Interesting that you noticed a better performance difference , as I did also between them and the flowmasters. Tom
Question for you regarding the seats. Are they aftermarket? For me, I found some covers and foam and took to a place to redo my bench. When I got the car back, the seat foam was so thick, I could not fit in the car anymore I had my head cocked to the side to be able to drive it as it was into the roof. This was about 9yrs ago. In the end, I went with seat extenders to allow me to slide the bench all the way to the back seat. I was able to drive it just fine. More recently I picked up some bucket seats, had them foamed and new covers. Same problem. Once again, my head is way up into the roof. It's like I need about 2 or 3 inches of foam removed from the seat (not the back) PS, I'm 6'. The foam for the bench and the buckets was a onesize fits all. Chevelle, Olds, Buick, Pontiac... starting to think the foam is way too thick for Buicks...
On the gas tank, they have a vent for the gasses. This vent goes into the trunk. Curious what you did with yours and how it's mounted. Mine has a small filter on the end of it. Just not sure where I want to attach it.
Re the Seats: The seats are stock 71 GM buckets still with the original foams that came with the car, just with new covers replaced 30 years ago. The modification of moving the seat track assemblies 2" forward on the buckets effectively positions the seat 2" to the rear on the rails they travel on and can also tilt the seat at a downward angle giving more head room. When doing this mod: 1) Remove bucket seat tracks and side covers 2)With the seat upside down, locate the existing rear track holes and measure 2" forward on the seat frame. The metal in this new bolt area is recessed lower than the old bolt mounting area. If you choose not to shim up to the original rear bolt height, you are tilting the rear of the seat down, effectively giving you more head room. (I shimmed mine about half way) Drill your new rear bolt hole here into the seat frame. It should be into a double metal structure here. Using a new Grade 8 bolt/nut fasten track temporarily to locate your new front drilling. 3)The front hole needs to be drilled in the track this time, at the position where the seat frame existing threaded hole is. 4) The new assembly will position the seat track forward past the seat frame, so the front of the side cover won't fit. Hacksaw or lop off 1/2 to 3/4" at the front of the track. 5) Assemble track into new holes using existing seat bolt for front hole and new bolt and nut into rear. 6)Reposition springs, assemble and ensure everything is even, parallel and functional.
Got this bracket for the clutch safety switch operation. To date have jumpered out the switch as it was difficult to make it function reliably.
This is the best post have ever read. Very unselfish and informational. I wish he lived closer I would like him to do my 71. I've been looking at the new Magnum F. Has anyone looked into it?
Just did a little mod to the Tremec's vent valve, as I suspected there were times it wasn't working to release the pressure built up in the trans. A sign of this was leakage of fluid from the speedo cable connector. The vent valve at the end of the t56 Magnum vent tube consists of a tube connector, metal cap, inside spring and an elastomer disc to act as a check valve to release transmission pressure to atmosphere. If this fails shut or is insufficient in producing enough venting, then inside bult up pressure will try to escape through the seals, connections and bolt together surfaces. To ensure air free flow in both directions I disassembled the vent end and removed the elastomer disc.
