Those look just like mine from speedway good thing you got the better ball joints because they come with junk. You might want to make sure they'll work with stock height spindles because I think they are meant for tall spindles like speedway sells. I have them installed with those tall spindles and I can't see how they would work with a short spindle. If you compare them to your stock ones you'll see they are much flatter.
I'm looking if this works out since I'm interested in doing the same thing on my car. May I ask what brand these are? I've looked at the more expensive one such as umi, Global West, and Hotchkis, and some of cheaper ones like from Jegs.
If they are the ones I have they do say they can work with stock hardware but they also say they work with tall spindles and anybody that understands A body suspension geometry can tell you they can't do both. Just trying to keep someone from making a mistake. Companies like sc&c make fully adjustable uppers for around 300$.
These were ebay specials. They look sturdy, feel solid and I'm swapping the ball joints any way so I don't worry about that. They should provide enough adjustment to get to +5 caster, -1 camber to correct the steering angles, just like my 70. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131355907666?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT The longer ball joint will alleviate some of what sodak65 fears. I've have similar uppers on my 70 for several years and no issues. I had the SC&C adjustable arms and Howe tall ball joints on my stock spindles but I didn't like how they hit the frame and had no droop stop. I didn't like how the SC&C arms only worked well with longer spindles, which causes a whole host of other issues and frankenstein parts.
Well I feel bad I didn't even notice the "tall ball joint" part of your post I'm going to blame the small text on my phone :shock: sorry for the rant!
cool, let us know how they work out. I'm doing a ls1 brake setup with tall lowers right now, waiting to figure out the uppers. Is that the .5" or .9" upper?
I just went with the .5 uppers. It works so well on the 70 that I didn't want to mess it up on the 71.
Any updates on how the car rides? I've got my suspension pulled, so I can put on LS1 brakes and clean up the frame.
I'm still looking for some 15" wheels. I refuse to buy new 14" tires! The only alignment so far is the eye-ball job I did to get it on the road. It handles well, much better than before but I don't know the specs. It tracks straight and I don't care what happens to these 14" tires so I'm not worried for now. I'll get a set at the GS Nats if there are some available. As far as the tubular upper A-arms and tall ball joints go, it works exactly like my 70 that I did a few years ago, which is great. Knock the factory frame mounted droop stop off and use the included A-arm mounted urethane one. I put the same shim stacks back in and it definitely has a lot more positive caster and camber looks close to 0. I've heard you can move shims from front to back to change caster without affecting camber much. I'm tempted to tell them to give me as much positive caster as they can as long as it matches side to side. I left the factory sway bar on but changed out to urethane end link bushings until I can scrounge up a T/A front bar. I also swapped the standard drums for front discs and I know the rear discs I have my eye on won't work with 14" rims and barely work with Buick 15" rims unless you get creative. I'm probably going to swap the 15"s off the 70 onto the 71 so I can get it aligned and try it out.
Greg, those look like the same arms I put on my 65 gs. I changed uppers and lowers and converted to disc brakes also. Had my steering box upgraded by Chip at power steering services also. Was wondering if you changed the lowers also if your steering arms are hitting the lower control arm. Mine are when turning full left or right and not sure what to do. Bob
I did lowers on my 70 car and the stop at the back of the steering arm is hitting the lower control arm. I believe it is supposed to though it is hard on the powder coat. :af: On the 71 I did not change the lowers as the tubulars are heavier and have no impact on geometry beyond stiffer bushings. I did swap in new lower ball joints as the old ones were toast. I still might at some point but I'm doing low buck on the 71 350 car. Hopefully, it will handle as well as the more invasive 70 mods with less money. I plan on doing a quick ratio steering box and rear discs in the future but it is so much better when the tires bite even with the one-finger box.
That's what I thought that it was supposed to hit. I took 5/8 heater hose and slid up on the arm and glued it on. Don't know how long it will last but it will be easier on the powder coat for a while. Bob
How do you like the ride bob? Any harshness from the delrin bushings? How does the quality look? At $270 plus $100 for tall ball joints im tempted to get upper arms from umi with the .5" ball joints already and just reuse my stock lowers with $30 worth of bushings.
I discovered something about these inexpensive arms this weekend after my car was sitting on jack stands, drooping the wheels for a full week. The upper control arm bumpers disintegrated and fell out when I put the car back on the ground. No biggie, I'll just put the rubber ones back in some time in the next week or so. Funny thing is I couldn't figure out what the red crap under my car was. LOL It took me a few minutes of staring at it to realize where it came from.
