OK, I am done trying to do this at home with the wrong tools and no time. I found a guy that I like who will blast, prep, and paint my frame. He prefers shooting 5 Star Extreme High Build 2K Primer. The product can be used as a Primer/Sealer when mixed 4:1:2 (primer:activator:reducer). http://www.5starautobodyproducts.com/primers/5424.html He suggests that once sealed he would stop there and not use a topcoat. The manufacturer says not to use it as a topcoat since it is not formulated with U.V. protection. On the one hand I agree with him that a single stage topcoat (Bill Hirsch Chassis Black, Eastwood Extreme, etc.) is inferior to the 2K primer, but on the other hand the topcoat is the appearance layer. But is it required if the sealed primer has an acceptable appearance? Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks Chuck! I spoke to the Technical Assistance rep and while he says it will not soak up water unless it is sanded, he strongly encourages a topcoat to avoid chalking and breakdown eventually leading to the soaking problem.
i would also consider, even if blasted, using a metal prep as there is rust deep in those frames, a good epoxy primer and then something like eastwood's chassis black. I've used a 3 step process like this several times with frames and repairs and they look outstanding. I'm not doing show cars, but drivers though.
We use an epoxy sealer. It does not require topcoat. DP90 PPG and it looks factory. This is what even Dave Kleiner did to my GSX resoration years and years ago. It looks new still today.
I used master series rust sealer primer and topcoat on mine: http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/ http://www.masterseriesct.com/