Hi guys: It seems that from the input I have received that no hop bars a thing of the past and adjustabe upper control arms are the way to go??????????? When folks talk about no hops lifting the car is that the rear or front of car that is lifting? I guess the reason I lean toward no hops is that I have already purchased Edlebrock no hops and cannot return them. I guess it would not be the first part that goes on the shelf as a bad purchase.Ken
The idea behind the no-hop bar is to relocate the mounting point of the upper control arm. This changes the instant center of the chassis setup and transfers more load to the drive tires. Used in conjunction with adjustable upper control arms to properly set pinion angle they can be extremely effective in a stock chassis situation. Check out Dick Miller's book "Need More Bite?" It is available from Dick Miller Racing www.dickmillerracing.com telephone (901) 794-2834 Memphis Tennessee It is well worth the $10 because it simply and effectively explains how your rear suspension works and how to make it work better. Good Luck!-------Mark Dalquist
I have the edelbrock no hop bars on my car (its the one non stock mod to the suspension) and it made a difference for sure in how the car hooks. Worth 2/10ths on the 6o foot time on street tires, doesn't seem to be any downsides....make sure to check pinion angle after install. later Tim
pinion angle I'm not a chassis expert by any means so you may want to do further reaserch on this. As I understand it, the more flex you have in your suspension, the more negative pinion angle you need to compensate for in. By negative pinion angle, I mean that the pinion yoke centerline is pointing down in reference to the transmission yoke centerline. In a car with stock rubber bushings and control arms, you may want a pinion angle as much as -5 degrees, or at least, -4 degrees. As you apply power the differential wants to wrap upwards and your stock rubber bushings, control arms, and frame all deflect, leaving you with an effective angle of -1 to 0. In a car with urethane bushings and stronger control arms you may want -3 degrees or so because there is less deflection in the suspension components. In a car with solid bushings (or rod ends) and a reinforced frame, you may want -2 degrees or as little as -1 degree. If anyone else has any input I would like to hear it because as I stated before, I am not any kind of an expert and I would sure like to know more. Thanks----------Mark D.
suspension? Mark: I am going to order Dick Millers book tommorrow and read up on suspensions for our buicks. I think all my questions have been answered by our club members. The main ideas is to try it and see if you like it. thanks. Ken :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:
Hi Guys, Here's an excellent article concerning pinion angles written by our own Ron Rygelski ("rlracing" here on the V8 board). Illustrations are also provided. http://www.buickperformance.com/Pinion.htm Hope this helps....:TU:
12 bolt housing 10 bolt ring gear i have in my 72 parts car one of the odd rear ends are these true 12 bolt housing and could i swap in 12 bolt parts. thanks TODD
Re: 12 bolt housing 10 bolt ring gear Do you mean "Olds" rear? If so, nothing swaps between those and anything else.
