Does anyone have experience powdercoating parts that get hot? How high of a temperature can the powdercoating see before it breaks down? I see a lot of people powdercoating suspension parts, frames, brackets and hardware but what about engine parts, exhaust systems, radiators, etc. I was thinking about specifically coating mufflers, tailpipes, etc. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance. Paul
They have 1500 degree powdercoats. My brother asked the local guy here and he said he could do headers, exhaust, and any other engine part.
I am currently running powdercoating on intakes and valve covers. Spilled gas gives it a fit though. The local shop does headers (inside and out), so I assume since that is the hottest part of the engine, everything else would be ok. Beware of shops you don't know much about. Go for the ones with good reputations and pay a little more. Not all powders are equal and it is all in the prep work.
Your typical powdercoat is polyester, polyester-hybrid, polyurethane, or epoxy based....they're good to about 350 degrees F. There are silicone based powders good to 1000 and 1400 degrees F. For general info: http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/powder_colors2.html For the best powdercoating forum I've found: http://www.caswellplating.com/bbs/viewforum.php?f=4&sid=bc5b7929252b2668bda83af092b11e16 Ceramic paints are a different process....
Has anyone ever tossed around the idea of using a household oven for powdercoating purposes? Do you think it would ruin it? Just a thought?:Brow:
A house over is what most start with. You can build a better over then you can buy with the guts of one and free bricks. But lots of guys use infrared propane heaters to do the same. Makes it easier to do large parts without a monster oven sucking up juice. Most powder can do 400f ok. [ I cure mine at 385f 15-25 mins, that is 15-25 mins after the part reaches 385f.] There is 1500f powder but colors are limited. But powder coated parts cool better from the thermal bond of the powder. So it actually better to have parts coated. Where a paint might hold or hinder heat release. Other parts can be ceramic coated to hold in heat. The black ceramic I use can make a 200f pipe fell like 65f to the touch. But you do need good prep work with a fairly clean working area. The final step of curing is kind of easy one you get there. But the powder is super dangerous to breath or anything. It almost best to let / pay someone else to mess with powder unless you really want to. Ceramic coating is water based and can be put on with a simple $15 air brush, air dried and with a careful install it will cure once the engine is run. [ no oven needed] ceramic need temps over 750f for a final cure but most exhaust parts get way over that. Which is fine also, it just needs 750f+ to cure. 500f will only partly cure it. 500f is the limiting factor for most house ovens, why that comes into play.
Yep it creates a thermal bond that cools better than bare metal. Though I have no idea if anodize is better or how it works. I have heard of people using battery chargers, tin foil and rite clothes dye to do it at home. Powder is so nice though. The colors and effects are endless and its better than paint in allot of ways. I also hate chrome. It rust eventually. I hate rust, or anything that will rust. So I hate chrome. Here are some pics of a fender through several stages. It can be treated like paint and could of been buffed out for one more stage but I stopped there. It was only a test piece. http://www.viragotech.com/XVFinishes/fendertest.html
