Tyler's GN just destroyed another "stock" replacement pump rotor. Is there a good billet option or any other option for a stronger part there? The one before this cracked, and this one came apart.
Mark, I would look on Bruce Toelle's site - www.ptsxtreme.com - and look under Strengthening the 200-4r. He has a lengthy post that looks to cover everything that needs to be upgraded. I'd paste it here, but it is a bit lengthy.
Yea, Scott. I read that, but I have searched their site and they don't list the pump rotor they mention for sale. I will have to call them. That is good info they have. Old but good.
You need a different tranny, he's way too hard on it. My tranny had 87K on it when I got, Harden stator, oil pump mod and few small mods to the VB. Running Alky, 2800 stall and 22 PSI, with a stock turbo. I have zero problems. And I've been known to throw it down hard:beers2: So how many tranny's has he been through? Always the same problem?
2 different tranny cases. different builders, but the builds aren't bad. He broke something on the original tranny in the pump area. I don't remember what it was, and then that build failed, and it was pulled and is sitting. Never pulled it apart, but systems could indicate pump. Then he bought the high dollar, bunch of billet components, well known builder for GN's transmission. Pump rotor eventually cracked in that trans, and the reduction of pressure caused the clutches to fry, in a few miles. So Tyler put the clutches in and another builder here found the crack in the pump rotor. He put new rotor and components in, and this new rotor completely came apart, and tranny went to no pressure. Everything else is handling the power. Hopefully, fixing this week link will work for a while. This trans has all the other strong components in it to handle 500+hp. They don't put the billet pump rotor in unless your expecting 650+. Heck, it's a $30 part breaking, so he's going to spend a little to strengthen that area. That car is fast, but it's no 8 second car. And it gets great gas mileage. Tyler said if he breaks it again, he may go to turbo 400. He is about to build a couple of those we have sitting around anyway. He has been training on the transmission builds.
why isnt the builder standing behind his work? i could understand no warranty if it were a high hp racing application but a stock GN ?
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/200-4r.htm Scroll down the page a bit to the rotors part #10BR made from 4340 billet steel then heat treated. It costs though. Rotor and slide combination.
Current builder that is helping us is standing behind his work. The workmanship isn't a problem, hard part is problem. So Tyler is going to buy a stronger pump rotor to put in. Original builder was Len Freeman in Las Vegas. Not doing business any more, and even if he was, it would require a ton of shipping cost.
Thanks Ken. I saw that at $232. Art Carr shows one, not billet, for $70. Looking for a 10 vane rotor. That's a pretty big range. http://www.cpttransmission.com/2004R_hitech_10vane_pump.htm
Hey Mark, Have you ever been on turbobuick.com and checked out their threads. Lots of tranny info available, maybe something that will help.
Yea, there is a lot of reading on the turbo sites. We have read a bunch. He's going to go to a stronger rotor, and surrounding parts. I guess he is putting down more power with that little v6 than we thought.
Not to ask a silly question, but do you know if the torque convertor, when bolted to the engine is running concentric? I have several friends with GNs and T-Types that run in the 10s without any pump rotor failures, which is making me think there may be an alignment problem or a problem with the manufacture of the torque convertor in which the snout that pilots into the crankshaft does not run concentric with the snout that goes into the front pump. It could also be a warped/bent flexplate. How does the front pump bushing look? Do you see any extreme wear? Years ago I had a transmission that would eat up front pump bushings because of a warped flexplate. I would check these items before buying more parts. Good luck with the repair. Hope this helps. Let us know what happens. Ken
Ken, we ordered a new flex plate for this car. Didn't see any obvious issues, but based on repeated issue, thought it was worth the few bucks to replace it.
Mark, I hate to ask this because it is a nightmare to think this, but did you check the crankshaft thrust? Have you previously "balooned" a convertor that may have taken the thrust bearing out? I hope the answer is that the thrust clearance is OK, even though it may be worth a look. Ken
Haven't checked that Ken. It's the original engine with a bunch of miles. Tyler pulled original tranny out when it broke some parts. We might try to check the crank play while the tranny is out. We had several people mention the flex plate, so it's worth looking in to.
Thanks. We are putting in a new pump assembly, and new flex plate. Converter has been cut open and checked, and freshened up.
