So the entire interior of out of my Rivi right now. All the rust holes are patched with new steel, and I'm ready to seal things up and start reassembling the inside. I was going to get a quart of POR15 and seal the floors, but I'm wondering if it's overkill. There is some minor surface rust in a few other spots, but nothing major. I will be laying down a foil backed sound deadener, sealing the seams with foil tape, and installing brand new carpet. Do I necessarily NEED POR15? Or can I get away with Ace Rust Stop or Rustoleum? I won't be taking the remaining floors down to bare metal. Just gonna get in there with a wire wheel, and clean some crud up. Any thoughts? Has anyone gone the Rustoleum route? Can I save some money? Or should I just pony up and get the POR?
Personally i think rustoleum will be fine for the interior but i would certainly opt for the POR15 for underneath. I have used it on truck frames and suspension pieces and it holds up awesome.
There is not else like POR-15 that I have use. I would also just go with rustoleum like mentioned. The reason is POR-15 has a very strong smell and is hard to deal with. I would still use a good mask either way.
Rustoleum would be fine on the inside. As for the bottom, you can't beat POR-15. Just don't get it on your skin! Once dry, it does not come off! buy some good rubber gloves.
To me, Por 15 is for people doing frame-on restorations and don't want to have their frame, or whatever part, properly media blasted and and epoxy or powder coated. Por 15 is designed to paint over rust, so, it converts rust and makes into a suitable base for paint to stick. So, it's paint with a rust converter mixed-in. I painted a media blasted frame with Por 15 and chipped a spot during suspension assembly and, surprise, there was rust underneath. Where did that come from? I never used it again. If it were my floor pan I would wire brush it and get as much of it down to bare metal as possible, then I would scrub it with Os-Pho. If it were a valuable concourse level car I would epoxy coat it then follow with body color, wet-on-wet. On a driver quality car the rustolem will do the job.
I have used POR-15 on my entire frame, firewall, fender wells and I will be using it on the bottom and top of my floors. it is an awesome sealant and rust inhibitor. Just don't use it in any place the the sun will reach it. It does not handle UV rays at all. You can use POR-15, then a POR-15 primer and then any top coat you want in areas where the sun will reach it.
Thanks Everyone! From the sounds of it, I'm gonna save a few bucks and go Rustoleum. This is definitely not a show car, and (otherthan a freak storm here in Colorado) won't see anything but sunny days. I'll definitely clean the pans good, and redo a little seam sealer. That's kinda how I felt, though. Rustoleum + foil backed deadener + not seeing much weather should be fine.
you can do either and be fine, one thing about por 15, its kinda thick, and gets really hard after drying, that does 2 things, one, it actually is a little bit structural, two it also is a little bit sound deadning and heat insulating,
Is the car ever going to see "weather" again? Snow, salt and rain. If not you probably do not need it. Good luck
I had the worst experience with POR15. I paint cars for a living. So I thought this would be a breeze! Could not be any farther from the truth! I had the body of my GS upside down in my driveway. (2) jack stands under firewall cowl. and a wide flat horse spread out on trunk floor. I spent (3) months sanding entire underneath of car to get ready for this day. watched weather channel the day before. forecast dry air 84 degrees. Well I woke up early that Saturday morning to a nightmare! Pittsburgh in June! Cambodia! I kid you not all week the weather was fine! this Saturday morning buy the time I got everything ready at 9:30-10:00 The humidity was through the roof 85% climbing 92* degrees! Really! that early! the weatherman was so far off! My forehead was dripping all over the bottom of car! the paint was KICKING the very instance it came out of the gun! It was drying before it hit the car! anxiety I was tripping! I was freaking out! I kept dumping POR15 reducer in paint wasn't helping! needless to say worst experience I ever had. Called some homies! down the street and told them we had to put car body back in garage right away! I had to go to my father inlaws farm to bale hay! came back that night afraid to see the nightmare I created! went into garage 8 hrs after painting it. The paint job was fine! not the car I left that morning! I guess what happened was. it was so hot and humid that my air conditioner was crankin all day in house! And cold air dropped into a garage with a humidifier on zowie! The paint job flowed out very nicely! week later sanded whole paint job w/220 And resprayed car again with Sikkens Rally black! Car looked like it rolled off assembly line! but much nicer.
Not to make things more complicated...But...when i was researching finish for my current project, i ended up using John Deere Blitz Black (and they have primer and reducer). I bought a spray gun at Harbor Freight and a couple rattle cans for touch up. The POR-15 is difficult (and expensive) to have removed). search shop green dealer for john deere paint. A buddy of mine plans to paint the inside of his project car with it after seeing my frame.
I am a firm believer in POR 15 type products when applied correctly. I patched the rear passenger floor pan in my 86' cutlass (powered by a 462 BBB) and the area around the patch was pitted pretty badly. I used the silver POR 15 which has steel grindings in it and it dried to a rock hard very smooth surface. this was in 2007 and it is still looks great. I also did the frame of my current resto project, the 71' skylark with POR 15 gloss black. I have since found the KBS Coatings which is manufactured by an engineer which helped develop POR 15, after he left the POR 15 company. KBS is also cheaper by about 7 or 8 bucks a quart. I will be using the KBS inside the back quarters and trunk of my 71' skylark restoration I am currently working on.
Stu, I installed new insulation & carpet in my 67 last year. After I removed everything and cleaned up the floors I painted mine with rustoleum rusty metal primer [red color] It came out great & I was very happy with the results at a affordable price. This past winter I used Por-15 on the frame while the engine was out. I mixed it well & after wire brushing the frame I applied it with a brush. Came out nice and clean. Is it as good as having the frame pulled, blasted & epoxied probably not but I wasn't going to go through that. Im on a budget & want to tackle as much as I can on my own while doing a nice job. Por-15 you have to be careful what you get it on & yourself. Once it dries it is not coming off. Good luck with your project.
Amen to that. Toss the cheap-ass gloves that they send and get a pair of long heavy duty ones. Once dried, it's own solvent will not remove it.
I actually prefer RustBullet to POR15 and KBS's product. Its UV stable so it can be applied to any areas including those that will see alot of sunlight. The other's to my knowledge cannot.
