Oil pump set up gasket assistance

Ok, so I have read Larry's post https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/oil-pump-clearances-and-oil-pressure.326597/
and the TA instructions that came with their pump gear set, booster plate and shim kit, and need some advice.

The measurement from the top of the gears to the cover are .003 as in the first pic.

The instructions say to add .004 to the top measurement and total that and add the correct gasket/shim gaskets between the booster plate and timing cover.

A - Based on the above, my measurement is .007, correct?

B- Based on what is in the shim kit, I would need to use the paper .005 and then mylar .002 gaskets, correct?

C- if yes to the above, does it matter what order the paper and mylar gaskets go?

D - oh and shim kit says to get to .002 end clearance with gaskets but other instructions say to get to .004 if using booster plate.. what would you do? Would you split the difference and use the .005 and then .001 to get to a .003 end clearance or do the gaskets get compressed when tightening.and stick with the .004 before tightening?

Am I missing anything?

Thanks

 

I don't know the answer to your question, but I'm sure listening and waiting for one.

 

I do it totally differently....I get it close then reduce gasket thickness until gears just bind then add .002. The oil pump shaft must turn freely. I have done it the "recommended" way and ended up with binding due to gasket crush. Have to take it apart a few times but works for me....

I started doing it this way years ago when I got a complete "blueprinted" timing cover/oil pump assembly from a vendor no longer in business. The oil pump shaft wouldn't turn so I called them and they said run it and it will make it's own clearance. Say what???

 

Agreed w/above. And if I remember right (it's been a while) the order of mylar spacer vs composite gasket doesn't matter.

Devon

 

If there is binding, magic marker the gear sides and see where it's rubbing. You may need to lightly stone off a burr or upset on flange of either cover, or cover housing.
I'll even slide sides of gears on 600 grit paper(over glass or granite) to ensure no burrs.

 

Good call...I actually take the time to lightly stone all the gear edges. Probably overkill, but I've found some minor burrs at times.

Devon

 

Yep, you can even flip flop gears or gearsets to find the smoothest combo when turning by hand.
Hand matched is like a worked gun trigger....

 

I wonder why they are no longer in business?

 

Thanks guys, I'll take another look at it in a day or so.

 

Also you can use just the Mylar shims with no paper gasket, that what I’ve always done, it does not leak.

 

Ok, used the .005 paper gasket only. In theory that should have given me .002 clearance. It wouldn't spin at all. Then tried adding the the
.001 mylar gaskets with the .005 paper gasket and it spun a little and stopped, was rubbing.....Then tried adding the .002 mylar gasket which would give me a total of .007 gasket thickness or the .003 I needed from gear to cover surface and the .004 from TA's instructions that said to add when using the booster plate and it spun freely. (However, if my measurements were correct this would give me a .004 end clearance...., but this is what TA says to do). Then noticed there was a 1.5 mylar gasket, tried that and it spins with no binding... end result is the .005 paper gasket and .0015 mylar giving me .0065 total gasket... or 3.5 end clearance if my measurements were correct... It won't spin with anything less so I guess I am slightly less than TA's recommendation but slightly more than the .002/.003 recommended clearance....

I guess I'll have to run with it and will update the group after the motor running come summertime.

Thanks all!

 

Yes, don’t get caught up in numbers/figures, as long as the gears spin freely and there’s MINIMAL up and down movement your good.

 

Advice from a trusted source with a great deal of experience with BBBs. Don't over think it.

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