I have a 72 350. Last year I had my motor rebuilt. 10.1 pistons, TA intake, TA headers, Dual flowmaster exh, TA 310, 650 edel. carb, plugs look good, 14* int. 34* total in around 2100 rpm's, 3:42 posi, Stall is supposed to be 2600? Engine runs good. Anyways this car will not break the tires loose. It will chirp'um going into second. It feels like the converter might be bogging it when I take off. Like I said the engine runs good and comes on strong at mid and top end. But lower seems weak. The only thing I can come up with is I need a looser stall. Any ideas would be great. What do you think? Thanks Frank
hmmmm.....buick 350's are usually good take off engines, maybe it is the stall conv., but i don't know for sure. All i know is 350 buick engines are good take off engines, so something isn't right somewhere along the line. -Cody
All other variables constant (new parts), I'd venture to guess it is ignition/timing/carb issues. Check the plugs, it may not be enough carb for the buildup. I'm going through the same thing with my 350 right now, so far it has meant replacing the harmonic balancer, a distributor rebuild, and some other ignition issues. And the carb (750 carter) still needs to be tuned into the car. I have the same problem though, it takes off with the pace of a slow moving turtle, but it will churp the 3.42s going into second. BTW, this is with the stock converter....
Quick question, with the car in gear how does it pull through the RPM range? Will it wrap out to 5500 or so? Does it start to quit revving past about 4000? Those are some of the symptoms mine showed.
I know the TA 310 isn't a torque monster at low rpm's. I noticed that when I put this new converter in it felt tighter then the one I took out. Last year before I did the mods I had a different stall in I think it was 2200. I could take my foot off the brake and the car would barely move or it wouldn't move. In the driveway it would roll back in drive. I know this one is tighter. In drive it will move and it drops the rpm's when I put it in drive. It's called turbo raptor converter good up to 450 HP 2600 stall. I don't know much about converters and this one may not even be 2600. I called the place and told them the reciept didn't have the stall number on it. I called their tech and he said lower displacement and lower torque then a big block will lower the stall. If it is 2600 at 450 HP then I know I'm not getting 2600 out of it with my motor. I really don't know what it's stalling at but it feels like it's around 2200? Which I think is to low for this cam. When I floor it from a stop it feels week for the first 2 seconds maybe. I've tried three different carbs and messed with the timming. Performance was the same. ??????
Have you checked the tranny in general? I'm no guru by anymeans, but it almost sounds like you burned up one of the clutches, a drum, a planetary, something like that. My father has a '94 F150 that we burned up the first drum in (1st gear), it would not move hardly at all, but if you got it going you could get into second and third and be ok. It still may be a tuning issue, but it sounds to me like a tranny problem. I don't think you should be able to roll back in drive, something is seriously wrong.
When I said roll back that's on an incline. With a different converter. I'd bet money there's nothing wrong with the trans. I had it rebuilt last year and it's running better then it did before the rebuild.
Hey Frank, Your build up sounds very similar to mine. I have the same as yours, except I have TA's bigger stainless valves, and porting and bowl work, plus my heads were shaved .030, and the deck of my block was cut .050, so I have .005 deck clearance with Sterling HT522NP pistons which are suppose to be 9.25 to 1 at .020 deck clearance. So Im suspecting your not actually at 10 to1 comp ratio if the block deck is stock and heads have never been cut. Your carb is too small, at least a 750 cfm minimum, preferabley a Q-Jet, Holley carb is ok too. What is your idle speed and vacuum at? I can idle mine down to 600 in gear, my vacuum is between 9 and 12 in gear. You may want to try more initial timing, like 16 or 18, I know thats getting up there, and it may start very hard when its hot, but try it, see if it makes a difference. Im running 18 initial with an MSD Pro Billet and MSD 6A box, and their timing computer. Are you still running points? The 310 cam likes compression, and alot of initial timing it seems. My stall speed is similar to yours, Im using a TCI convertor, its suppose to be 1000 over stock, it will creep in gear, but comes nowhere near stalling the motor. My rear gear is 3.42 also My car will smoke em all the way thru second gear from a 10 mph roll with half a tank of gas. I've wound mine out to 6000 plus rpm, pulls nice! I hope this helps yah a bit. Mark
The carb is partially what is holding you back. Get a Qjet 750cfm or a decent holley 750 or more. I agree with Mark, get the timing up there. I have the TA212 and run 18* initial and 34* total....all in at 1800. You might go all in at 2200. If you really want a screamer out of the hole, you will need a converter that flashes around 3600 or more. 2200 is too low for a 350 to make decent power with the TA intake and that cam. Mike
I have a MSD billet dist. and a 6A box on the way. Right now I have a pertronix and that could be part of the problem. I have a brand new 750 edel. carb and it made no difference. Mark you do have alittle more comp. then me and your heads are breathing better but I should still be close to your performance. Mike I agree with you on the stall. I need to buy a better name brand with the proper stall. I'm going to take the car out today and let you know what the rpm's are doing when I launch and when I hold the brake. I also need to get my new ignition in too.
Frank My engine sounds like yours...I also think much of the problem is the carb...get a 750 Q-jet.. a GOOD one..or have one re-built by Jim O...I have the original Q-jet on my car..just jetted up some..and from a dead stop it will leave 2 strips with out a problem..350 turbo trans..stock conv..3.23 posi...and pulls hard..all the way thru the power band..it has T/A intake..T/A headers..with some head work done..I run the Pertronix with their plug wires..no problem with it at all...Did you have any work done on the Dist o No: ..I had a re-curve kit installed in mine when we put the Pertronix in...I don't know the timing excatly but think it is around 12 initial...20 advanced..32 total..but don't know at what RPM..it all comes in...:Brow: I would try the easy things first.Carb..Timing..before switching torque conv's..and pulling trans..:grin: ...Good luck and let us know how you make out..
How does it act when you are rolling along slowly 15-25 MPH and nail it? Is there a slight delay..... before it starts pulling hard? I'm curious to hear those RPM's... sounds like your 'new' converter is WAAY to tight! Tighter than stock even. I feel this is what is holding your engine back... I suggest going with 2800-3200 stall, ATI, B&M, TCI ....ect.
Grant I think your right. I took the car out to check the rpm's. Here's what I found. Holding the brake and punching it the tires will break loose at 2100. From a stop and punching it, it will go to about 2200 to 2300 stay there and then it will climb as the speed increase's. If I'm in third gear cruising 1800 or so and hit it, it will stay at about 2200-2300 and then climb. I really believe it's not a carb issue. Engine response, plugs and timing all are perfect. The engine runs tip top. What do you think of my rpm's? Thanks Frank
Two more things it might bee .... :shock: Did "him" who did the motor degree the camshaft, or just put it in "by the marks"? (it acts a bit like it's retarded..) What is the actual stall speed? Ever checked it ? -What you bye isn't always what you get .... :rant: stall sped first .... Check it.. Bye or borrow a tach,(from what i can read between the lines, you don't got one?) connect it...In drive, standing still, one foot (hard) on the brake, start mowing the gas pedal towards the floor. watch the rpm increase to the point it stops (assuming brakes is ok/holding) there is your stall speed... :TU: don't do this test repeatedly, or for long.... Lots and lots of trans heat has to cool down or trans breakdown will be a result ! If you rely got the "all in" 34* timing at 2100 and stall is 2300 or more, there is little gain in adding more initial is there... (at 2300 the 34* of power making is already there,(you might run in to detonations if you pas 38-40* total....depending on gas) maybe you can get away with 2* more... before a recurve is necessary o No: Lars
I think its time to start shopping for a converter :Smarty: ......and try to sell your old one to try and get some of your investment back. 22-2300 RPM is NOT high enough for your combo! Sorry.. I honestly feel that this is the ROOT of your problem. Once you get going, is there a RPM (like 2800 for example) when it STARTS to PULL?? And from there it pulls ALL the way up to redline?
Thank you for all the help! I do feel the converter is the problem and knew I could find help from people who know their stuff. Now, what brand and what stall would you recommend for my combo? Thanks Frank
Don't be so sure its the converter. I had a similar situation when dialing in my stage 1 455. First of all ,what are the specs on your cam. To much duration, bleeds off cylinder pressure and you need to get the rpm's up to make any power. I sometimes think I am the cam replacement king,because I have tryed so many of them. I do know that for the street if you have a big duration cam, then say goodbye to instant low end response. It may be great for stalling at the starting line at the strip, but for low and midrage torque they are crap if you want the power instantly. Again,what are the spec's on that cam?
284 Adv. Dur. 232 @.50 .499 Lift 110 Lob. This is not a bottom end cam. That's why I think my stall is not high enough. Thanks
Frank, I really don't know which brand to recommend. I use an ATI 10" Racetreemaster behind my 455. Its been really good to me. Always wondered how it would do behind a small-block. Yet I think that there might be many other companies out there who can do as good maybe better...... I don't know. I suggest researching this Board, the small-block forum especially. Maybe some people with your cam will chime in with an exact stall # for that duration cam. Or you could just pick a company like TCI, B&M or ATI and just CALL them! They'll tell you!:Smarty: BTW..... what was the answer for this question? This will give you an indication of where the stall should be.
