Pulling Engine Question

This will be the very first time I have ever pulled an engine out, so need one basic question answered please. Where is the best places to connect the engine hoist chains? o No: I have seen some prefabricated plates that bolt onto the intake manifold where the carb attaches too but that does not seem like a good place to lift the entire engine by, or is it? Thanks for the suggestions.

 

I've seen many pull from intake/carb.....but it just dont seem trusty like 2 me...I prefer 2 use ther trans holes ....and the front block holes.....make sure you thread in good...make sure your chain is strong and not no cheapo....

.....but saftey first....make sure you have a few buddies around no matter how you take out...dont be sticking hands underneath anything....have some 2x4's or other types of pry tools around....think before you act....

saftey
saftey
saftey
...... :Smarty:

 

So the holes in the back of the engine that the transmission bolts into? Also, what holes in the front are you referring to? Are there threaded holes in the front of the block for this purpose or do I have to remove something and then use those holes? Thanks.

 

A motor plate that attaches to the carburetor holes is perfect. It is the center of gravity, and the shear strenght of the 1/4 inch bolts is many time the weight of the engine / trans each, and you will use 4 of them...

If a picture is worth a thousand words, here is a small book...

 

Better view of the plate... notice there are onlt two bolts in use. There will be no drama with a motor plate...

Frank

 

I'll second the motor plate. I'll also second the sheer strength of a 1/4 inch bolt is far greater than the weight of a motor. I think the sheer strength of a 16 penny nail is 1200 lbs, imagine what it is for a hardened bolt.

 

Yup, motor plates are easy and work great, but I have to admit, I get a little nervous with that much weight hanging off that point. The bolts are 5/16's and not 1/4". And Frank, the motor plate goes perpendicular to the way you have it bolted to the manifold. The multiple holes are there to balance the entire setup fore to aft depending on if you have the engine by itself or with the trans. All four bolts should be used so the plate is held firmly to the manifold carb flange.

 

I don't doubt you are correct. I had not ever been shown or told how the darn thing was supposed to go... o No: :error: ou:

If I could have such easy success and even have installed it wrong and only used two bolts does show how strong it is, however..

And you are right, they are 5/16 bolts. ou:

Thanks, Frank

 

COOL ! ONE MORE GUY BREAKING HIS CHERRY ! WELCOME TO THE DARK SIDE ! HAVE FUN WATCH THEM FINGER'S.RIV :TU: :Brow:

 

It does seem crazy to lift a motor and trans by a plate bolted to the intake but it will be fine. Your working with tensile strength of the bolts/studs at that point and as log as the plate is tight against the intake you will have no problems. Probably will help if you have a buddy there to help or even a wife or girlfriend. Ask my wife how many times she has helped me yank motors. :TU:

Good luck. :beer

 

Use good Grade 8- 5/16bolts!!! Has anyone used a lift plate on an engine with an aluminum intake? o No:

 

One of the GM automakers use to make a teardrop lifting lug. I would bolt these to oppsite ends of each head with a grade8 3/8 bolts and use a chain with hooks. This worked fine too, but the lift plate seems to center the load a little better.

 

That is one way, but I can't believe he trusted that method over that GS grill???????????????

I used a engine balancer with four chains bolted to the from and rear of the heads. It was just a bare motor that did not had any brackets bolted to it.

 

I installed my 464/th350 combo this summer with a Jeg's engine lift plate, and it worked perfect. With aluminum heads and intake the hole setup is only around 625 lbs. I think the plate is good for up to 1000lbs.

 

Thanks for the information and the great pictures. It seems scary, but seems to be ok. I will get the plate and lift it that way. Some guy on e-Bay is selling the plates and claims it will hold 1,000 pounds so it should be good to go. Maybe I'll order it from a better source then some guy on e-Bay though.

 

If I had a nickel for every person who told me I was crazy for not removing that grill, I'd be r... well, I'd have maybe 40 cents... :grin: :grin:

It did survive, however, so maybe I'm just crazy like a fox... :moonu: :grin: :beer

 

I don't know what you guys are talking about..I just reach in and lift out the motor with one hand,while I hold up the nose with the other..no big deal :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

 

That's exactly what worries me, I know the bolts strength is plenty but how about the thread strength especially on an older aluminum intake. Also all the motor plates I've seen have a short section thats welded on both ends and a section welded in the middle, I'd be happier if it was welded all the way across.

Dave

 

Motor hoist plate and / or engine tilter source

Hi -

I'm getting ready to remove my motor for rear seal / freeze plug replacement and was just wondering where does one get the hoist plate and/or engine tilter mentioned in this thread? o No:

TIA,

Erik