Are all factory rocker arms the same? In another thread comeone asked about assemling their new rockers and shafts and said that their rockers were marked with an L and R . My rockers have no left or right markings and I see no difference in them so whats the deal? Are they all the same or are they specific for the right and left? Or did I just misunderstand the other thread? Thanks again
If you have the stamped steel rockers, than no, I dont think there is a difference between R and L. There where another style of rocker that was used on the 455's that where cast aluminum with steel tips ect... now those arm R and L specific which are casted in. When assembling, you will need the nylon push button retainers that hold the rocker arm in position on the shafts. I cant remember but there might be different sizes of retainers for the rockers depending if they are the aluminum or steel ones. Also, I would put some type of assembly lube on the rocker shafts for the first start.
Thanks regal455. I didn't think there was a difference but after seeing the other post I just wanted to be sure since this is my first 455. I already have the new buttons so I should be ready to go. Now I just need to get my timing coverback from TSP and my motor will be done!
???? I think the factory stamped steel rockers for the 455 are still left and right hand specific. If there is no difference (off-set at the pushrod cup), aren't they for the (newer) V-6 engine?o No:
I have my valve covers off my engine and I though I would check mine. I have a 70 Stage One engine that has never been apart. Aluminum rockers also. Right bank from rear to front L R L R L R L R Left bank from rear to front R L R L R L R L Jim
Just walked out to my shop to ck my rockers and I have both types. The Aluminun ones from my 72 motor have L for left of center bias on the valve side of the rocker and R for right bias. They mount on the shaft w/ nylon buttons in the following order: L R L R L R L R. Since the shafts are identical installation should be Idiot Proof. (lucky for me) The Stamped Steel rockers from my 75 motor are directionally nuetral. Guess I better go ck my pushrod length now, I intend to run the Steels on my 72. Thanks for making me look, I hadn't even noticed a difference. Disassembled motors about 3 months apart.
I know the stamped steel rockers look straight, but are the pushrod cups centered or slightly offset within the rocker itself? I think the pushrod cups should be stamped slightly offset.
There are 2 styles of steel rockers, one style is not stamped L and R so they can go on any way. The other set is stamped L and R so these have to be mounted in the correct order. You understood the thread correctly. Jim Burek P.A.E. ENTERPRISES
The steel ones I have are centered and fortunately in good enough condition that they only needed a wipe down for reinstallation. Any difference in ratio between aluminums and steels?
I heard of this when I went to BG last week. I have the later rockers with no L or R on them. Some pushrods are leaning slightly to the left or right. I was told in Kentucky that I had the later rockers and that it was my problem with pushrod to head clearance. Just about half of the rods are close to the wall of the head. So, I just ordered new rods and rockers that have the stamped letters. Hope this cures my problem.
1.55 steel 1.59 aluminum A few months ago, I bought a set of NOS alum rocker arms off ebay that was missing one arm (15). Well I figured at least one of my old ones would work fine. When I get the rockers... I get 14 L's... so I gave up and called TA and ordered the reman'ed aluminum set. I can remember at least saying the part number (1300-455A???) and asking "these are aluminum right" multiple times... well I get the assm's yesterday... and they are steel... ERR I guess I'll call tuesday and hopefully they handle it well. Andy
Ahhh, more information is good. I'm glad I saw that other post and asked the question. Jim Burek I'm suprised you don't just charge me a low monthly fee for the questions you know I'll be asking! When I finish my car what will we talk about?
steal and alum. Hey Jim, is there anything wrong with running the stamped steal rockers on the intake side and the alum. rockers on the exhaust side since the alum. ones have alittle better ratio ? Rick
Re: steal and alum. If you are talking about using 430's on the exhaust and 455 steels on the intake, you would have problems due to not being able to keep the 430 rockers located, the steel rockers use buttons, the 430's use springs. My question is why bother? That is the reason most Buick cams are dual pattern cams, more lift and or duration onthe exhaust side than the intake side. Jim Burek
The reason I ask is because the motor had this setup when I got it from the guy that was selling it. Now some of the cups in the alum. rockers are starting to crack and I wasn't sure if I should just order a new set of 455 stamped steal rockers or just replace the breaking alum. ones instead. Thanks for your input, Rick
My 72 aluminum rockers have buttons and are noticeably lighter that the steel ones. According to Andy, above, the ratios are .04 different w/the aluminum one being longer. I was going to run the aluminums because of the greater ratio but since you mentioned cracking and the net gain in valve lift is only .012", I will opt for the reliability of the steels. BTW, I cked push rod lengths and they are the same on aluminum and steel setups. Tom.
Tom I guess the guy thought the extra lift on the exhaust side useing the aluminum ones was worth something ? I'm going to go with all stamped steal also, now i just have to figure who has the best deal on a new set. Rick
Just got mine from AMP today. Stamped steel with the R and L on them. New shafts and all assembled. Ready to bolt on. $169. $139 if you assemble them. Fast shipping to TN too. Don't know how that price compares, but after meeting this guy at the Nationals, I didn't compare prices. He is very informative and will gladly help you out.
John, the only thing to watch on those are the shafts. The replacement shafts are much thinner than the factory oem shafts. I did not know this earlier until I started comparing shaft thicknesses. Don't matter who you buy them form, they are all made by the same company. Larger cams cams can cause these shafts to break at the ends. Jim Burek
