deep inspection on my 350 after finding that hole in the 455.
The hole in the front of the block is open, clean it up with a rat tail file or de-burr. If that engine ran with the casting flaw (sand hole) it is likely fine, but if you are concerned, drill it, tap it, clean the inside of the bore, to make sure there is no burrs and degrease and use red loctite and a small internal wrenching plug. Be sure it does not enter the inside of the bore.
I appreciate the quick response thank you very much. I didn’t see the engine run as I bought it off Craigslist a year ago as a core. And if I used a plug on it does the material matter ? I see some aluminum or steel. I’d rather just leave it be and send it
I'd use general carbon steel fastener. Same as installing lifter girdle or splash shield. It is not much more effort than JB Weld for that one job. JB Weld would also be fine, but their are so many that kick back on the thought of such "rednecky injuneering", I was avoiding that.
Do not do any sort of braising or welding, period! I am pretty picky on fixing cracks and holes up, but with this simple one just spray it out good with brake clean while scrubbing it good with a cheap 4 buck brass bristle brush, and then JB weld it at the proper room temp and then never think about it again. When done make sure a new lifter placed in that Bore rotates just as freely as any of the other bores. If it does not then take a brake cylinder hone to it or with a carful usage of a stone in aDremal tool chamfer that hole on the inside of the Bore.
Yes, JB Weld. Don’t make it a more complex repair than need be. In actuality the body of the lifter will seal the hole, but JB Weld on the OUTSIDE of the bore will prevent oil from wizzing out. Years ago on a ‘78 350 block it had casting porosity in the oil gallery going down to the rear main, I could see oil wizzing out running the pump with the drill. I sprayed it down with brake clean then used JB Weld on a paint stick going thru the opening in the cam tunnel ( cam was out, engine was in car) worked great! Funny thing was I had been driving the car, even drove it to the GS Nationals, great oil pressure, 20 psi hot idle on 10/30 oil.
Thanks for the replays everybody. Picked up some JBweld and once the weather gets warmed up next week ill clean it and patch up real good.
You can wrap wax paper or tape on a lifter and push it into the bore to take up the space and keep from having a lot of JBWeld on the inside of the bore. It is pretty hard to work once cured and you don't want to take any metal out of that bore trying to hone/sand the repair. Make sure it is the "original/slow cure" stuff. It is a much stronger/resilient epoxy than the "quick".
I dont think if you put tape or that on a lifter it will fit. There is only about .0015-.0020 clearance between