Q Jet choke

Discussion in 'The Venerable Q-Jet' started by D BERRY, Jan 12, 2005.

  1. D BERRY

    D BERRY 72 Skylark 2 DR POST

    I have run my cars for years without a choke, mainly because I can't set one up to satisfy me. Is there an expert out there who could write a detailed procedure out on what parts are needed and the steps to follow to properly set up an automatic choke? Or is that info already available somewhere?

    Dave Berry :Do No:
     
  2. TimR

    TimR Nutcase at large

    Would you be interested in a scan of a rebuild kit procedure (ac delco??). It take some tinkering, and a vacuum handpump but mine has always worked fairly well once set up like suggested...then you need to tweak for your particular car...

    later
    Tim
     
  3. D BERRY

    D BERRY 72 Skylark 2 DR POST

    Sure that would be swell Tim, I'd appreciate that!

    Dave Berry
     
  4. TimR

    TimR Nutcase at large

    I'm assuming its for the 72?? Get me the carb number and fire me an e-mail at ritc1@shaw.ca and I'll get it scanned asap...might be a couple hours (other things going on right now)

    later
    Tim
     
  5. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Dave is it the stock carb? What kind of choke do you want to run? Divorced? Integral? Electric?
     
  6. D BERRY

    D BERRY 72 Skylark 2 DR POST

    I don't know the year right off hand but I'll find out. The only choke I've tried on this car was divorced, but I might try an electrical if they work OK. What the heck is an integral choke??

    Dave Berry
     
  7. Smartin

    Smartin antiqueautomotiveservice.com Staff Member

    Integral = the "hot air" choke you see on later model qjets - a black cap on the side of the carb. It uses hot air from the exhaust crossover to heat the choke.
     
  8. 70gsrick

    70gsrick 1 of 66

    Last edited: Jan 14, 2005
  9. RAbarrett

    RAbarrett Well-Known Member

    One of the problems with the electric choke is the speed at which it opens. The electric is one of the quickest opening used, and can lead to hesitations, or stalling. The hot air choke is very sensitive to air cleaner or supply heat, and can have its share of problems if the incoming air is of too low a temperature, especially when the outside temps are below 40 deg. Set up is fairly straight forward, even with mildly modified engines. One thing to remember is that, regardless of the outside temp, if the engine is over-night cold, the choke must close completely; adjust it as such. The next step is to adjust the vacuum break, or choke pull-off opening. This adjustment determines how the engine will run immediately after starting. The initial adjustment should be about 1/4", with the pull-off completely pulled in. You can use a vacuum pump, or physically bottom it. It is easier to adjust this with the choke cold, as it requires less effort to maintain a closing force. Next is to set the fast idle at about 2000 rpm. This will be a place to start, as are all of these adjustments. Note: these adjustments are tedious at times and require a GENTLE touch. They also require a thorough knowledge of how the choke affects engine performance. These adjustments are best done with a cold engine, as the choke's purpose is to keep a cold engine running. First, confirm that the choke is closing when the engine is cold. Anything less will cause the engine to be difficult to start. The engine should start on the first try. It should run at a comfortable rpm when cold. Note whether the engine runs well, or runs rich. This can be seen by black smoke, or if the engine runs faster with the choke opened slightly or better if opened less. Make adjustments as necessary. Once these adjustments are made, adjust the fast idle to keep the engine running comfortably, as a cold stallout can cause a difficult restart. A little fast is better than too slow. At this point, drive the vehicle, noting its response to the throttle. Note any hesitations, or tip-in sags using a gentle throttle. Heavy throttle movement will allow airflow to push the choke open, and confuse the issue. If the engine runs smoothly through out warm-up, simply drive it, noting its operation for the next couple of days. If any hesitation is noted during warm-up, adjust the choke a little richer. If it still runs well, try adjusting the choke slightly leaner, creating a situation where the choke is only on long enough to keep it running when cold. If there are problems, remember this. If they occur right after start up, they are likely due to the choke pull-off adjustment. If they occur after the first couple of minutes of driving, they are likely due to opening rate. Typically, the fast idle speed can affect cold performance, and most '70's carbs used idle speed to keep cold engines running. Minor adjustments to the choke will allow slightly slower speeds when cold. Fast idle speed adjustments are on the passenger side on the Qjet. Slow idle speed adjustments are on the driver's side. Before doing any work on the choke, be VERY sure that the carb is properly adjusted for warm operation. Timing adjustments, advance curves, including the vacuum advance should operate correctly. These things can adversely affect a cold engine more than a warm one. I can answer any questions you may have, but I will need to know EXACTLY when the problem occurs, as this info will aloow me to accurately help you. Let me know... Ray
     
  10. D BERRY

    D BERRY 72 Skylark 2 DR POST

    Thanks Ray that's the kind of info I was hoping for. Yea, intregal, should have known that. Thanks everyone.

    Dave Berry
     

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