Points retro fit

Having problem loading pics. Points are going in Petronix out. I have identified braided white wire (resistance) on rear of engine. . Removing wrap following it up to its connection to larger white wire and pink wire to coil. Judging by condition of crimp it appears factory . Pink wire is brittle and cara ked insulation where it curves upward . White wire appears to go down along engine . My car ran for a couple years with Petronix but had trouble with flooding before it would start . Meanwhile points on everyday driver 68 starting up 15 ° below I thought my guy had run separate wire to coil evidently I'm wrong. I intend to gap new set of points as is and fasten new lead to coil at junction where resistance wire is fastened to white wire/ pink wire

 

One wire runs from the starter solenoid to deliver full 12V while cranking. The resistance wire should knock the voltage down below 10V if you want to verify it with the key on and not cranking. If it is close to battery voltage, you might consider running a stand-alone resistor.

 

Thanks I have an old sears dwell meter/ function of voltmeter. I think I can try just that. Dark outside so will wait till am.Also if voltage below 10 may be cause of Petronix failure. In any case I'm sticking with points

 

cruddy looking connection. Soon I will attach dwellmeter and test if voltage is high or low. Too low per Petronix, just right for points.I have connectors that resemble round fused and twist on with threads to lock but are too small to engage both wires. Dwell unit connected switch to volt. Key is in on position 11+ volts

 

@knucklebusted . My tests say you got a point. After redcar reading at 11 volts key on, I went to blue car same test key on but only got 6 volts.. Of course guy that eliminated regulatoron firewall no longer in business. So I can't ask him. Yes I'm gonna have to step down voltage by half. Anything specific? I need to get red car on road

 

Oh boy, I put test on the wire feeding the coil on red car that didn't have nothing on breaker plate. Or coil for that matter. Whereas blue car was testing just touching post on coil...Well that's gonna take the easy test and nullify ..the results I'm gonna have to put breaker bar on engine and turn until points are closed. After they are adjusted , after I put them on.

 

I think you could just ground the coil negative wire to simulate the points closed.

 

I tested the wire just as it stood. The Petronix out no coil and bare breaker plate. I had planned to change breaker plate thinking the locating tab positioning points had been altered to allows ignition module to sit flat. So dist. Hasn't been moved. In theory points could be set and condenser installed it should fire up. Gas about 6 months old. At least the car with points still in it tested significantly lower.

 

That's is a baseline. I examine the junction that wire from starter ties in. Looks untouched. I can only put points in and properly gapped The routine of putting fresh plugs in occurred so frequently I can do it like in 10 minutes. But each time the smell of gas was getting weaker Car sat. Now once points are in and closed the voltage being cut in half seems unlikely. But that's what the thread suggests , I need a baseline

 

Yes, if the suspected resistor wire is connected, grounding the coil is the same as the points being closed, right?

 

With a open circuit there's no load and hence no resistance and then no current draw.
All you will ever read on a voltage meter with this condition is the full voltage level of the system

 

Thank you

 

The Pertronix setup requires that you replace the braided resistance wire, so that you have a full 12V going to coil. Not replacing that wire will lead to failure of the Pertronix. I have had Pertronix setup in my Skylark for many years with no issues.

 

I you have the full voltage wire instead, you can use a discreet resistor to get down to the correct voltage.

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Mot...F7N0yvDMW_F8XdTxUhsdlrveJkL4I_mBoCIX4QAvD_BwE

Of course that isn't the way Buick did it.

 

I didn't put it in.Now that I had to slice 50 year old overwrap to check lead I believe the OG wire was made to fire points eliminator So day by day I toil. I had to open up breaker plate for wire lead coming from coil I should be able to do something. For the dist has not been moved. I don't trust aftermarket coils , but I ain't throwing them away I got a coil off the bay, and I could see a scratch on top bakelite - but didn't cost me but a twenty.. Today I'm gonna bring the lobe up to adjust the point . The old stuff is reliable if it's taken care of .Luckily I don't have to count on junkyard parts to keep car going I work in machine shop and buy off the bay

 

I had an old Mallory dual point I sent out to be rebuilt and I seen it yesterday while looking for those little square washers on coil posts. It actually came with a ceramic resistor. And I bought the Petronix for that..... The dist so crowded misfire was likely. I get remaned dist at work and put new gear to dial it in..