Forgive my ignorance— but when a guy changes out his factory 14” rallyes and puts larger wheels on (lets say some 18’s) and obviously the larger tire that goes with them, all of a sudden when trying to really burn out it isn’t possible anymore. Instead the skylark just grips the ground and moves. Unlike when I have rallyes on, it really chirps and smokes and you can do a burn out. So I guess I am just curious on peoples opinions on if it’s an upgrade or not. The 18”s are a lot heavier versus the 14”s. You can feel the amount of grip, it is quite substantial, so carving around corners is a lot easier. But from a stop and just mashing there is no burnout you just go, which can be a good thing obviously, so maybe it’s the feeling of not burning out that makes you feel like the car has a less power? Perhaps it’s just another one of the trade offs you have when changing out factory parts.
I’m not an expert because my car still has 14 inch rally wheels with 60 series tires on it. My buddy has a JW built engine in his 70 GS, along with 18 inch tires and rims and he burns out effortlessly. In fact, how far do you wanna burnout? Maybe the car you’re referencing doesn’t have enough power? Just saying
I do believe it’s a combination of both my stock 2.7 gear ratio and factory 68’ 350 thats on it last legs. I might have to dial in some timing too. But yeah regardless just interested in peoples opinions. Thanks
Adding weight (especially unsprung weight) is almost never an upgrade. Shorter sidewalls will flex less and, up to a point, that can improve handling and give more road feel. A wider footprint, again up to a point, will improve traction (cornering and accelerating). Another thing that may be in play here is the actual rubber-if your 14s are all season tires, and old, they’re likely pretty hard. If your new tires are summer (or just ‘new’) they’re likely stickier. Mods: I guess it boils down to what you want. If all you want is burnouts, put some junkyard 215/75s on your 14s. If you want it to hook in a straight line, put slicks or drag radials on your 14s or 15s. If you want cornering, probably go with lightweight 17” wheels and 50 series rubber. Any mods also will be a lot better with chassis and suspension work-at least replace anything worn. That said, if it’ll turn 14s and not 18s, either your 14” tires are stones or your 18s are getting serious traction due to the tire or the weight. Patrick
Heavier wheels will cost you power. If you could barely do a burnout with a lighter wheel, the heavier wheel might take that capability away.
It definitely feels like serious traction, the tires are brand new, handling/cornering is immaculate combined with all the suspension parts replaced and upgraded. Accelerating the car just grips and goes, but no burning out. The old 14’s radials are in OKAY shape, but they just spin. One of the noticeable cons is I feel a lot more of the road with the 18’s, combined with poly bushings rough roads are not fun, but when the road is smooth the car just glides effortlessly. Compared to original rubber bushings and 14 with radials it felt like driving a soft cloud. All interesting, just were curious on the reasons and pros and cons/trade offs of running different sized wheel tire combinations. Thanks all for the reply’s
