Well, tomorrow is the big day. I FINALLY have my 92 Chevy pickup ready to start. It's been a long cold winter with lot's of fits and starts due to job changes, other "Honey-do's" and just general 'stuff' getting in the way. I actually pulled the engine out last August to put in all new freeze plugs, a new timing chain and a new oil pump. Like many of these projects, it kinda got out of hand. New Edlebrock Performer cam, shorty headers, ARP cam bolts and oil pump drive shaft and a Trickflow TBI spacer. I have to really give some serious kudos to Summit Racing here in Reno. They had some great pricing, stuff was in stock and the headers. Man, I have NEVER, EVER installed a set that fit so well. There was absolutely NO 'adjustment' necessary. :beer :bglasses: They fit just like they are supposed to and they were the less expensive Summit brand rather than Hooker or some of the really expensive sets I have seen listed in their catalogue lately. $175 out the door. Thick flanges (1/2") and came with all of the necessary bolts and gaskets. Slick-slick-slick. No interference or clearance issues, stock exhaust cross over fit exactly correctly. Just a very cool install. I'll post an update tomorrow after it's running. Keep youf fingers crossed for me! :laugh:
Yee Haw!!!!!!!!!! Not only did it start before it turned over twice, it runs pretty much not too bad. (Quoting the SNL Father Guido Sarducci) Did the cam break-in procedure and let 'er idle for a bit before shutting it down. Couple of issues I wanted to check with you guys though. 1) Runs hot. At idle, in an air temp of about 40*, it went to 230* before I shut it off. Now, I haven't done the final set of the ignition timing and the Check Engine light is on. (More on that later). I also watched it do a pretty good imitation of Old Faithful, geysering hot water 2-3 feet in the air. Looked like maybe a stuck thermostat? Didn't get too awfully hot during the cam break-in though when it was running at 2k RPM for 20 minutes, then 2000 - 3000 RPM for another 10. 2) Check engine light is on. I have a code reader and it tells me the O2 sensor is at full voltage. It does move back and forth from open loop to closed loop operation though there doesn't really seem to be any rhyme or reason to the changes. It looks like I bent the cover on the O2 sensor when the engine went back in. Maybe I mashed it guts or something? It is definitely bent though. 3) MAP sensor is turning in a trouble code too. Says high voltage at idle. Foot notes in the book tell me it could be due to rough idle. It is a bit erratic when it comes back to idle, down to about 400 RPM, then smooths out pretty quickly at about 650 RPM. 4) No reverse gear in the 700R4. It almost wants to engage but doesn't quite get there. Since my driveway is inclined 3-4 degrees, I didn't check the fluid level. One thing I thought might affect it is the TV cable. I put a TFS spacer under the TBI unit. It's either a 1 or 1 1/2 inch spacer. I assume I need to do one of two things (maybe both?) to get this corrected. Move the bracket holding the linkage up to bring the geometry back to stock or readjust the cable. Now, adjusting a T-350 cable is a simple procedure. I don't think it's the same thing for the 700R4 is it? Anybody know what it actually is? Would it be easier to simply space the bracket up a like amount? BTW, I didn't allow the adjuster to move when I took it apart. I'll replace the O2 sensor on payday :laugh: and see if that doesn't settle down the super rich condition. Question: Would a damaged O2 sensor cause or contribute to the MAP sensor problem? Also, I'll set the timing up a couple of degrees. I have been through the firing order probably a dozen times, going from one side of the truck to the other as the cylinder bank changes from side to side to verify I actually have the number 8 wire and not number 4. Been there, done that ASSUIMING thing looking over the valve cover. :rant: So gents and ladies, opinions? Oh, and it idles like a complete stocker. I expected that with the itty bitty lift on the cam Edlebrock recommends for TBI engines. Thanks in advance folks! Phil
I would expect the o2 sensor to cause a richness as the ecu doesn't know what the mixture is so it throws out more fuel just to make sure it doesn't run lean and wreck a few things. Sounds like you've already answered your own questions. lol
:laugh: Yep. Replaced the obviously bad O2 sensor. While I was standing on my head doing that, I noticed that the vacuum line from the throttle body to the MAP sensor had become disconnected. Hooked that back up, advanced the timing a couple of degrees and started 'er up again. Problems solved, runs like a champ and doesn't get hot. In fact, I had a long wait to get the thing warmed up enough to get the thermostat to even open. I haven't taken the truck for a ride yet so I don't know how the trans shifts. I pulled the truck into the garage where the floor is level and checked the fluid. Naturally, it was quite low. I had forgotten about the dipstick coming loose while the engine was out and spilling ATF all over the floor. Filled it up and that cured the gear engagement problem. Thanks
