Here is a question for the real mechanics out there. I have a 64 Wildcat that I want to eventually swap a posi rear into. I bought the car so that I could learn as I do the work myself. Is swapping the rear something I should tackle as a first timer, granted, I will have rescue if I really need to call for it. I have a nice big garage and I can take my time if I must. I just have never done this before and I want to make sure I don't bite off too much at one time. Beside that, does anyone know of a direct swap from stock to posi for my car? Will all full size GM rears swap in and which one would you guys recommend? The car will never be a racer but I plan on making it into one of those unique tire burning boats.- Thanks
Hey Kevin, Glad to see you made it over! Now... Rule 1 of "rear ends" is: If you aren't a professional, DO NOT attempt to open the case and make any changes or adjustments. You'll be walking home in a few miles. Now, There were a lot of posi units put under the large cars back then. I believe the Electra and LeSabre rears will swap in (but it pays to take measurements first. Measure from the inside of one of the backing plates to the other. The backing plate is the plate on the inside of the brake drum. Also, measure to where the mounting brackets for the suspension are. Swapping a rear is really a simple procedure. It is just a matter of unbolting one, and bolting in the other. You must be sure to remove the brake lines from the brake cylinders in the brake drums, and from any attaching points on the rear itself. And remove the parking brake cable too. Be sure to support the car high on jack stands. Put a floor jack under the pumpkin. Then remove the shocks and the bolts that connect the control arms to the rear. My era Riv has an upper control arm that is very adjustable for pinion angle. So if yours is the same way, be sure to use the same holes in the new rear. Then hook it back up, bleed the brakes and go. Now is the time to replace the shocks and springs. The rear springs should only be about $80 a pair. Dirt cheap to update the sagging old ones. Just take your time. Get a GM Shop Manual! You'll find it shows how to do everything you need to do. And the drawings are very good. Bag all the nuts and bolts you remove in zipper baggies, and label each with a sharpie. Clean each one with a wire wheel too before putting them back on. You may need to soak every bolt for a day or two in penetrating oil. Clean and paint the rear and control arms before putting them back. In fact, you should do this with every part you remove from now on. You'll be amazed at how nice things look with some mineral spirits and degreaser, and a spray can of paint.
Sounds good to me! I already decided never to open the rear and mess with the gears. That is way out of my farm league knowledge. From what you have told me, I am confident that I will be able to tackle this job, slow and easy. I will save the swap for the winter because the stock rear is in good order now and I want to enjoy the driving this summer. I'll take the summer to figure out which rear to pick up and determine how to pick a unit is good shape. Thanks for the info, and thanks again for the 455 info you sent me as well.
