Need intake words of wisdom please

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by Storm1, May 7, 2018.

  1. Storm1

    Storm1 Silver Level contributor

    So, I had some leakage from the back of my stock intake manifold. Everything is now off.
    Before I laid towels and plugged holes before scraping:


    I have a hot tank at work, so I'm putting the intake in there overnight. Hopefully tomorrow morning all Ill have to do is wipe it down, let it dry out, and paint.

    First question, I plan on using DupliColor DE1653 red is that ok?

    I ordered the felpro valley gasket it comes with rtv and rubber.

    What's the deal with the rubber seals on the front and back? Do those get rtv on top and bottom?

    What is everyone else doing?

    Any intake manifold re-assembly words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
    I really don't want to do this again.

  2. Dwayne B

    Dwayne B Well-Known Member

    I don't use the end rubber gaskets,I use RTV.Set the intake on motor with out any gasket, and look at the space between intake ,motor that will show you how much RTV to use.
  3. Philip66

    Philip66 Well-Known Member

    I used the Dupli-Color DE1653 Engine Enamel with Ceramic recently and I love it!!

    It's a nice deep, rich, Buick-Looking Red. Leaves a perfect sheen too. I followed the directions on the can and it worked out great! Spray 2 light dust coats and then finish with a heavier "wet" coat. Almost exactly matched the new TA aluminum valve covers I just put on.

    Your results may vary...
    BeatersRus and MDBuick68 like this.
  4. buick64203

    buick64203 Just plum crazy Staff Member

    There are two camps- the "throw the end rails out and use RTV" crowd, and the "use the end rails" crowd. I don't think either way is wrong. Personally, I use them and never had an issue. If you do use them, put a blop on each of the 4 corners
  5. Philip66

    Philip66 Well-Known Member

    "Blop" Is that a combination of a "blob" and a "plop" ?
    Or maybe it's a juxtaposition of a "glob" and "goop" ...

    Or is that a highly technical term reserved for those measuring the wind speed of
    an unladen swallow? You know, after it blops on your windshield it is now unladen thereby generating more speed??

    Sorry, I couldn't resist!
    Last edited: May 8, 2018
    BeatersRus likes this.
  6. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise 1000+HP

    Actually, as a professional Buick engine builder, I will say the proper term is "smidge" of sealer in the corners. :):p

    I go both ways on the rubber seal, all stock, all iron motors, I use it on, aftermarket heads, alum intakes ect, usually not, depending on the gap at the rear.. the stock seal is designed to seal a .200-.220 gap effectively. If it is a a lot less than that, due to block or intake milling, then I will just use a bead of "The right stuff".

    This is the ONLY sealer to use on the end rails. The only use I have for Black RTV is to weigh the tube down, so i does not blow away.

    In the case of the original poster, I would put that motor back together with the ends seals, make sure the dowel pins are still in place, and make sure the holes in the other side (opposite the dowel pin in the end rails) are open.

    Put sealer on only the top side of the rubber seal, at the corners. Putting and type of form a gasket sealer on any type of gasket or seal, often causes the gasket/seal to slip out of postion during tightening.

    For extra insurance, after it is all tigtened up, you can just use your finger and put a "dab" (another technical term :D) of sealer over the outside of the joint, at the seam with the head, on all 4 corners.

    Use just a light film of the same sealer around the 4 water holes between the head and intake (2 on each side).

    BeatersRus likes this.
  7. buick64203

    buick64203 Just plum crazy Staff Member

    Phillip, you didn't mention if it was an African or European swallow?

    I looked on my conversion chart and a small blop equals a dab. I would say not to get too mired down in all this technical jargon.
    Philip66 likes this.
  8. Mart

    Mart '71 350 GS, almost stock

    Did you drain block antifreeze before removing intake? You should drain your oil if some rolled down into pan?
  9. woody1640

    woody1640 Well-Known Member

    ANYTIME we remove an intake manifold, we automatically change the oil & filter.

    Even if you drained all the antifreeze out before removing it, their is still some that will end up in the oil pan.

  10. Storm1

    Storm1 Silver Level contributor

    I didn't do that.

    I also (after i put rags across the valley to catch any debris) used a can of brake clean and a razor to scrape the machined surfaces clean under the gasket, then i carefully removed the rags and put new clean ones in. So I'm sure some of that brake clean made it into the oil.

    I'll be changing the oil for sure. Is there anything else I need to do?
  11. Storm1

    Storm1 Silver Level contributor

    Thank you Jim.

    Its original stock iron motor. The pins are in place and the other holes are open. I will use the end seals.

    Are you saying to use 'the right stuff' only on the end seals or for the whole valley gasket?
  12. Storm1

    Storm1 Silver Level contributor

    DupliColor DE1653


  13. Mart

    Mart '71 350 GS, almost stock

    Looks good! I use the same paint. It darkens some closer to a Buick red after a while.
    Sealer on end rail seal ends, thin film on top & bottom around water ports of valley pan.
  14. Storm1

    Storm1 Silver Level contributor

    Everything went back together well. The only thing I broke was the L shape vacuum hose for the trans modulator it was old and crusty.

    Used 'the right stuff' on the front and back rubber seals in the corners, changed out the oil.

    It fired right up but blew a lot of smoke for a good minute. Sounded like it was misfiring. Checked the firing order and it was good. Started back up, no smoke, no miss.

    Sure does look a LOT better! Thanks for all the advice everyone!


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