I would like to try my hand at port matching the heads/intake on my 462. The heads are '72 castings, and the intake is a '76. The heads are much nicer than the intake, but both could stand a bit of cleanup work. What is the best way to mark on the heads and intake where to remove material? I set my valley pan gasket in place and I can see where to remove material from the heads, it looks like I could just scribe marks with the valley pan in place then port out to those lines. The problem is with the intake, I'm not sure how to mark it so I know how much material to remove. Any suggestions here? Also, what abrasives are recommended for this? I have a very large industrial supply house near where I live (MSC) and can readily get whatever abrasives I need. Thanks!!!
I would use a regular intake gasket for reference on how much to take off. Just use the same gasket for the head and intake to make sure you'll have a perfectly matched port when put together. If I remember right you will want to make the intake port a little smaller than the cylinder port to keep turbulance from happening.
A carbide burr is the gest way to remove material. A stone could also work but is slower. One thing to consider, if all you are going to do is gasket match and do nothing in the bowls, you are basically wasting your time, The port opening is not a restriction in an otherwise stock head. Jim Burek
Yeah, how do you locate the gasket on the intake? What's the reference point? It's been awhile since I've pulled my heads, I forget where the pins are...o No:
Re: Re: Novice Port Matching...... I concur!!!! Don't do it unless you want to kill the velocity of the airflow and possibly ruin a set of heads. Leave the port matching to the magazine readers.:Smarty:
Port matching vs gasket matching: Even with bowl work, grinding the ports out to match the gasket size might give you a port that's not optimal for street use. Just depends on how much horsepower the engine is realistically expected to cough up. Relocating gaskets consistently: You can use the drill bit technique (4 small drill bits, same size) to locate the gasket consistently. Mock up engine assembly with gaskets in place (torque bolts to factory specs). Drill through intake, gasket, and into cylinder head (don't drill into water jacket areas, or combustion chamber), use two drill bits per cylinder head. Now you can locate the gasket to the intake once you disassemble the engine. Forgot where the best place is to drill into the cylinder head, it's been too long since I've done that. ou: There are probably other ways of doing the same thing, but that's the only one I've used with the factory steel intake gaskets
