I'VE GOT A EDELBROCK 750 ON A REBUILT 350 THAT IS RUNNING RICH. A GUY TOLD ME TO PUT A ONE INCH SPACER UNDER IT AND THAT WOULD HELP THE AIR TO FUEL RATIO. I'VE GOT POSTON S-DIVIDER INTAKE. I'M NOT REAL ENGINE SAVY, SO I REALLY DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO. SOMEONE ELSE SAID I NEED TO REJET CARB. WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.o No:
Unless there is something wrong with the engine, then you need to re-jet the carb. That is how you should adjust A/F mix. Unless there is a problem that is causing it to run to rich. As far as the carb spacer, supposidly it could give you more power under certain circumastances, but I don't think it would effect your A/F mix. How do you know it is running rich? Is it at idle, or at WOT to?
I CAN SMELL IT AT THE BACK OF CAR. STALLS AT TAKEOFF IF YOU GET ON IT HARD. ONCE YOU GET GOING DOES PRETTY GOOD AT HIGHER RPM'S. BRAND NEW CARB. ON A REBUILT ENGINE.
okay, I'm no expert but I'd say that's something besides jets. If it is stalling, then the jets would have to be so far out it's not even funny, and a carb spacer woundn't help at all. My first suspect would be the choke. That would defianantly do what you describe if it isn't opening completely. So I'd check that first. Even tho it is a rebuilt engine, I'd do a compression check on all cylinders. Also, was this a stock rebuild, or performance? If there is a high lift cam it could do the things you describe. What happens is it has very little vacuum at idle, the carb opens up the power circuit and dumps gas down there.... i'm not to sure on edlebrock carbs, but most have a way to adjust when the power circuit opens to prevent this... like I said, I'm no expert, but they're a few things to try... PS. Easy with the capslock!!!! lol -Nick
You claim to be no expert. I'm not even a good novice. Rebuild engine with mostly Poston parts. Intake,350gs- 113 cam,10 to 1 pistons. The guy that did the work advised doing the same things you said. It's a few other guys and their advise thats confusing me. Like I said im not even a good novice. As far as your vaccum question, I can't answer that. Engine as less 30 mi. on it. Cars been in restoration shop far two months. Should be done in two or three weeks. You seem to be on the same page as the guy that built the engine. When I get car back I'll have him look in to your suggestions. Maybe we can get to the bottom of this. I'm ready to get my 72 skylark on the road. :grin:
OK if the motor has less than 30 miles on you should not even be getting on the gas yet but just driving it normal around town for at least 1000 miles. Change your oil at about 300 miles and check if there is any metal shavings. There should be a little but not much. As for the carb. I used to have a 600cfm edelbrock and I beleave you can change the air fuel mixture right on the front of the carb the two big screws in front. Un hook a vacume line and hook a vacumme gauge up to it. Turn them till your rpms/ vacume are at the highest point. Than it shouldn't blow out any black smoke any more. And you will notice an increanse in gas miliage. Or maybe I dunno you might have such crappy octane gas in it. Thus the car will basicly think you are trying to run your engine on what I would compare to water and would just spit it out the back. Get it fixed and don't beat the hell out of your car to much :Brow:
Your in the heart of Gods country in N.W. Arkansas. The guy that built the engine gauged he carb. got it were it should be. Think it just to much carb for the engine. When resto. is done, and I get it back on the road, think I'll get the guy to rejet it. Should have put a 600 cfm on it instead of the 750. Another two weeks body will be done. Then put the new trimmings inside and shes done. Car restorations sure do make the ol wallet feel empty. But what a classy ride it going to be.:Brow:
I have a 780cfm holley carb on my car. I have #72 jets in it and its not to much carb. I have headers on my car and the ta intake on it which proably makes a difference. It may be your timming. If you want power and great throttal response adjust your timming by loosening the one bolt induder the distrubuter on the right side just left of your power steering pump. Once that is loose and you can move the distrubtor. Make sure it is not to loose you will now want to start your car and move it either left or right till your highest rpms/vacume is meet. That may help if not you can email me at bmxerbrett@hotmail.com I may have a few more answers.
I don't know how a #72 jet compares to the jetting in my edelbrock . My book that came with carb indicates the main jet is #1431 (.107). A #1430 (.104) would be 4% leaner according to the book. This is all greek to me. Maybe the guy that did engine work can shed some light on it. I've also got headers and Poston's aluminum S-divider intake on my engine. Timed engine to Poston specifications. Maybe in a couple of weeks when I get the car back I can do something about this. Until then I'll keep a on my face.
carb. tuning Finally bought a tuning kit for my Edelbrock 750. Carb. comes with a #1432 (.110) jets in the primarys. Jetted them with #1430(.104). Metering rods were #1459 (075 by 047). Changed to #1553(071 by 047). Left the step-up springs the same. Seconary jets are#1429(.101) from #1431(.107). Car is running strong with no hessitation and no more black smoke. I'm going to adjust the choke tomorrow. I can even stand outside the car reach in through the window and it will start. Before the tuning it would take a while to start and a lot of pampering of the gas pedal to keep it running.
dariggs, Did you just order your tuning kit from edelbrock from the company? I have a 600cfm that I want to do the same thing to mine as you did yours, but will the numbers be the same? I would think they would not be. If this is the case, then what would you think they are? Adam
carb. tuning kit Hey SMartin. If you have a Edelbrock 600 manual choke you will need kit #EDL-1479. If you have electric choke kit #EDL-1487. I ordered mine from Summit Racing. Call them at 1-800-230-3030. I priced them in a lot of places, they had the best price. Electric choke kit is $34.95. Manual is $51.75. Kits come with an asortment of jets, rods, and springs. I had to take my carb. off to change jets, but if you just need to change metering rods you can do that carb. on. Kind of is a trial and error thing. It will take a little time but keep changing jets and rods till you get it right. Let me know how you come out.
Thanks for the info...this may be the thing I've been hunting for some time now. I hope it works. Adam
