Legendary Interiors Rock! I hate to poke holes in new door panels!

Discussion in 'Interior City' started by knucklebusted, Nov 17, 2012.

  1. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Fedex delivered my new door panels 30 minutes ago. I must say Legendary Interiors does some very nice work. They packed them well and they arrived in excellent condition.

    My only issue is I hate to start poking holes in them. How did anyone else go about it? They are scored/marked on the back so I'm hoping the holes line up as needed.

    Gratuitous pictures attached.
     

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  2. Doo Wop

    Doo Wop Where were you in '62?

    They are scored/marked on the back so I'm hoping the holes line up as needed.



    Yup, will line up just right.
     
  3. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    Ummm...maybe not...I disagree about the holes lining up. I've done many door panels, Legendary is the best, no question about it. I bought an interior for my 67GS from them it was excellent. The stainless trim had to be removed from the old door panels and moved to the new panels. The holes were punched in the new panels for the tabs. They did match up perfectly, except for...I think it was the rear panel trim...the holes for the trim there were way off by an inch or two. Fortunately, before I made any holes I checked the tabs on the stainless against the holes on the new panel to see where they would fall. It was no prob for me, but if you had just punched through their holes you would have had extra holes! They probably wouldn't have shown, they would have been under the stainless. It's always a good idea to check your hole locations against the originals, also. That's the remote mirror hole, pw or manual window hole, armrest holes, etc. You only get one shot if they are off! Sometimes you also need to enlarge or reshape the clip holes also. PS...after I finished making the small stainless trim holes with an awl, I noticed that Legendary had included a small awl type tool to make the holes. I didn't even see it til I was done.
     
  4. BuickNut70

    BuickNut70 Silver Level contributor

    Mine came in last week! Same stuff except in pearl white.:TU:
     
  5. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Hmm, looking them over. The backside doesn't have the holes for the clips where the snap in along the front and back edges. How are people dealing with this? I'm very paranoid of screwing these up.
     
  6. mrolds69

    mrolds69 "The Cure"

    The holes should definitely be there for the clips. They are like faintly stamped, you need to carefully stick a small screwdriver, awl or something and pop them out. You will only be popping out the cardboard panel. Look at your originals for position, you should definitely see where they are punched + pop out. You are not poking holes, they are stamped in the panel. You just need to dig them out. If you don't see the stampings then call Legendary.
     
  7. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    OK, let me dig out my magnifying glass and see what that turns up. They are not as obvious as the window crank. Thanks for the insight. Panic attack averted.
     
  8. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Greg, they are there but as said before they are very faint. I just got a new set myself. You need to be very careful when pulling out the hard board material so you do not punch through the vinyl in front.. What I have done is use my finger and push on the vinyl from the front side to make the board part in back bulge out in back. You can then grab onto the tabs with a screwdriver or something. it will come out in layers and is quite time consuming. Be very careful not to puncture the vinyl. Also the tabs may not line up with the door panels correctly. This is my second set I am working on. My first set the tab slots were way off and I had to elongate the slots. It was a real problem. I know a little better how to deal with it if it is a problem now. Also fitment at the front of the door panels may be too long and they may interfere with the kick panel. another problem is the thicker material on the vinly horizontal bars where they wrap around in the back. they are much thicker than stock and they make it tough to make the metal tabs pop into the doors. Funny thing is they finally started to outline the round screw hole for the rear screw in the long armrest. In older ones they made(the ones i got with my car were from 2006) they did not even have this. I guess they did not know this style 70 door panel used long armrests? All I can say is go slow and be careful. No matter how finsihed they look it still requires some work to make them work.

    ---------- Post added at 02:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:33 PM ----------

    Also some of the middle slots may be actually under the black material in back. You will need to use a sharp razor to cut it away to find it. Crazy
     
  9. knucklebusted

    knucklebusted Well-Known Member

    Good to know. It may take some time but I'm in no hurry. Still much better than living with my 42 year old raggedy ones.
     
  10. pglade

    pglade Well-Known Member

    On the oval shaped holes (or marked areas where those holes will be) that hold the door panel retention clips....

    DON'T ASSUME that those oval holes will put the clip in the correct spot.

    >Remove the pre-marked oval hole material

    >Slip a clip onto whatever edge of the oval hole you THINK will be close, and

    >Set the door panel in place and see how well the clip "point" lines up with the plastic inserts in the door shell.

    THE MAIN IDEA IS you don't want the clip going into the plastic insert under stress, at an angle, etc. EACH clip needs to be positioned in the oval hole where it has a STRAIGHT SHOT into the plastic insert in the door shell. Take it one clip location at a time.

    If you angle or stress the clip too much you may get unsightly lumps, OR WORSE, showing through under the vinyl on the panel.

    TAKE YOUR TIME. I've had Legendary door panels that I have had to elongate many of the oval holes on. Yours may be dead on from the get-go or one or two may be off (or more).

    The neatness and look of the end result will be a function of your patience and attention to detail. They are great panels but don't be upset or dismayed if you have to do a little of this "detail work" before getting them finally installed. IT WILL BE WORTH IT.

    Good luck Mr. Phelps.:laugh:
     
  11. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Patton, Exactly. I will bet money they will be off
     
  12. JohnnyGS

    JohnnyGS Well-Known Member

    Glad i found this post, it's from 2012. i just got my 67 gs 400 interior from legendary yesterday; it look AWESOME . I'm hopeful that these issues have been fixed that you guys have mention. i will double triple check. should look good when done. i also got the front buckets and the foams with the back rear bench top and bottom with front and back door panels. dark metallic blue with blue carpet. does the SEM come in that color and do i sand down the seat backs before paint? mine are rough can you buy them from someone new?

    johnny
     

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    Last edited: Sep 2, 2019
  13. JohnnyGS

    JohnnyGS Well-Known Member

    all holes lined up prefectly. all done front and back.
    looks great. i'm so happy with legendary interior.
    top notch
    seats are next
    johnny
     

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  14. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    Just did mine. Use drill. It’s tough job. I used rubber mallet on the 72 Stainless moulding with the tabs . Kinda gotta do one at a time. then back track a couple to fold down tabs. if that makes any sense. Ditto Legendary is the best.
     
  15. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    Just got my rear seat left and right upper Qtr. panels from legendary took months (4) Now i know why. You Guys all ordred interiors. They are Busy!
     

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