Preloading upper arm

Discussion in 'Race car chassis tech' started by BQUICK, Sep 6, 2002.

  1. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    When preloading an adjustable arm would that be lengthening one of the arms? Which one? Passenger? Pinion angle is set, just need to dial in a bit of preload before I hit the track....

    Thanks
     
  2. Tom Rix

    Tom Rix Well-Known Member

    Preload

    When setting preload after the car is in race ready trim I would start by shortening the passenger side upper control arm by .125 (1/8) of an inch. If the car doesn't hook (assuming everything else optimized) crank in a little more as long as the car leaves straight. Good luck.

    Tom Rix
     
  3. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Thanks Tom. I adjusted for straght leave and ended up with the pass side longer. Is that all wrong?? Is the chassis fighting itself that way?

    Thanks
    Bruce
     
  4. Tom Rix

    Tom Rix Well-Known Member

    Bruce,

    That would be unusual but as long as the car leaves straight I wouldn't worry too much. Are you running airbags? Does car stop straight after a run? If it doesn't stop straight, I would measure everything to make sure rear is "square" in car.

    Good luck,
    Tom
     
  5. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Thanks Tom. Come to think of it, it does seem to dart one way when I hit the brakes at 125. That means it preloaded improperly?

    Bruce
     
  6. 72GSX

    72GSX Well-Known Member

    Does shortening the passenger side upper arm help to transfer more weight to that side? I just got the adjustable setup in mine and don't really understand how the preload works. Tom
     
  7. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Tom
    I don't think it has much to do with transferring weight....the preload is to counter the twisting of the axle so when it's loaded (power) it goes straight. My car goes straight now (most of the time :grin: ) so I leave em alone. I love driving into the track and running a 1.38 60 ft with stock type suspension no tubs mini or otherwise......but I think I've reached the limit.
    But.....I do have my eye on those anti roll bar setups........

    Bruce
     
  8. 72GSX

    72GSX Well-Known Member

    Thanks Bruce, What size and kind of tires do you run? I was getting mid to low 1.5 60s last year but this year I have all kinds of traction problems. I have Mickey Thompson 29.5-10.5-15 slicks the are 3 years old and getting worn down but still have a small amount of the wear holes left, Is it normal for a slick to go from good to real bad in just a few passes? I have a new set but wanted to use up my old ones but I guess I will have to change them. Tom
     
  9. BQUICK

    BQUICK Gold Level Contributor

    Hey Tom
    I tried some M/T's and my car didn't like them much. Only hooked 10 out of 30 passes. I have had better luck with Good Year (but they go away too fast) and Hoosier but the Phoenix (29.5 10.5) work best for me.

    BTW your 3 yr old tires are history......

    Bruce
     
  10. 72GSX

    72GSX Well-Known Member

    I had a set of goodyears before the M/Ts, The M/Ts worked as good and lasted longer and cost less. I hear the radial hoosiers work great but go away fast. Tom
     
  11. 72GSX

    72GSX Well-Known Member

    A new set of MT slicks fixed my traction problem, raced it saturday with new tires and started in the high 1.5s for 60ft times and got better every pass with a 1.56 60 ft on last run, {I red lighted by .001}:mad: :beer, Tom
     

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