I bought a stock 68 rebuild from Everyday performance and it seems to work very well. I am going to order the Xri # 750-1710 from amazon in a few minutes.
Jets and rods are only half the story in terms of rich/lean. Air bleeds (size and location) are a huge factor, the stiffness of the power piston spring, and the secondary rod hanger will also affect the fuel curve. Part-throttle ping is what GM used to call "The Sound of Economy". Part-throttle ping is NOWHERE NEAR as harmful as heavy- or full-throttle detonation. Yes, ideally there'd be no audible ping or detonation. Light part-throttle ping doesn't scare me, but I'd tune it out if I could.
As you can see in the 2nd pic it does not have points but some kind of ignition already in it. I googled the number on it but couldnt get any hits. The plugs all look very nice. I also got a vacuum guage adjusted carb and set the timing back to 0 btdc and set vacuum advance to pull off manifold. It no longer pings but is still hesitates up top like there's a miss somewhere. Idles pretty smoothly at what I'm guessing is around 550 600 rpms in drive. ---------- Post added at 01:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 AM ---------- [video=youtube;PeBpffO5xGI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeBpffO5xGI&feature=plcp[/video]
Looks like a Pertronix ignition. I would carefully look over the fuel system. Check the rubber lines at the tank, and fuel pump. Look for porosity, and softening of the lines. If you can tee in a fuel pressure gauge, check the pressure at WOT. If the fuel pump is old, it may be weak.
now I just have more questions. Apparently the plugs on there are resistor type. It looks like the wires are also resistor type. That doesn't seem quite right to me. Shouldn't the wires be a solid core type wire? Is it possible there is too much resistance with my ignition?
No. Resistor plugs and wires are what the car came with. Newer wires are of the spiral core type which are much longer lasting than the carbon core type OEM wires.
I have already replaced the fuel hose coming out of the tank but am not able to find anymore fuel leaks since. The fuel line going into the carb is a little twisted but I do not think it would restrict that much flow if any. grrrrr more stuff to go over I guess
There should be rubber fuel lines at the fuel pump itself. They may look fine but when you take them off and squeeze or flex them they tend to show their cracks.
This pertronix ignition is probably the reason my tach/dwell meter isn't reading correctly. For the curious people out there It appeared to be pulling about 17" of vacuum while in park but I really do not know what rpm that was at probably around 800 or so.
I live in the Sacramento area. Citrus heights to be exact. It can read the volts and dwell just fine but the needle goes all wonky on the tach setting. ---------- Post added at 01:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 PM ---------- that's the exact one I have!
Black clamp to batt neg or good ground, green wire to coil negative - the lead that follows to the distributor documentation here http://www.actron.com/publish/2007/05/18/pdf_english_16160.pdf
I emailed the guys at pertronix told me I need to use a 10k ohm 1/2 watt resistor on tach leads to work correctly. I removed the fuel filter and replaced it with a much larger universal one and it helped the hesitation up top a lil bit but mileage is still turrible. I think I am going to make up some taylor wires this weekend.
I put a shop towel over the pipe and no black residue and it doesn't smell rich. I received the Crane XrI but really do not need it because I have the Pertronix ignitor in there already. I will return it to Amazon unless someone on here wants it.
