Absolutely right, which is why it's so critical to get the powder directly around the area(s) to which it's to be deposited, in good quantity. So far with my particualr project this has been less than successful using the usual equipment. I'm now looking at something that can reach deep down through inside diameter to get the powder where it doesn't seem to go on its own. It may be less of a problem with a large, shallow ID such as a partially boxed frame rail, but the smaller and deeper the surface to be coated, the more of a pain it's been. Devon
No powder coat flaking off. Car is still apart but has resisted chips, dings, etc in the garage. No regrets yet. Had to grind or file some holes to get bolts back in. Dan
It sounds to me like POR is the ticket, a few more dollars than other coatings but well worth it. POR appealled to me because it was reasonable and made so much sense to a do it yourselfer, limited prep and easy to apply. I guess you get back what you put into something.
I agree.......................except you can't coat the inside of the boxed portions of the frame, you don't think the rust will bleed out from the holes under the POR?
A person I have known for years,restores $100,000 + cars and his boss sells them at big name auctions,He never uses powdercoat.Blast,clean well,use etching primer then urethane or epoxy paint,not sure which. It turns out hard as rock.Powdercoat peels when damaged or rust pushes it off,lays on metal where etching primer bites in.I will go this way on my pace car.Just started a frame off,should be done in 5 months,have 25 yrs in the trade,and its my 2nd frame off.
