Have done some simple stuff. Changed Wheel cylinders, lines..shocks, springs...so am not completely tech illiterate. So. I have drivers side wheel cylinder leaking, linings have some brake fluid on them. So I assume I need to change linings (prob cannot do just one side so prob do both pass & driver right?), I picked up wheel cylinder today. Reviewed shop manual...it looks a little complicated. Any heads up you "done it" guys!!
Brakes Fairly straight forward - and you should replace the linings, both sides -do one side at a time, so you have the other side for reference, for reassembly. You might want to also get new hardware kits for the brakes (pins, springs, clips, retainers, ect.) if available. If you have self adjusting brakes, make sure the adjusters are corrosion free and work properly. Use brake cleaner to remove any contaminents from the drum surfaces - get the drums turned if needed. Freeing the lines from the old wheel cylinders will likely be the hardest part of the job - use heat (if necessary). Inspect the condition of the steel lines, flex hoses and emergency brake cables while your at it, and replace any pieces that are in poor condition. Better to be safe than . . . :beer :TU:
Thanks Rivman. Being an east coaster I am very familiar with taking things apart on cars from the east. Not a lot of fun, the road salt gets into everything. My Skylark is a West coast car, never seen the salt and 47 000 miles. The only times we have needed the torch was during bodywork!! Good advice on the hardware kit, picked one up on the way home. Started 1st side, everything came apart in less then 10 minutes. I have one of my drum surfaces that has a groove that goes all way round the drum. Big deal?? The shoes I took off had hardly any wear and looked like they were just wearing with the groove. No vibrations during breaking...took the rust off the backing plate etch primed and satin blacked to finish it off...assembly of side one and tear down side 2 tomorrow. Thanks
Rear Drums If the drums are not that bad (severly worn or grooved, rusted, or out of round) you can dress them up with some course to medium emery paper just to give them a little tooth to break in the new shoes. Avoid any panic stops till the new shoes adjust to the old surface of the drums. 60-80% of braking is done by the front brakes, so the rear drums usually wear less. Might also be a good time to check the front drums, wheel cylinders, rubber flex lines, ect. and repack/adjust front wheel bearings while your at it. Something else you may want to consider is switching to silicone brake fluid (DOT 5), as it does not absorb moisture like regular brake fluid does, so there is less internal corrosion in the steel lines, wheel cylinders, and the master cylinder. This is particularily beneficial to vehicles that are stored for long periods of time in our northern climatic extremes. (It also will not harm painted surfaces). The complete braking system should be flushed before making the conversion, as silicone (DOT 5) is not compatible with regular (DOT 3/4) fluids. I replaced the complete braking system during my resto, and converted at that time. If you do change over to silicone be sure and check the master cylinder level on a periodic basis - most people have a tendency to put it in and ignore regular checks. Some more good info here : http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=98916 I think that's about it Michel - sorry for the long reply ! :sleep: :sleep: :sleep: :beer :TU:
Randy, by "adjust front wheel bearings", what exatly do you mean? o No: I just did my front brakes and the bearings just sit there, there's no adjustment. They're just held in lace in the drum by the wheel nut. What would it be that you are adjusting with a wheel bearing?
Thanks.Long replies that are well thought out are always appreciated. Did not do the brakes tonight. Wife bought me a stackable stainless steel toolbox from Costco for me B Day! (with my money, but it's the thought that counts right). Spent the evening loading tools and trying to max space in shop.Woodworking and old cars do not mix too well. Mabe I need a wood working shed... Thanks again for your help. One more question, can I use Hi temp lithium grease to lube the little pads on the backing plate?
tightening up the castle nut a little to take some of the play out. it's a feel thing really. you have to jack up the car and take hold of the tire at 12 o'clock with one hand an 6 o'clock with the other. "wiggle" the wheel back and forth. if there is some play you can take it out by tightening the castle nut. if there is a lot of play, might be time for new wheel bearings. i was always told by my dad you'll extend the life of the bearings if you keep them snug. :beer
Best check the service manual. Roller bearings (unlike ball bearings in the earlier models) are supposed to have some play in them. If you tighten them up to -0- play you are setting yourself up for premature failure. Normally you lightly tightened (snug) them with the castelated nut, then back off to the next cotter pin slot that will give you a slightly looseness while shaking the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions.
Adjusting front wheel bearings. Ken - exactly what Jason, Clint and justalark are refering to: Since you already have the drum off, it's a good time to check the wheel bearings for condition, (outer/inner), and the hub rear grease seal. Clean and repack the bearings (which will necessitate installing new seals, since the old ones will have to be removed to remove the inner race of the rear wheel bearing). Replace any worn bearings. A properly adjusted wheel bearing has .002" to .006" end play and a loose spindle nut. Early failure of the bearings can result if this adjustment is not made. That's the adjustment I was refering to. :beer :TU:
Brake lube Happy Birthday to you - been dropping hints to my wife about the same tool box every time we're in the store ! o No: :laugh: :laugh: Should be OK Michel, just use it sparingly. I use a product called EZE-SLIDE by kleen-flo - it's a silicone type lubricant that will withstand hi temps without melting, and has water wash out resistance - works for disc or drum brakes. A tube will last almost a lifetime. :beer :TU:
I agree with Rivman, you don't want to use any grease that will break down with heat or it will work its way into the brake dust and stick to your shoes...not good over time. Use the hi temp lube available for disc brakes.
Ahh. I see. Yeah, I just did this with mine. I just wasn't sure what you meant by adjust. Once you snug them up and put the cotter pin back in, they shouldn't really loosen up should they?
RIGHT YOU ARE, KENNY.(sorry shamless MXC ripoff, it had to be done.) over time they will. everything has wear and tear to it. the grease will break down some and the bearing will wear. but were talking a long time here. as long as you jack it up and try and wiggle the wheel every once in a while you'll be alright.
