Just wondering what would be the more economical route for my car. 1964 Buick Special Deluxe 2 door that still has I believe the original ignition and both door locks. Now I know I could probably buy reproduction ignition and door locks but maybe I can re-use these and just order new period-correct blanks and get them cut to whatever the locksmith figures out? Also, I'm wondering how I can get the ignition switch out of my dash? I can see the pinhole in the area where the key goes, and in my experience with a same-era Mercury, the trick was to put the key in, then a paper clip/pin in the pin hole and turn key way left past the acc. position to remove the lock tumbler. BUT I do not have any keys to this car. I'm under the impression that the tumbler needs to come out and then the main body of the ignition switch can be removed, maybe by rotation the cover ring with a special tool like a spanner wrench with 2 pins in it? Any insights appreciated.
if it's like my '67, there is a special socket like tool that fits over the outside ring (has little nothces cut in it) and screws right out. though we just cut the sheet metal right off since we were in a hurry and scrapping the car anyways. That said I have a whole set of locks and ignition, with keys if interested.
One thing to keep in mind with keys/locks is GM changed the type key each year. For 70 they were "J&K" for 71 "A&B" for 72 "C&D" and the lock housings were changed accordingly. So if you change everything out make sure they are all from the same year car or you will end up with a pocket full of keys. Duane
I actually have a set of master keys around here somewhere that would work on it. I think it's like 40 or 60 keys that fit up to 67...I think! I know on many cars there is a number on the glovebox lock that a locksmith can make the key from. That would fit the doors and trunk I think also. The ignition cylinder you need the key to use the pin hole. You may end up buying an ignition switch, too. Some cars you can't remove the ignition switch unless the cylinder is removed first. You are probably better to just buy all new locks, they are fairly cheap. Your real challenge would be to find an "old school" locksmith. He may even have a set of the masters laying around. Unfortunately, most of those guys are retired. There really weren't that many key cuts back then, and the cylinder pins wear. If you could find 10 peeps with the same car. you could probably open it!
In 1964 the door & igbition lock were usually the same key. Remove the door lock & take it to a GOOD locksmith & with the 4 number code should be able to cut you a new key. Now you have to deal with the trunk & glovebox. The glovebox only has a 3 number code & will NOT open the trunk. You need to remove the back seat & open the trunk & remove that lock. There will be another 4 number code that can be used to cut the key & it will also work in the glovebox. If your lucky & have the original owners manual sometimes the codes were written on the back page. Good luck. Tom T.
Hey Tom...that's good info...I'm not really familiar with that year, only locks in a general way. But...still...the prob is finding a GOOD locksmith! Geez'...I use to know four places I could go for that, now they don't want to touch them. It's like trying to find a good cobbler!
1964 was the last year of a single key system (on Special and Skylark). Doors, trunk, ignition and glove box were all the same hex head key. In 1965 they went back to the 2 key system of door/ignition and trunk/glove box with the hex head and rounded key blanks. In 1967 they started the alternating key codes of A/B, C/D, E/H and J/K. So, as long as you have the original locks......one key fits all!
If somebody has what you want, you're better off getting that, price-wise. I paid a locksmith $30 just to re-key the ignition switch, and I brought it to the store.
Oh cool, this is great info thanks everyone! I'll let you know if I find a locksmith that can make me 1 key to fit my doors, ignition, and glove box. Trunk? Unfortunately I don't need to worry about that, because some crooks or really ingorant shmoes tried to break the lock on the trunk and ended up destroying an otherwise rust-free, ding-free 64 trunk lid. In the process they also bent the frame crossmember, I'm guessing they hooked onto the x-member (the rear bumper was missing) to lever against. I fixed the x-member with my own homemade frame-straightening method!
I once had a lock smith make me a key by inserting a blank into the lock and twisting it back n forth then looking for marks on the blank. She filed the blank down to the mark and did it over and over until it opend. Was pretty cool to watch.
UPDATE: got my key-success! Thanks for all the helpful info on this. I did a quick internet search locally, called around and got referred to a local company that successfully made a key for the pass. door lock that I brought down to him. Tried it in both doors, and the ignition switch- works like butter. Cost: $25.00. Lovin it.
Hi I'm reviving thus thread because now I just had a key made for my glove box and it works on the ignition and both doors as well. So one key works for ign, door lock and glovebox lock. Is this normal for a 1964 Special? The car had no trunk lock when I got the car, but all the other locks appear to be original and I have no reason to believe any of them were switched out.
If anyone needs a good locksmith, try Wolf Security in Georgia. Guys name is Walt. My buddy just bought a 75 Hurst Olds that had no keys. We popped the ignition cylinder and glove box cylinder to get the original codes, and emailed Walt. Walt cut 2 sets of GM branded keys and keyed a new trunk lock for us. He also did some locksmith work on my 70. For the new keys to my car, all i had to do was send him a picture of the keys. He emailed me back and told me my trunk key wasn't a GM code and that I should try it in my glove box. Sure enough, it didn't work. Guy really knows his stuff. His email is keyman1@windstream.net
If you have the four digit-codes and just need the keys cut just go to a GM dealer. My local Chevy dealer cut me two sets of keys using the two four-digit codes I gave him. Didn't have the correct J & K GM keys so he used some generic brand and didn't even charge me when I told him it was a 70 GS. I happen to have the knockouts from the original keys so the codes were easy to get. And man do keys cut from the codes work a LOT better than getting new keys copied from worn copies of copies of the originals.
