It's been ten years, and I finally got to a point where I could tackle a 5-speed swap. But then I tore my engine apart because it was burning oil. I've bought and read the books, looked through the catalogues, read many threads, and watched countless videos. And I still need help. I'm on a budget and can't decide on what I need. Here's where we're at: Engine: -1976 Buick 350 bought rebuilt 10 years ago. ---.030" over 8.5:1 pistons. ---currently doing the popular oil volume mods, already have an adjustable pump. ---adjustable pushrods. ---Heads are stock and need to be refreshed. ------They do have improved springs (apparently) from the "original" .268 Comp Cams setup. ------The torn valve stem seal on piston #8 appears to be where the burning oil came from. ---The Comp camshaft lost 3 lobes on the driver's side. Pistons #1 & #5 ---My 284-88H cam suffered a non-spinning lifter on the driver's side. Piston #3 -TA Stage 1 intake ---1/2" spacer ---Holley 600 w/vac secondaries & electric choke -Craigslist A-body headers, unknown make. -HR Parts engine mounts Trans: 1994 Camaro V6 T5WC which I have recently rebuilt -Billet cluster gear bearing support plate -Wishful thinking -3.75 1st, 2.19 2nd, 1.41 3rd, 1.00 4th, 0.72 OD -Historically these things have been rated at 300ft-lbs capacity ---This will be paired with a 3.73:1 final and a 26" tire. The T5 has not been installed before. The previous trans was a 200-4R with a TransGo shift kit and a PATC 2500 stall converter. Numbers for this setup were 216rwhp on a Mustang Dyno and a 9.86 1/8 mile ET @71.7 mph on summer tires. Here's what we'd like: -Reliability ---I don't trailer this car to races. As a matter of fact, I'd like to still travel with it. Some autocross events I attend are half a state away. I don't have to kick butt when I get there, but I would like to go anywhere, have fun, and get home. The car will see some sustained g-forces, but will also see stop-and-go traffic. -More Power ---I'd like to safely get as much power as I can out of pump gas. -To not completely wipe out my savings account ---The highest possible number on cost that I've considered so far is 10k, with 3k of that going to a better transmission (e.g. Tremec TKX). And on my lower income I'm not super comfortable spending that much. Here's what we need to learn about: 1a. Considering my bad luck with flat tappets, can I run a street/strip roller setup without having to worry about reinforcing the lifter bores? 1b. Should I save $1,100 and give flat tappets one more go with due diligence and dual grooved cam bearings? 2a. Are off-the-shelf TA aluminum heads paired with TA 10:1 pistons going to put me at risk of pinging/detonation? 2b. Are TA aluminum heads truly compatible with stamped rockers or do I really need to also buy Chevy rockers due to the offset exhaust valves? 3. Is 400 horsepower (at the crank) an okay number to shoot for considering my car's intended purpose? (street/strip/travel) With good heads, higher compression, and a serious cam, I feel like this number could be achieved, but at what cost? 4. As attracted as I am to the newer heads (which are the best option with my location and time constraints), if I sadly don't spring for them or cut costs elsewhere like keeping the 8.5:1 pistons, I would still like to use the best cam possible. And if I use a roller then I have no idea what grind to use. So are cam grinds all based on knowing your cfm? I know this one is very complex, so a point to a good article would be fine. Thank you for reading, and I apologize for such a dubious request. At the end of the day, I'm most attached to having a 5-speed Buick Regal, but for all of the stress and effort of this rebuild so far I would hate to feel like I made the wrong choices with the engine torn down. This may be the last time it ever happens, so I want to get it right and feel good about it.
I chose the silvolite pistons that were recommended here for higher compression. Seemed a lot of bang for the buck.
The Hp is in the heads! You can’t call TA and ask them but the last I heard they don’t have any ready to sell as they need to find a machinist to hire. A few people have been waiting 2 years for TA heads so you may not get them in a timely fashion. If you can’t get the TA heads then look into finding a pro to port your iron heads. for the cam look to Scotty brown to grind you a custom. No need to read a bunch or articles, simply give him your specs and allow him to sort out your cam specs. 350 Hp is a more achievable number with iron heads, 430 HP is attainable with the alum Heads. Shoot for 10:1 static with iron or 11:1 with alum heads.
I can't offer a ton of advice on what to do or what not to do. But I do think your carb is a little small for a .030 over 350 and dual plane intake. my current build is similar to your old Build. I'm even running one of the same camshafts (the 284-88h.) I'm curious if you liked that cam and what kind of low end performance you had with it? And what rear gears are you running?
Mild to wild, what do you want and can afford? You can add compression, stroke, bore, etc, and lots of goodies.
I liked the cam. It's been years, but I believe it had better performance than the Comp 268H. Hard to say since the 284-88H got installed with the TA Stage 1 intake at the same time. I used the same 3.73:1 gears for both combos, with my trusty 600 Holley. Great idle at any temp. Punchy and very responsive down low, never stumbled, but almost nothing up top. I was probably over-revving it between 5500 and 6000, but you sure could feel the difference in the seat once you upshift and the rpm dropped. I don't think my combo liked spinning that fast, but the valves didn't float. I wish I had something more concrete to share in terms of performance for you.
It would help best if I knew how much of my budget was going not just to mods, but supporting mods for those mods that I don't realize I really need. Like having to install a lifter bore girdle for a roller cam, or needing a new set of rockers for the heads. On your application, did you reinforce your lifter bores for that roller cam? I know it's a concern for the Pontiac crowd, and the Max Performance Buick Engines book stresses the point more than once.
Mine is not. I don't know of anyone that reinforced lifter bores swapping to a roller setup. Maybe Sean has on the secret eng he's been working on.
1a,..yes 1b,..yes I wouldn't waste money on the roller,..not available anyway rite now 2a,..no not at all,..I would set static compression at 11.1 2b,...the slight offset isn't much to worry about,..but rollers are always a good thing 3,..if I bought aluminum heads and had 11.1 and didn't make 425hp I would throw it in a lake 4,...stock 350 heads and 8.5 to 1 isn't gonna net you a satisfactory result,...no matter the cam selected,..I wouldn't even consider that path,...i hate to say it but I would use a sbc and build you a nice Buick 350 as it will take time,..then sell the sbc and get it back all buick
Ported/big valve iron heads (not the '76 ones & of course alum. if you can but budget buster IMHO) TA DP intake (maybe SP?) 10.5 cast or hyperutectic pistons (cut heads to achieve CR). Maybe coating of pistons Scotty Brown cam (or KB C118 grind from Steve Long Racing Cams if he's still making them - Install lifters dry & rotate. Per @Fox's Den this can further be optimized by swapping lifters around Stock rockers/pushrods (may need earlier/shorter to compensate for cutting heads) Offset grind crank to take advantage of the taller '76 deck height (not sure how much) & get close to zero deck height Deck (minimally)/square Cap screw rods (may not be necessary but you probably already have - shot peen/polish) Hooker Headers Balance Keep it simple. Just my 2 cents but I've done most of this & built a very good running 350 back before we had much to work with.
I'm running a 600 cfm too but I'm using the sp3 single plane. I'm happy with the throttle response and idle characteristics as well. TA website would have you believe that the sp3 is more of a hybrid and that you don't lose bottom end power. Their description actually says that it will out perform the dual plane across the whole rpm range. Bump up compression and run the sp3.
I can’t see going to a roller cam without using the roller rockers as well. There are no lifter bore girdles for the 350. I would use a flat tappet cam.
1st thing would be to buy a set of those painted Hooker long tube 1-3/4" headers while they're still on sale for $403.... If they will fit your Regal?
Buy those headers before it goes away. I would run a 750 carb for max power and I liked that KB 118 back when KB was around good choice
As Hugger said, shoot for a TRUE 11.1 comp. ratio, 350’s respond well to compression or boost. Do your iron heads, aluminum’s are a wait. Too bad roller cams aren’t available, I’d recommend one. SP3 intake and 850 double pumper. A JW 9.5” converter, call to find out what stall he recommends with your intended combo.
If this is a budget build, look at uem 1734 pistons from summit racing. Flat top 3.0 silvolite . That and mill block .010-.020. Will net up around 9.6 - 10.0 to 1 depending on final measurements. Spend the money on heads. Porting with big valves. Then go with the 413 cam. Check valve clearance. sounds like your problem with cams is break in. Coat cam with lube, and get a high quality zzdp oil like Brad Penn. you will want new valve springs . This should be pretty fun. If cam is too much then send it to me and I will give you my ta 310. Been broken in. But waiting on bumpers to be chrome. And some other finish up stuff.
Thanks a whole lot, everyone! Happy to hear that flat tappet is still trusted, and I feel confident that I can get it right this time. Bummer to hear about availability on the roller stuff and the aluminum heads, but that's actually gonna save me almost 4k when it's all said and done. And I'm already set on investing that elsewhere in the car. (New steering box, steering wheel, better trans, etc.) I'd be more interested in getting the heads ported if there were any Buick specialists in my area, or if I had a second set. But I feel like shipping and parts could add up enough to make me hold out for the aluminum heads. SO, I guess the new question is: Do I want to still get higher compression pistons before I get the engine balanced, which is now fast approaching? I'm tempted to put that money into the trans now, and the top end can wait, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to future-proof the short block... If they'll play well with iron heads too. (Glad to hear aluminum is better with heat.) Still aiming for a good traveling & traffic engine here. Who has issues with pump gas and how much compression do you have? When does Regular and Mid-Grade fuel become a no-go? That caught me so off guard, I would have spit my water all over my keyboard had I still been drinking. haha Good visual. I saw that excellent deal, but I think that I already have some or something very close: I mean they do need painted now though... Last thing to add to this post, I just spoke with a rep from TA on cams, and they too said that they don't suggest lifter bore reinforcement until you get crazy with the cam grinds. The SA Design book and the TA catalog both make it seem absolutely crucial, but I guess not! And as Sean said, I guess they're a do-it-yourself-only item. I must have misread a 455 part listing.
Can confirm. No heads yet. But they may have one machinist now. So you're saying 10:1 w/ iron would get me a stable pump gas engine? I'm gonna take a look at those pistons. From the description, the 413 cam might be pushing it on street manners. I hadn't mentioned this, but I'm trying to keep the car tame enough so my lady can take over if something happens to me out on the road. She's a good learner and I'm a good teacher, but I wanna make sure low speed stop and go maneuvers are still easy for her if we get into a jam. I was hoping most of the power numbers could come from the compression and cfm when I threw that 400 number out there.
Like Hugger mentioned, 11-1 compression is the best to wake the 350 up. Demko, I & others run it on pump 93. Just break/smooth all sharp edges to eliminate detonation hot spots. Ditch the dual plane for an SP3. You can do flat tappet cam cuz you basically have no choice. Use Autotec or Diamond pistons to dial compression in without machine work or the expense. JW seems to like Diamonds. Best part of custom is you can keep your clearances on the tight side and use thin performance ring packs. Good luck.
If you aren’t porting the iron heads then just stick around 9:1 and run low octane fuel. Sure you can max out the compression to 11:1 and run high octane fuel but without good flowing heads it’s a waste of money on fuel. The kind of street manners your describing don’t match 11:1 and a big cam.
