Realistic 455 Build-up

Ok guys, I thought I might ask for a little advise. I am building a 455 for my 1968 GS400. It is a four speed car with manual brakes. The car will be used mainly for cruising and short trips around town. My plan is to install a set of 3:55 or 3:73 gears. I am looking for moderate performance with a nice muscle car idle. I have a kenne belle 107 window rattler cam that I was planning on using but have been told I may not be able to use it with my short block because I dont have notched pistons. I am looking for some cam advise. I am using a 1974 block with stock deck height, 10:1 cast pistons (WITHOUT notches), 1973 small valve heads. What cams can be used without notched pistons? The car will not be raced, but I would like to get some nice hp and torque out of it without going crazy. I also have a set of super comp headers that will breathe through 2.5 or possibly 3 inch exhaust. Please dont advise me that I need to spend 8 to 10k on my engine. That is not realistic for my application.

 

poston GS-113 or 118.

 

The 107 is not a good choice for you r combo,needs notched pistons and more compression,I'd use a 118 or 113 or something similar,won't need to notch and both have a good idle and enough vacuum for brakes.We've had very good luck with these cams with cars in the 12's.
gary

 

Vacuum is not an issue...I have manual brakes. It is a 4-speed car also, so I dont have to worry about converter issues either. I am considering having the heads milled to help bump the compression also.

 

You'll need notched pistons,bigger is not always better.
gary

 

Gary's right...too much cam without compression and other high-flow goodies to back it up can really ruin your day.

Devon

 

If I go with the 118 or 113, would you recommend installing the cam streight up or advanced 4 degrees?

 

Install the intake centerline at 114 if using the 118 cam and 109 if using the 113. The only difference in those cams is the lobe separation angle. The 113 will give you a little more top end pull, the 118 a slightly better idle.
Another great cam is the 226/238 ground on a 112 lsa cam Scotty Brown made. Straightline Performance in MI. Really nice street manners and great power.

 

They're usually ground 4* advanced,so install straight up,but better check it.

 

I run Poston's 113A cam and I like it a lot. A nice lopey idle without being choppy. Very streetable and every day cam. And my car has a/c and pb.

 

Are you running stock pistons/shortblock?

 

I am running stock-style TRW aluminum pistons. My compression is just a tick over factory 10 to 1. Bottom end is all stock and rebuilt. But done right. My biggest help is probably my heads. 1967 430 heads with stage 1 valves and they have been fully ported intake and exhaust. Also the combustion chambers are fully polished with the casting button removed to eliminate any chance of a hot spot developing. Holley 950HP carb, SP1 intake, headers with a x-pipe 2.5" exhaust. Stock ignition with points still and a stock fuel system with stage 1 fuel pump.

Specs on my cam are .491/.510 lift with 232/246 duration I believe. I do not have notched pistons. And I had my block decked so that pistons are only @.003 in the hole. My car is fairly heavy. This cam, along with my 3.73 rearend gets the car going pretty well. A 1.59 60-foot in the quarter mile. Now that is with slicks. But this engine in a coupe would probably be running 11.5's or 11.6's no problem as I'm about 400 lbs. heavier.

 

Thank you! That is the type of information I am looking for. Real world realistic build-up. I bet you dont have 10k into your engine like the others that are not much-if any-faster. Lets not forget what the stage one factory cars were running for hp and torque. Thats why I have a hard time justifying the money some of the members are putting into their engines. Anyone else running a similiar set-up that would like to respond?:grin:

 

Hey eganddg, go to the 2nd page of this forum to 11 sec, skylark, help.

Theres a few good combo's in that thread you might be interested in.

I have some info on the 2nd page, under J.staged it might help you out!!!

 

have a look at my build. pretty affordable. deals are out there. if i had the money that i do now i would have went with aluminum heads but they will come soon.

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=134046

 

What rocker arms are you running?

 

Zero deck block,dingle ball hone,new rings on stock('70) cast pistons,cut the crank new bearings,TA dual groove coated cam bearings,292-02h cam,oil mods,small valve heads ported by myself, adjustable pushrods,performer intake,Hei distributor locked out. Runs 11.8x in good air 12.0x when it gets hot.

 

Stock 430 rocker arms which have a 1.59 ratio. My engine has really worked out well. I just took my time and put together a few parts that just plain work well together. I feel very fortunate at the power my combo is making. I've posted the complete build before and have no problems with letting everybody know.

It's an engine that is very streetable. My wife has even driven the car to work. It cruises down the highway at 70 mph at about 2200 rpm's with the 4-speed automatic. And I can fill it up at any gas station. I love it.

I'm actually going to kind of miss it as I'm contemplating taking the engine out and putting the stock one back in so that I can put it in a 1982 Regal track-only car that's been sitting in my garage for over a year now. It's over 1,000 lbs. lighter than the convertible. But that would mean a new cam and new aluminum TE heads from T/A of course. I'd love to stick that Regal into the 9's. And that's going to mean another 150 more horsepower to meet my goals.

 

Phillip,
Did you use pistons with no notches on a zero deck with a 113A cam??!!

 

Yup, sure did. And I had the clearance measured and it was just over .125 if I remember right. The intake was a bit more than the exhaust.