Rear Package Tray removal and installation.

Signing on.. I need to do this too

 

yup i got one to install to.

 

Take out the back rest for the rear seat first.This means removing the bottom first.
Tray essentially slides in...........under the sail panels & the rear metal finish panel inside the rear glass. Front edge has a vinyl cushion with an edge that slips behind the rear seat. Glue this edge down once everything fits.
Fit & trim, fit & trim.............could take a few tries. You'll see factory edges that hug the back edge of the inside quarter panel/door panel. Check the gap on your old one before you remove it.
Patience is the key.
Usually a layer of insulation under the tray, resting on the sheet metal. You'll have to trim it away from the rear shoulder belt mounts as they rise up about 3/8".
Once you get a nice snug fit mark & cut openings as required on your car. Rear defrost, rear shoulder belts etc.. I took mine back out to cut these holes.
What looked like a 20 minute job turned into over 2 hrs..
Best way to speed the process is have a beer every 15-20 minutes.

 

I did this over the past winter. It's a pretty easy, straightforward job.

Remove rear seat, back, and door panels, rip out the old package tray. Then trim the new one to slide in. I secured the vinyl flap with duct tape, I hate any sort of spray adhesive. The duct tape held it until I could get the seat back reinstalled and it seems to be holding it very nicely.

 

Larry the ones i put in glued in by the quarter window and the rear window like a headliner on Georges website it showed a plastic fastner similar to velcro.Mine were not like that.i got a new package tray from legendary i believe it slips in on sail panels and rear panels.

 

Get a sharp knife and have patience. The insulation is important. I used 3M spray adhesive and it worked perfectly. I also ended up spray painting the metal trim. Its usually is a little sun worn, so have some paint on hand or its another trip out to the parts store. Steve's tips (above) looked good!

 

I did my GS about a month ago, and have done several in the past. I've never done your exact year, but I've never had to trim any REM tray. Take the seats out. If you have light colored belts or want to protect them from dirt, scratching, underlayment tar...put ziplock or grocery bags on them. You will have to trim the material that folds over behind the rear seat top. You can buy the jute insulation from some suppliers. You used to be able to get it from like Home depot in the bulk carpet area. Definitely do the insulation. It doesn't weigh much, it will keep trunk dust and the noise level down. It won't slow you down in the 1420. I like to lay in the insulation w/o glue. Lay it on, trial fit the shelf. Climb in the trunk like when you used to sneak in the Drive-in, bring a Sharpie, trace the speaker(s), rr defrost, or whatever on the jute from underneath. You may have to do it twice, once for the shelf + once for the jute. Depends if you have a mesh tray and what options you have. Lay the jute, lay the tray. There will probably be a plastic or wax paper strip across the area where you glue it down...leave it there for now. I would get something to cover the new deck before you mess with the glue. Fold over the vinyl strip before glueing to get a feel for how it fits. If you pull it and glue it tight, it probably won't come out even behind the seat the whole length. If it's too loose it looks sloppy. Because there is foam under it, the tension is like adjustable. You are looking for a a nice even fit with a little bulge across the length of the seat. Now is probably the time to trim the flap also as you check for fit. You will maybe have to notch the flap for the back seat hooks. Plastic...a trash bag, newspapers...get something to cover it somewhat before you glue it. The spray glue can be messy, it can end up on your window, new deck, or whatever. It works well, it's just messy. Sometimes I make like a small shield out of cardboard to put under the flap that you glue while spraying. Like tuck it under the flap and then hold it straight up so the overspray hits the cardboard and not your window! Olds are worse, the shelf is huge like twice as wide as GS, and the window angles steep and it's long, too. I mostly use plain contact cement, like you use for tile or whatever. You brush it on, you have more control, it drys slower, it's less messy, and often you can reposition it. You can do it, it's pretty straight forward. Upholstery is just different than what you normally do. The hardest part is getting the seats out!

 

Looks really good Larry
Is the package tray the one with the mesh on it? Thats what Im looking for. As I too what to hide some speakers and remove the hideous speaker covers currently on mine.

 

strange the color is so off ... mebbe in another 42 years it'll all fade into one

 

how big is the lens diameter ? I know I have a nice one for the center of the headliner but IDK if the sail panel ones are smaller ... '69 used rectangular ones.

 

... and the latest contestant on Dancing With The Stars doesnt have one ? or seventeen ?!?!?

 

Glad you got it done, looks good! I told you getting the seat out was the hardest part. Yup, the spray glue goes everywhere, I don't use it anymore for that reason for trays. I'm sure it looks way better than speaker grills. If peeps see super duper speakers, even though there's an AM in the dash, it kind of blows the "secret" of your hidden audio. That kind of color interior is hard to match different pieces. The pieces seem to color age at different rates. That's the beauty of a black interior, black is always black. And...if you make any interior mistakes (cut carpet or headliner too short, scrape scratch or cut door panels, etc.) they don't show because everything is black!