I have started to remove my old TH350 from my '83 Regal Wagon with 3.8 L V-6. I don't see how to possibly get to the second bolt from the bottom on each side and probably not the top 2 either. Does anyone have some tricks on how to do this that they are willing to share? If I remove the tranny support and lower the rear of the transmission, will this help? That is what I am going to start doing now. Do I have to remove the engine and transmission together? I sure hope not. Thanks, Walter'
If you remove the trans crossmember and tilt the who contraption rearward, you should be able to get the bolts. You might find that a long wobble extension will let you better get at the bolts on top, too. Good luck. Rudy E
I drop the crossmember, let the tail of the tranny hang low, and use like 8 four- inch extensions - the extensions give you some "wobble", without being as floppy as a wobble adaptor. Try it, and you'll see what I mean.
Here's what I use I have a 36" long extention and an impact swivel adaptor. The universal joint type is not 'stiff' enough but you could wrap it with some electrical or duct tape to 'stiffen' it up so the socket isn't so 'floppy' when you are trying to get it onto the bolt head. You do not have to remove the engine/trans as one piece. I as well as many others have removed just the trans(I have one out now). A trans is heavy, do you have a way to support it once you get the bolts out? (Floor jack, trans jack?) I did a bunch with a floor jack and a piece of 2x6 when I was younger but now I have a Transmission jack I bought at Northern Tool and it sure makes it a bunch easier(not to mention much safer). Will you be putting it back in? If so did you pay attetion to how the drive shaft was attached. The reason I ask is I didn't the first few times and on one we had a 'mystery' vibration tha was tracked down to the drive shaft being '180 out' . Just an FYI. Good Luck and post back if you run into more problems.
I got tranny out. Lowering the tailshaft was what I had to do. I used every extension I had, started with a 10 and two 6 inch 1/2" drive, then to 3/8 drive 10 inch and two 3 inch extension. While this setup was nice and wobbly, for top two bolts, I still had to use a universal joint. There just was not enough clearance between bolts and firewall. Wish I had read about using the electrical tape before. That is a great idea and I know will help when I put other tranny back in. I have a motorcycle jack that worked great as a transmission jack. I didn't pay attention to the drive shaft, so I will be watching for any vibration. One thing I noticed about the flywheel was that it does not appear symetrical. There are three holes about 2 inches in diameter spaced equally around 1/2 the flywheel and then just three thin moon shaped slots spaced evenly on the other half. At first glance,it sure doesn't look like it would be balanced. There are a series of 1/2" diameter holes at the very edge where the slots are. Is that enough to cancel it out? Is there something I am missing? Walter
