Problems...unsure of where to go next

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by Builtthistough, Mar 15, 2017.

  1. Matt Knutson

    Matt Knutson Well-Known Member

    Is the pump in the carb giving you a nice squirt of fuel? Maybe the float is adjusted too low or sticking. Do you have another carb to try? Are the spark plugs tight? Vacuum advance hooked up?
     
  2. Builtthistough

    Builtthistough Active Member

    When it dies out I can still get a squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump.
    just checked timing again, still at 12* vacuum lineup hooked. With vacuum hooked up I can see it advance. Played with the air screws a bit and I am at 19" at idle.
    taking gas cap off does not change anything.
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Plug the vacuum line to the distributor. Rev the engine with the timing light connected. Does it still advance?

    Is the single exhaust old? With the vacuum gauge connected, at idle, open the throttle and hold the RPM steady. Watch the gauge. Does the vacuum remain steady or does it slowly drop?
     
  4. Builtthistough

    Builtthistough Active Member

    The exhaust is new. 2.5" manifolds back. H pipe and dual cherry bombs.

    the timing does advance with the lead disconnected, though I read the Accel module stops the weights from moving. I assume that means the unit has some advance built in?

    the vacuum holds steady at any rpm. Tried it at idle, 1500, 2500 and 3200.
     
  5. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    So blipping the carb linkage full throttle with your hand doesn't induce the issue?
     
  6. Builtthistough

    Builtthistough Active Member

    Nope. Runs great. I can go from idle to WFO four or five times in a row and it never reacts poorly.
     
  7. Builtthistough

    Builtthistough Active Member

    So the fuel pump thats in the car is just the house brand from O'Reilly's. Is it possible that it's incorrect for the requirements of the car? Here's what their site says about it. I had to replace a bad one when I first got the car and just changed it with the same one since it was cheap and easy to try.

    • nlet Fitting Size (In): 5/8 Inch
    • Inlet Fitting Type: Tube
    • Maximum Flow Rate (gph): 40 gph
    • Maximum Pressure (psi): 8 psi
    • Number Of Outlets: 1
    • Operating Pressure (psi): 8 psi
    • Outlet Attachment Method: Threaded
    • Outlet Fitting Type: Threaded
    • Outlet Thread Size: 5/8-18 Inch
    • Pressure Rating (psi): 8 psi
    • Gaskets Included: Yes

    Any chance it could be the coil breaking up and not recovering? It's only about 6 months old, but maybe just a bad coil?
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    No. The module has nothing to do with the mechanical advance weights.
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    A 1969 Electra would have come from the factory with a resistance wire. A GM HEI requires full time battery voltage.
     
  10. Builtthistough

    Builtthistough Active Member

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-2010acc/media/instructions/

    Check it out. The rotating piece bolts to the weights in their closed position, keeping them from "flinging" out with higher RPMs.

    I did also try a ballast resistor just to see what would happen and the voltage was too low to even start. Take the resistor out, fires right up.
     
  11. Builtthistough

    Builtthistough Active Member

    Not a HEI system. This kit is designed to work with the lower voltage of the resistance wire systems.
     
  12. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    OK, I looked at the instructions. It does not interfere with the weights. The ring attaches below the advance plate. No points elimination kit interferes with the advance weights. If yours does, something is wrong. And it does require primary resistance, either the stock resistance wire, or a ballast resistor.

    https://static.summitracing.com/glo...ACCELInstructionspointseliminatorkitgm201.pdf
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Reading more of the instructions, I see if you are using one of the 4 Accel special coils mentioned, you must eliminate the resistance wire. Which coil model number are you using?
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Builtthistough

    Builtthistough Active Member

    I can't recall the part number. But it's a 1.4ohm yellow super coil. So if your right I need a lower resistance coil without needing to run a new power wire?
     
  15. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    If you are running one of those 4 coils, you need to replace your resistance wire with a plain copper wire. If your car had points when you bought it, it had the factory resistance wire. I mean, it's a 1969 car. Who knows how it was modified before you owned it? The coil should have a label on it with the part number.
     
  16. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    If the Accel points elimination kit is meant to run with the stock coil and resistance wire, why not just reinstall the stock coil and see of the issue resolves itself? Seems like a simple enough test.
     
  17. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  18. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

  19. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  20. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    We'll have to wait till he confirms which one. I never cared for that super coil. I think its ugly! :bla:
     

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