Fired my new Stage 2 up yesterday. Broke in for 20 min, put it in gear made a sound like a spinning bearing, gets worse if I put a load on it (against converter). Same 8 in converter as before but now running JW Wheel. Good oil pressure 90 dropped to 60 at 2000. Wiping out thrust bearing???? Again? What would take out the thrust? I had plenty of pull up on the converter.... I give up on this "machinist"...... Bruce
Bruce, Put your dial indicator on the front of the crank, and check the end play.. against what it was on the stand.. that will tell you if the bearing is going away. Been here, done this.. and have the bills to prove it.. Thrust bearing failure can be caused by (in no particular order) Thrust cap alignment issues (I had one that tipped over .003, when torqued.. it was an NOS block.. and bad from the get go.. caused point contact on the bearing, which would wear rapidly, and then result in total bearing failure after a while.. there is always some pressure on the thrust, under normal conditions. On block girdle motors, I have seen it where I have had to work the thrust cap bolt holes a bit, to get the upper and lower bearing shells to line up again.. the studs have a bigger od than the bolts do, and can cause the cap to not flush up on the thrust surface.. saw that again just recently. High converter/cooler pressure.. put a gauge in the lower cooler line of the trans.. 90 psi max.. should be more like 40-60 psi depending on what range the trans is in. Major cause of high converter pressures are line pressure too high, or cooler restrictions. I have seen the guys go nuts with the line pressures, especially in race transmissions. 2 "horseshoe clips" on the pressure regulator valve is the max.. Poor surface finish of the thrust area on the crank.. Caused by not letting the grinder wheel "spark out" when they ground the crank.. I always dress this area with a stone during a rebuild, to polish it up.. it has to be pretty much perfect. Don't worry about the front thrust "cheek", under normal conditions, that will never touch. And of course, a ballooned converter.. not likely in your senario. I have a fairly simple way of insureing that the thrust cap is installed correctly.. Torque the shells up in the block, and measure the dimension across the thrust.. (with a Micrometer that reads in tenths.. not a venier) then take an inside measurement between the cheeks of the crank, in four places around the crank. In a perfect world, these 4 dimensions will be the same, but I have seen them be a few tenths different, and that is not a huge issue. Take the minumum dimension from the crank, and the max dimension for the cap/bearing assembly.. do the math and that is your thrust clearance. If the dial indicator does not match the math, upon assembly, then we figure out why.. I have in the past put dye on the back of the thrust bearing shells, dropped the crank in, and then applied some force on the back of the crank, while rotating it, so that it marks up the thrust where the crank is hitting it. Don't skip torquing the shells up in the block, as the thrust bearing spreads slightly when installed, due to bearing crush. There is a good article on the web, put out by the AERA, on this issue.. not sure of the URL, but I thought someone at one time put a link on the board here. JW
But if you have oil pressure that dropped when you revved the motor, I think you lost a rod bearing... Inspect the filter, see what's hanging around in there.. JW
No, Jim.....I meant that the oil pressure went from 90 cold at 2000 to 60 HOT at 2000. More than enough I would say. I am 98% sure I found it:Brow: I'll give you one more shot ! Make this the puzzler (Click and Clack) for today! It's a good one and all the info that you need is in my post. Answer at NOON.:beer Bruce
Com' on even click and clack give more then that... Click & Clack would at least reproduce the noise with there vocals. All we get to work with is "screamin like a banshee!" - not fair I ' d say.:laugh: I'll go with "Loose converter bolts" for $200 Alexo No: Jake
Sorry wrong answer. Try noises for $455. No audio....how bout "a screamin banshee being raped scraping fingernails down a blackboard"?
If you are running a fan and shroud you might want to check that the fan isn't hitting the shroud!ou:
WE have a winner! Had a Tilton starter.... only had .005-.007 clearance. When it was put in gear the converter pushes forward and the banshees come alive! Put a Powermaster on and at least .060 clearance. I'll save the Tilton for a stock flexplate. Bruce :beer
Doe.... should have waited another 2 minutes :grin: I'm glad you found it Bruce with out having to tear into the motor!!!!
Bruce, This is my first big block project (high compression / bracket car). Could you share your experience with a Tilton starter and Powermaster? I will also be running a JW. >>So I want to make sure I buy the starter "once". >>Is this a Jegs/Summit type thing or something I call TA on?? Thanks. John
splitting $455 That thought crossed my mind becuase I know....I hadt the same thing happen to me. My question is, why don't they just put the damn shim on for us buick NUTS, its gonna have to go on anyways. Glad you got it fixed
Josh, no, the shim wouldn't do anything this was a fore and aft issue. John, I prefer the Tilton. You can undo the wires without dropping the starter since the solenoid is below as opposed to the Powermaster (I cursed a bit getting the wires on then tring to get a wrench on to snug them after it was bolted up I just put the Powermaster XS on so I don't know it's performance (hot, etc) The Tilton worked fine with stock flexplate and 10.6 comp. This one is 12-1 comp. It's possible that a new Tilton would clear (mine was 5 years old) Also, they may have redesigned it slightly. Bruce
