o No: I have heard that to move the battery to the trunk I would need to seal off the trunk from the inside of the car. Does this mean I have to put tin or aluminum behind back seat? If so how thick of stuff do I have to have? Tom
Tom, I've had my batteries in the trunk for about 5-6 years now, with no questions ever asked (besides for the track officials to look) As far as I know the only requirements are that you have a safety switch and that it (they) is (are) mounted securely. I have done nothing else to "insulate" the trunk from the passenger compartment, nor am I aware of any rule. Maybe there is a difference NHRA vs. IHRA, but not that I am aware of... -Bob Cunningham bobc@gnttype.org
I'm no expert by any means, but I was always under the impression that you only needed to "seal the trunk" if you installed a fuel cell back there. I've had many cars with batteries in the trunk and never had a question asked. (except for "where's my disconnect switch?") the first year they changed the rules. (1998-ish?)
I think the only requirement is that the battery be secured with at least 3/8" bolts, and as earlier mentioned a safety shutoff switch at the rear of the car.
NHRA Rule Book: Batteries may not be relocated into the drivers or passengers compartment. Rear firewall of .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminun (including package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024 inch steel box box, or .032 inch aluminum or NHRA accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside the body. Relocated battery must be fastened to frame or frame structure with minimum of two 3/8 inch diameter bolts. (no "J" hooks) Metal battery hold down straps maditory. Strapping tape prohibited. Hope this helps. Best advise for street car are those poly boxes sold at Summit or Jegs. And 3/8" bolts at local hardware store. Rick Martinez
I have another question, Can I use a constant duty solinoid [ford type] for a cut off switch? I would use a toggle switch mounted on the back of the car to kill the solinoid. Tom
I'm not sure about this Ford solenoid thing, the rules say it must be a "push off" switch, labeled "push off", and must shut the car off, killing fuel pumps and ignition, easier said then done, if not done right the car will run off of the alternator/generator. I wouldn't try and make something work, just buy the cut off switch from Jegs or Summit, that's what they're for, and not to expensive, it's always best to make the car "race legal" it just prevents you from redoing things, and less hastles when "teching in". Gary G
