I know I sound dumb but I cannot figure out how to get my front rotor off. I have a 72 Skylark Custom. The rims I had on my car were too heavy and snapped all of my studs off. I got the caliper off but I can't figure out the rotor. Somebody told me all I have to do is use a mallet to knock it off. It has two bolts behind it that go through a metal piece. ou: I am a little car illiterate so any help is appreciated. I just need to get a wheel back on the car so I can get it to a mechanic without having to get it towed with a 2x4 under my bumper. Thanks for any help you guys have for me
in the center there should be a cap (dust cap)...it snaps/pry off easily....then you have a kotter pin...a nut cap...than a nut and washer then the outer bearing...... take em all off.....and then a slight pull.... its all in the center of the rotor....(do not loosen them 2 bolts your talking about) heres a pic ....
I would take a second look at the rim. I doubt it was too heavy. Is it a stock rim or a wagon wheel? If the bolts were loose, that could snap the studs off. Sometimes the holes the bolts go through (in the rim) get egged out a bit (not round anymore). This can cause the bolts to loosen, and eventually snap. Get a Haynes or Chiltons manual, or be sure to come back here and ask for more help before you put the new rotor on. We'll be glad to step you through it, and that way you'll learn how to do it easily... I remember my first time replacing rotors, lol.
Wrong lug nuts I too am suspicious about the tire/wheel combination being 'too heavy'. I doubt you could get a combination in that fenderwell that would be too much for the car. I would make sure the type of lug nut you are using is correct for the wheel type - not all lugs nuts will work with all wheels. For example, a stock type (conical) nut works very poorly with a 'mag' type wheel. It will seem to tighten, but the surface that is in contact between the two is VERY small, which will often lead to the nut getting loose and the lug stud failing. Very dangerous situation. Yes, the extra $100 you have to spend on the right lugs nuts seems like a lot, but...
Rotor removal... No, no, no...the rotor is held on by two screws which is located under the distributor cap! :Smarty:
everybody with a serious reply, thank you, especially rex362. i think i can figure it out from your description. and bout the rim being too heavy, I had them on a cadillac and they snapped two of the studs. then it happened to the buick but sheared off all 5 of them, then it happened to the guy i sold them to on a Chevy. He wasn't as lucky, it came sheared them all off on the freeway. nobody told me they were too heavy, that is just what i figured, doesn't really matter to me anymore because i don't have them anymore. spinners got corny to me. here is the rim, the american racing wheels i have on the Skylark now feel like feathers compared to these 20s... http://superbuytires.com/wheels/model/Omega/Zab+II/ Thanks again
Pretty much goes back the same way. Just dont tighten the castle nut too much. You want to get it snug, but not tight. I do it by "feel". Should be tight enough to take any play out of the bearings. The rotor should spin without any major drag or roughness. make sure you use a NEW cottor pin. Size is 1/8".
ok great...just pay attention when you tighten that bolt up...you dont want it tight and you dont want it lose...also should of greased up them bearings since they were off... btw...forget them bling bling rims.. KEEP IT REAL !! keep it original....old school
i just bought a rotor but i cant get all of the bearings out of the old one. i got the 2 small pieces out but cant get the 2 larger pieces out (the piece towards the back side of the rotor), any ideas? and don't worry about the rims, im over that look
ok....I kind of knew you were gonna ask that one.... :grin: take an extension from your rachete set or a chisel/screwdriver wrap a rag on the tip...and insert it from the other side and give the bearing a few taps/whacks from the inside... ..the bearing should push the seal out as well.... even use the handle from the hammer if it fits....just dont put any knicks on the bearing......basicly you pushing it out from behind...its easy. good time 2 grease them bearings...then clean the area of grease on the spindle and the races that the bearings ride on...you dont need alot of grease...just in the bearing.... the look is just a phase....old school is best ..especialy with our classics :TU: where you located ....maybe we open up a brake shop me and you... o No:...you would be good candidate only bcs you ask when ya dont know...those that dont ask when they dont know end up using big f'n hammer on things.... :laugh: :laugh:
thanks man, ive been hitting refresh waiting for a reply, ill give it a try, i'm from the bay area, CA. got about 45 minutes of light left, thanks again, im sure ill ask you something in about 45 ou:
no problem ...ask away....I'm here another 2 hrs....at work still ou: chime in about greasing the bearings ....unless your gonna drive 2 shop or whatever ....make sure you/they grease em properly btw......45 minutes? dont worry....we can do the rear brakes also in that time :Brow: :TU:
when i tapped the bearing and seal out i couldnt tell which way the bearing was facing before it got tapped out. i believe the bigger end was facing out toward the back, right??? grease properly? how about just put a lot of grease on them?
it only fits one way on its race(that shiny smooth part of the rotor is the race)......the wider part of bearing on the outside... grease is not important on the outside of bearing as one might think...its the inside of the bearing that needs the grease...inbetween the rollers and all... puts some grease on palm of hand ..size of a golf bal and a bit more...take the bearing and scrape it on your greased palm ..the larger side...till you see grease come out of the smaller side....then put a bit on the outside and on the race..
Here's my little trick to removing the rear bearing and grease seal all in one shot.... When your removing the rotor, you took the nut off, then the washer. After you took the washer off, the small bearing came out right? Ok, after the small bearing comes out, take the nut and screw it back on the threads a few turns. Now take the rotor and remove it, puilling it towards you. The nut will catch the bearing and seal when you pull, leaving the bearing and seal hanging on the spindle. Clear as mud? Here is a pre emptive answer to another question your going to have when you put the brakes back together... The caliper and brake pads are probably not going to fit back on because the new rotor is more than likely thicker than the rotor you removed. Your going to have to retract the caliper piston slightly to fit the caliper/pad assembly back over the rotor. You can use a big C-clamp for this. Once you put everything back together, MAKE SURE YOU PUMP THE PEDAL PROIR TO STARTING THE CAR. Make sure you have a brake pedal. OK...get to it!
ROTFLMAO :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: When you pack the bearings with grease, make sure they are totally full of grease. When you have the castle-nut tightened, grab the rotor and try to rock it (towards and away from the engine) to make sure it's tight enough and not wobbling. Be sure to bend the cotter pin correctly so it doesn't work it's way out of the hole it is in. If it does, the castle-nut will loosen, and screw up your rotor (and the wheel might come off in the process). Also, if there is coating on the rotors (to keep it from rusting while it's in the warehouse), make sure to remove it... I didn't the first time, and it took a while before the brakes actually slowed the car. Since you are putting a new rotor on, why not new bearings? If you can afford it. They aren't too expensive.
