:af: I have 2 problems: 1) i always noticed that when i brake the car pulls to the right, pretty hard and the only way i can keep the car straight when i brake is when i turn the steering wheel slightly to the left. any ideas on how i can fix this? 2) i opened up the brake resivoir (the place where you put the dot 3 brake fluid) and noticed that only one side is filled with fluid. i refilled the empty side so that both had fluid in it. i drove the car and later notcied that the fluid i just put in is gone!! any ideas on how i can solve this problem? Any helpful info will greatly be appreciated. i dont want to drive the car when its unsafe. thanks! John
sounds like you lost fluid in your system and you need to find the leak and fix it and then bleed your brakes
As far as the pulling, you probably only have the right front brake working. It will pull to the side thats operating Put the car on a set of jackstands and remove all 4 brake drums. Im going to assume you have drums all the way around. If you have front disc, this could get expensive. Inspect all the wheel cylinders. Your looking to make sure none of them appear wet. The dirt will be attracted to the moisture, so the leaky ones will be really dirty. Pull the boots back with a small screwdriver if you can and look behind the boots. From what you've said, I think youll find one or more of the brakes soaked with fluid. Sounds like a pretty signifigant leak Next take a screwdriver and try and depress the wheel cylinders on both sides. You want to make sure none of them are frozen. Inspect both rubber hoses going to the front brakes. Check for any splits, cracks, etc. Also check the rubber line in the rear that goes from the body to the axle. Check all the brake linings for wear. If they brake linings are riveted, you should have at the minimum more than 2/32 of material over the rivets. If the master is old, you might want to splurge for a new one. Or rebuild the original. If you have front discs, your going to have to send them to www.applehydraulics.com. They get 265.00 a caliper to sleeve and rebuild. Dont cut the rotors if possible. The rotors are made of unobtainium. You dont want to make them thinner if you can help it. If you need wheel cylinders, try www.kanter.com in New Jersey.
Check over everything ! All hoses lines (soft/Steel) like it's been said pull your drum on the right . IF your fluid is gone that fast you have got a serious brake problem . Don't drive it . That much fluid leaking your right backing plate should be soaked . If your soft lines have not been changed it would be a good time . Check them for cracking or splitting (even the rear). They can and do break down inside . This can lead to a couple things . One wheel goes "dead". Other side will pull like crazy ( if the rear collapses it's like you car will turn into a Submarine when you hit the brakes or lock the rear brakes up . At that time it's no longer a boat it's the Nautilis ;( 20,00 Leagues under the pavement )uzzled: One wheel wont release (or slow to release) . "Ditto" on the pull . First check the M/C again for any trash (dust and fine rust powder; if real bad it'll look like mud) in the wells . Check the color of your fluid it should be a clear Almond color or slightly golden . If it is not or there is mudd in the master cylinder if you've been bleeding the brakes it's probably in your cylinders by now . Pull all of your drums and check you wheel cylinders for leaks ( make sure you pull back the dust boots and look behind them) . You don't have to buy the whole cylinder if there is no corrosion in the bores . Buy 8 wheel cylinder cups and a hone ($15.00 or less) a gallon of brake fluid and about 4 cans of brake cleaner . Best to do this on any classic car . Good luck , Steve A FAST car is only Cool if it'll stop fast too ! Best thing if the cars' been sitting or is new to you , check out the system and rebuild it
If you don't find a leak at the brakes or the lines the master cylinder could be leaking into the booster.
thanks for all the info i will try everything you guys have mentioned. i will keep you posted on the prgoress
From the sounds of it this could be the last issue for pulling. However, if one drum is a larger diamater than the other (fronts) this will also cause pulling because there is a slight diffrence in the rotational speed where the pads contact. this will cause a pull because the one wheel will have more or less slowing to do than the other in comparison to the two.
Thanks for all the info, but just out of curiousity how do I "bleed the brakes?" Do I have to goto a shop to have it done or can I do this task myself? Also, if the master cylinder needs to be replaced, where would be a good place to get one? Or instead of replacing it, where should I look to have it rebuilt? thanks Johnny
Normally, even if you'd never bled a brake system before, it would be good to walk you through it...but...the crusty 40 year-old bleeder screws (one on each wheel cylinder) are going to give you one heckuva time, and the wheel cylinders might as well be rebuilt while you're at it. My vote is to get it to an experienced person/shop, and watch/learn while it gets done if possible. Safety items aren't really a good way to cut your teeth, this needs to be right on. Devon
Im not sure if the local auto parts stores still have a number in the books for your year Riv. I would call either Apple Hydraulics or Kanter. The links are in my previous post. Apple Hydraulics sleeved and rebuilt my 4 piston calipers on my Riv and i have nothing but good things to say about them. They did an excellent job. Im going to wager that your probably going to need 4 wheel cylinders, a master, at least one set of brake shoes, brake hoses, and at least a couple of hard lines bent and flared. Typical on a 40 year old car. The rule of thumb is whatever you think its gonna cost, double it or triple it. If your inexperienced, this may not be the job you want to learn on. Bleeding brakes is simple once you know the routine. If you replace the master cylinder, that needs to be bench bled. They make an inexpensive bench bleeding kit for this. Basically, your bleeding out the air thats inside the master. You do it while its in a vise on your workbench- hence the name bench bleeding. Once the master is bled, you install it on the car. Make sure the resevior(sp) is full, the lines are tight, and the cover is on the master securely . You start at the farthest corner of the car- the right rear. Have a helper pump the brakes SLOWLY while your at the wheel cylider with wrench in hand. If its the original master, dont press the pedal all the way to the floor. try not to go past its normal travel. Once the pedal has pumped up. Take a wrench and crack the bleeder open on the wheel cylinder. The pedal should drop to the floor. Tell your helper not to release the pedal till the bleeder is tight again. Once the bleeder is tight, your helper can pump the pedal back up. You want to see a steady stream of brake fluid come out with no air in it. Once your satisfied, then move onto the left rear, then the right front and finally the left front. Be sure to check the master periodically to make sure the fluid level hasnt gotten low. Usually it goes like this- You yell - "pump it up!" Helper yells- "OK"- signifying that they have a pedal/ the pedal has pumped up You- as you loosen the bleeder screw "hold it down" signifying to hold the pedal to the floor as you tighten the bleeder. You- "pump it up" Kind of hard to visualize, but thats the jist of it. ive thrown just about everyone behind the wheel of my car to help- my neighbor, his kid, my cousin Alysia, the wife. Anyone will do as long as they have a semi strong leg.
If it leaks that quickly, you should see the leak easily. You could also fill the master and have someone step on the brakes (engine off) as you look under the car. Definetly sounds like a bad problem - don't drive until it's fixed.
