What is the level of difficulty installing a shift kit in a TH350? Which shift kit is recommended? Can it be installed without removing transmission? Any tips, tricks, etc.
I have not done it myself but asked several in the know and it seems that you have to remove the pan,valve body and the gaskets under it. Then theres some springs and balls that have to changed or relocated. New gaskets installed and then the valve body replaced with the pan and gasket. Might as well do a filter change while your in there. Its something I feel best left to a professional.
I am sure there are good instructions available for any kit somewhere on the web. I used the TCI trans go kit, but I had it installed when I rebuilt my TH400. I used the mild option (they gave 3 choices) and I don't think I would want a harder shift for a street set up. It is very quick. Just a thought.
Ive done several and its dirt simple... As long as the trans is out and upside down You do have to remove the valve body, but its not hard at all. Doing it on your back in the driveway is doable, but a messy PITA. The off-the-shelf B&M shift kit is cheap, works great, and has good instructions. The only trouble I got into once was someone put a TH350-C into an old car and the ''C'' trans takes its own kitou:
As a know-nothing teenager, I put my first B&M T-350 shift kit in my '71 GS. I've done, literally, about 50 of them when I was between 17-22. I used to do it for spending money as a poor college kid. This all from memory but if you can change your oil and replace the starter, you can do this. 1) It is messy without a trans pan with a drain plug - Tranny fluid will go everywhere and make a mess. It takes a lot of shampoo to get it out of 80s long hair. 2) It is messy (did I mention that?) - Once the car is up on jack stands, usually the front only but all 4 works too, start taking most of the pan bolts out. Leave at least one in the front and rear so it doesn't fall. Some cross members, the tubular ones, seem to be easier for me to drain. 3) Drain the pan - Use a big screwdriver or a pry bar to pop the pan loose from the bottom of the trans at the rear. Fluid will go every where but mostly out the back and hopefully into your drain pan. Once most of the fluid is out, take the remaining bolts out and watch out for the fluid in the pan. Still a good bit there. 4) Don't freak out about some residue in the pan - Clean the pan and set it aside to dry, lay the gasket out to flatten out after being folded up in a box. 5) Remove the filter, you should have bought a new one if you don't already have one 6) At this point you will want to follow the instructions in the kit. Basically, remove the valve body, the shifter pall, etc. Be aware that there are 4 balls on top of the plate that fit inside the case. The metal plate that covers part of the larger, thinner restricter plate will hold the plate and balls in place while you drop the valve body. 7) Check the valve body - Make sure the old gasket and metal plate are not stuck to the valve body or case. Some kits retain your old plate that you drill, some come with a new plate. All should come with new valve body gaskets. 8) Some kits have different options, take the path that best matches your choices, some require you to change springs, flip pistons, etc. Nothing hard. 9) Reinstall - Assemble the gaskets and plate on top of the valve body. Most kits will omit one ball. Place the balls on the plate with a small dab of grease to hold them in place while you put it back together, putting the thick metal plate back first that holds the restricter plate in place, then install the valve body. 10) The shifter "S" only goes one way. You might be able to install it two ways but test it before you button it up. You don't want to drain that pan twice in one day. 11) Put the detent and filter in, make sure everything else is good and put the pan and new gasket on. 12) Drop it off the jack stands, fill it with the minimum amount of fluid suggested. It should at least show full on the stick at a minimum before being started. 13) Start the car and with the parking brake on and/or foot firmly on the brake pedal, shift from reverse all the way down to low 1 and note that it engages. 14) Put it in park or neutral if chocked and check the fluid. Fill to at least the bottom fill mark while the car is running. Check for leaks. 15) Take an easy test drive to confirm shifting. On level ground top, motor still running, top off the fluid to the full level. 16) REAL ROAD TEST - See if that puppy will bark second. There's also loads of videos out there if you search youtube for some ideas about what is required. Hey, I found one that uses a Buick even though he's using a Chevy trans.[video]http://www.powerblocktv.com/two-minute-tech/2min-73/install-a-turbo-350-shift-kit[/video]
I've used both the Transgo and B&M shift kits. I think the B&M kit worked really well, and was less expensive. At the time, the Transgo was about $50, B&M was about $10. This was in the '80s, so my memory of the prices could be off a little. Either replacement is dirt simple, if you follow the instructions. If you don't like written instructions, the pictures are pretty good. I could get good second gear rubber out of my Vega panel truck with the B&M kit. Of course, I had a GT engine (bigger cam and progressive 2-barrel) and the performance (3.36) posi axle.
Yes, I have used ATI, B&M, Fairbanks, TransGo, Turbo Action and something I swear looked home-made that a guy brought me to install. Every single one of them would bark second if you had at least a 6cyl that would wind to 5000. The cheapest ones were the simplest and basically dropped a ball and drilled a hole or two out larger. I couldn't tell a difference between the high dollar ones that had you change the valve springs, accumulator spring removal and and extra mumbo jump and the cheapest ones. If I had T350 today, I'd put the cheapest one I could find in it and B&M seems to be one of the cheapest now.
Lots of bang for the buck with the B&M kit. I also put a TransGo kit in my '65 Malibu, and liked the performance. But it cost so much more and I didn't, like you say, see that much difference. My '66 Le Mans post car had a TransGo kit (400 THM) and it'd lay serious 11" stripes on upshift into 3rd, even. But then it also had a 400 engine with an Erson cam and headers, and a 3.56 posi.
I did a TH 350 for a friend many years ago. He and another friend stood around drinking beer, while I put the kit in. It was fairly simple since the trans was on his bench. He only asked me because I had previously rebuilt a 727 TorqueFlite, plus both Ford C4 and FMX transmissions. After we reinstalled the trans, the car sat in his garage for many years. I'm not sure if he ever drove it.
Transgo kit 350-1&2 Makes for nice firm, crisp,solid shifts, but not a violent slam. This was the most recomended on here when I was searching for mine. It was also stated that other shift kits just make the shift slam, from gear to gear. And some mentioned that other kits have tried to engage 2 gears a once. Well, I don't know about that, and I wasnt going to chance it, so Transgo for me. As you can see from that video link above, its not that hard, just doing it upside down. I have an aftermarket pan with a drain, so I drained it when it was Hot, let it sit over night, and put the kit in in the morning. Residual dripping of the trans wasn't too bad that way. I picked up a washing machine pan, to catch what my drain pan dosnt. Works slick for a few bucks at the home store. http://www.oatey.com/products/pans-and-stands/washing-machine-pans/washing-machine-pan
You guys have been great. Thanks for all the information. I can't wait to see if she will bark in second!
Well, I bit the bullet and purchased the B&M 30228 - B&M Transpak Kit. When installing the kit you have the option of two different stages: Stage-1 Heavy Duty or Stage-2 Hi-Performance Street. The car is not a daily driver. We take it out once a month or so and have fun with it. I am leaning toward stage 2 because it sounds like more fun! Actually, I will not be installing it. I am retired military. My occupation as paratrooper left me disabled. What I have left for a spine limits what I can do. My son, Mike will be installing it. He has acquired quit a skill set. He rebuilt (soup to nuts) the straight six in his Jeep when he was 16. He is 22 now. The original question concerning skill level installing a shift kit was because he was hesitant. But I knew he had the ability, so I posed the question here. He is much more confident after reading your posts.
As a 17 year old back then, Level 2 wasn't too much for me. Some will depend on the torque converter as you probably know. He'll do fine I'm sure.
Dawn worked about as well as anything to cut the trans oil. Brings back memories. I haven't laid in oil and soaked it in my hair in quite some time. This picture was 30 years ago when I still knew it all.
Well, we (Actually my son, Mike, installed it, I had the more important job. I was the tool fetcher) got the shift kit installed. Mike commented that the instructions were clear and detailed. We are pleased with the performance improvement. One more improvement we can check off our list of upgrades. Plus, good father and son time. I have to start saving now for gears and a posi.
