1 of my winter projects was the possible replacement of the stock radiator in my GS. I'm not sure what direction I want to go with the 1. I had a problem with the motor running hot during the hot summer days if I pushed the motor hard. The motor is mostly stock right now, with only a few electrical mods so far. I've been keeping the motor looking stock, and wanted to do the same with the radiator. But I may do more extensive work on the motor in the near future( I have toyed with the idea of making it a Stage 1 motor, replacing the heads and cam). Should I put a 4 core radiator in, or go after an aluminum o No: Again, I'm trying to keep it looking stock. Thanks Dan :3gears:
I use a new (4 year old now) Modine 4-core with 7-blade fan, BBC truck ('85) clutch ($116), BBB fan shroud, 180* t-stat and run 190-200 maximum in 90+ heat, city or highway. Usually 180 but sometimes up to those numbers. I have separate cooler for my trans so saved a couple bucks on the radiator. I think it was just over $200. 11:1 Stage 1 ported heads 224/236 cam B4B headers Qjet etc.
my 70 GS has a 520 H/P 462 with 11 to 1 comp, besides the headers and the intake the rest of the car looks stock (im getting new 15x8 rallys!!). i ran a little hot on hot days with the stock 3 row, but never over 220 degrees. i decided to go to a stock 4 row, just for piece of mind, it now never goes over 205 even at idle on a hot day. The other key is to make sure your thurmal clutch fan is working proper, a wore out clutch will cause overheating alot more often then the radiator, you should not be over heating with a 3 row on a stock 455 with a 160 degree thromstat, uinless you have a/c and are idleing alot with it on. in building my street strip cars reliability and i try to keep the car looking stock as possible. also all you need to do is trim the rubber on the radiator pads when you go to a 4 row, and the 4 row looks as stock as the 3 row. hope this helps Kelly
I don't know my car's horsepower, but I run a 4 row hi-efficeiency radiator. You can have it made at any radiator shop for about $225. The hi-efficiency is 15 fins/inch versus the normal 12 fins/inch. I've never had my car go above 210 degrees. I've cruised during the summer, at the drag strip, wherever. I run a 180 thermostat, factory shroud, 7-blade fan and non-thermal clutch fan which cuts out at around 3300 rpm. Very happy with this setup.
Dan, Aluminum radiators are the ultimate, but they are pricey. For every .010 overbore on an engine, it is possible for the motor to run 10-15* hotter. I have a 2 core Griffin aluminum radiator, and the most I've seen is 190* stuck in traffic, and idling.
Hey Dan.I had my 3 row built to a 4 row,popped in a 180 stat and it works great.One should check the rest of the cooling system components while your at it.Aluminum rads are great,but as Larry stated bigger $$$.Later,Tony.
I am using a Griffin aluminum rad in my car. This thing cools so well, after idling for a bit, I can see the temp gauge actually move when air get flowing through it. I will admit the fan system on my car sucks. BUt the radiator is quite one of the best investments I made in the car. :laugh:
Glad to hear the aluminum one works good. When mine was running, even with a 4-core it'd get hot in traffic in the summer. But that is when it can be 110 degrees out. I heard that a normal car will run 100 degrees over ambient outside air temp. I'll be buying one of the aluminum radiators when I get to that point
I use the same radiator, I see 190*-210* tops. Stock boil-over temp is 247*F with the 15 psi cap, so 210*F on a 95*F day doesn't worry me a bit. I think mine was 200 bucks before tax
I have a Ron Davis radiator and this thing rocks! I thought I would have some problems with cooling my engine while running without moving, but sitting at idle the highest it'll reach is 180 without any air flowing through it. I hope it'll run alittle higher once the warmer weather comes as I don't want it to run too cool. I would get an aluminum radiator and paint it black to hide it. "Marco" has one in his Stage 1 and it seemed to solve his overheating problem while running his a/c. With his painted black it hides pretty well.
Ditto on the Ron Davis radiator. Part number 1-16CL6877 "Chevelle Type Radiator" is your manual tranny unit. Absolutely a drop-in. No fab required. Spectacular looking too. Lightweight. Price was $331 with shipping in May '03.
