Hey everybody I haven't been on here in a long time but I'm finally getting to work on my 55 again. I finally have a new gas tank, new fuel lines, rebuilt fuel pump,I rebuilt the original two barrel, installed a Petronix kit and a fresh tune up. After installing the Pertronix kit I set the timing to the stock setting from the shop manual. For some reason the engine always seems to load up at idle. Not bad but you can hear the rpm drop a little as it's sitting idling and it just smells rich. After adjusting the mixture screws, I'm only pulling 15 in of vacuum at idle and that's at the highest vacuum. I've looked down the carb and can't see any drips or drops out of the venturis at idle, so I know the float isn't too high. Im not seeing any oil or anything like that on the plugs. It idles fairly smooth, but even when I revv it, it doesn't seem snappy, it's very lazy. Im thinking maybe I just need more initial timing. How much initial do you guys usually give these engines?
How does your hot cranking compression test out as compared to a Chiltons listing for your motor. Bump the initial timing up with the motor hot until it gets hard to crank and then back that up 3 to 4 degrees. What’s your idle speed and vacuum then? Also your cam may be retarded due to inaccuracies in the gears if they are new, or even due to the grinding of the cam being off it that is new. 15” is low I would expect at least 18 with a stock cam.
I see these kind of questions all the time. I even authored a thread about it, https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/power-timing-your-buick-v8.63475/ If you change your initial timing, you'll also change your total timing. The only time the engine runs at initial timing is at idle. Once you open the throttle, the mechanical advance, and vacuum advance add timing. The book setting only applies if the engine has the same distributor it left the factory with. If it has been changed out in the last 67 years, your initial timing requirements may have changed. The best thing to do is learn how to set the maximum advance without the vacuum advance. Then the initial advance is what it has to be for that total advance and the distributor that is currently in the engine. Also, the vacuum advance needs to work. Is it connected? Does it work? Have you checked? It needs to be connected to manifold vacuum. That will boost your ignition timing at idle. If the vacuum advance canister is shot, that may be your problem. This is a spark advance chart out of the 1955 Buick Chassis Manual, Is the engine modified at all? What carburetor are you running?
Hi Sorry for not responding. I didn't think anyone was going to answer. Ok the Distributor is the original from 55, it has the original Stromberg 2 barrel, the motor is bone stock and has about 66k on it. The only modification is a Petronix kit. I never did a compression test because it idled so smooth. But maybe I should just for good measure. When I set the timing I unscrewed the Vacuum advance fitting from the base of the carb, and plugged the hole. I'm pretty sure I tried to blow through the diaphragm and couldn't but I'll check again. I was thinking about pulling the distributor out and cleaning and lubing it. I'm wondering if the grease is fossilized and the weights don't advance. Larry I get what you're saying, but I'd like to retain the vacuum advance. If I pump my initial timing up that high I'll have to leave it disconnected, either that or get the distributor recurved. I'm not trying to get every HP I can just a better running Buick.
No, you are misunderstanding me. Absolutely keep the vacuum advance. Now that we are sure it is the original distributor, you can set the initial timing to the book specs. What I am saying is you should VERIFY that the mechanical advance and the vacuum advance is working. You can easily do both with a timing light. Do clean and lube the weights and make sure they move freely. Check the vacuum advance to see if it holds vacuum, and the linkage moves when vacuum is applied.
I would also suggest that you check if the outer ring on the balancer did not slip. It happened to me and I was chasing my own tail. Peace, Kacper.
When you pull the distributer to check the vacuum advance and centrifugal advance, put the original points/condenser back in. I chased performance issues with Pertronix for hundreds of miles. Installed new cap and rotor with no change, but after some miles I noted that the spark arc residue was only on the edge of the rotor and the edge of the terminals in the cap. Also with points/condenser the vacuum advance points to the edge of the valve cover...with Pertronix it points to the fender when properly timed. Pertronix gives good service to most, but mine was junk.
Get rid of the '55 distributor & put in the more common '57-'66 distributor. Much better parts availability & it's a bolt-in. No more having to chase parts for the older distributors as ALL the parts are readily available along with easier serviceability. Just my thoughts. Tom T.
Hey guys it turns out the breaker plate was stuck, and so was the mechanical advance. I took the mechanical advance apart cleaned, polished and greased it. Then I split both halves of the breaker plate cleaned all the old grease and oil out of it and reassembled it. There was something stuck in the plate causing it to jam, it looked like a tiny piece of copper. Also the vacuum advance checks out good, I tried to blow through it and couldn't, then I advanced the breaker plate and put my finger over the hole and it held. I'm just waiting for my second distributor to come in the mail. I accidentally put the bracket for the clips that holds the cap down, on upside down and broke one of the clips them trying to get it to move. I didn't realize it was upside down right away unfortunately. I will report back with the results once I get that stupid clip. Tom, my distributor has nice tight bearings, and I'm using the Pertronix set up, would I have any real issues with distributor wear causing issues? I bought a 57 distributor like 10 years ago, I planned on getting it recurved and using an MSD box with it, but I can't find it now. Once I get the four barrel wcfb on here and get my distributor all ironed out. I really want to try one of your rocker arm setups on here and see what it will do for this little 264.
While your now taking the time to do things right and since the motor as you say has 66k on it you should really replace the timing chain and gears. You will fell much better knowing you don’t have to question if a worn chain is having a effect on the motors performance.
The previous owner worked in an auto parts store back in the early 70s and before he quit he bought all the parts to rebuild the engine. I have just a chain. What are the odds the gears are bad?
Well if that is worth anything, I bought my Riv 13 years ago with 2k miles after rebuild. I decided to check timing chain and it was baaaad. I bought new one from Cars and it lasted for about 500 miles. I ended up with a roller one from TA Perf and so far so good not to mention the added benefit of adjustability. Why buy crap if you can get better stuff out there. Just my 2 cents. Peace, Kacper.
I'm going to check into my timing chain this week or next, also I am going to run through the carb again and also check the spark plugs. I set my timing for highest vacuum at idle, then played with the carb, I now have 16 inches at idle and my initial timing is about 8 degrees.
If you do replace the chain buy one in a long box (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1226560100...eqTy1gV9Bv3GfZIHtJbCnQajw=|tkp:Bk9SR6a9xP6nYQ) not in a square box (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2546391111...YIo27ccwVTrhMFq+09CX3Kd22Fm5|tkp:BFBMpr3E_qdh) which will be looser than original. The gears should be reusable.
I'm not suggesting that you not try Tom's rockers, but first find a 322 4 bbl manifold and carburetor. Even with the WCFB carburetor, it will wake up the 264 more then you would believe. If yours is a Dynaflow, it should already have the thin headgaskets, if it's a standard shift, I would install the thinner Dynaflow gaskets. (spel-check wanted to correct that to dataflow). In the fantasy department, see if you can find a set of '56 dual exhaust manifolds. They are essentially cast-iron headers that will bolt on (using the '56 exhaust pipes). They may be a bit pricy if you can find a set, but for the street you can't do any better. You can make a 264 perform really well; it has the best airflow (for it's cubic inch displacement) of any of the Nailheads.
X2...that is the setup in my 51 F-1 truck. It will rev past 5,000 rpm before the points or valves float. Really fun ride that everybody thinks has a bigger engine. Gonna go drive it now...
