So I removed my front windshield and rear window. Any help guys

Yeah I won't. I will look into renting a welder and a generator, body shop prices are gonna eat into vacation money and eveyone knows... Happy Wife Happy Home lol:beer

 

I know there's a lot of opinions on welders. I've used a few types and MIG is the best for this in my opinion. For what yuo might pay for a few rentals, you can probably get a decent 110v 140a MIG welder (I dont recommend flux core) and you will never be sorry. I have saved thousands with my 400dollar welder. Also, yiour local tech school may help with instruction and may even take in the window frame to teach the kids old school. I've been very luck in that way. Most kids love the old school stuff and are normally working on a 99 toyota. I'm moving to the front windshiled now - way too much fun!

 

I looked into the eastwood 135 mig welder and I think it will suite my needs. I don't think I will need much bigger as I will probably only do the following. Replace metal around windows, rear quaters, front lower patch on fender, and cut off the flowmasters that came with and replace them with resonators. Oh maybe an x pipe, but idk

 

what you have is a very common problem on a body gm cars......using bondo, fiberglass are only bandaid repairs......the patches are not that difficult to make and instal......you will need to have access to a sheet metal brake [or have someone bend you up an angle] and a shrinker stretcher......to see the steps done go to our website at PerformanceMetalShaping.com and there will be 2 pages on how to do this repair....this repair was done on my wifes 72 chevelle by our shop......once the welding was done the filler i used was Metal To Metal which is a metal based body filler and is very resistant to rust......we then coated the channel with SEM Rust Shield [por15 will work well also and top coated with the finish paint color......someone previously recomended rust mort or similar on the back to kill any rust on the back.....he is exactly right but Rust Mort needs to be washed off or it will create more problems you would be better off with Rust Seal which does not need to be rinsed off or Permatex Extend.......Lastly i recomend the use of an internal panel coating there are several companies that sell the product i personally prefer the coating sold by 3m......it is a spray that goes on like a penetrating oil but dries to a waxy surface......

 

hey I bought that small console frome you. The one with the sliding door... glad to see you on v8buick. Mark says he may have the section I need, so now I have to get things together and find a welder. I was thinking about the eastwood 135 mig, but now I'm thinking about a hobart. I will need one that can be setup for gas ( less splatter) I figure id buy one new so I don't end up with a dud. I'm probably gonna get a small generator aswell. With these 2 additions it will take a little longer but in the end all will be well

 

Good call on the welder. Maybe see if you can work with someone that has one first as you'll quickly figure out what you like best. I've used a cheap craftsman 90 to a decent lincoln and have been able to weld panels and heavier/frame as well. I am definitely not an expert, but the weld penetration is good and there is minimal filling. The metal to metal or all-metal is a great way to cover the weld aera. As for sheet metal bending, the advice about getting a brake sounds good, however I used a local sheetmetal shop to make the parts for me for pretty cheap and maybe someday I'll invest in a brake, etc. Sounds like metal shaper has some great advice and that's correct about the rust mort. I like the eastwood rust converter. Make sure you coat the back of the metal you're putting in - I have used weld trhough primer successfully and then coat the back with the panel wax or similar.

 

with welders stay with a profesional brand name such as hobart,miller, lincoln house brand welders such as sold by eastwood,northern tool,harbor freight,etc. all may work well but when you need to do repairs to the welder parts and people to fix them may become a chore.....most of these guys use tweco style guns so getting replacement tips and nozzles are not bad but hose liners [yes they do wear out or bend and bind] and other consumable parts may be tough to get.....infact lincoln welders can be bought at home depot or lowes at very reasonable prices.....NOW! here is the thing may people get sucked in to, we are welding on automobiles not bridge super stuctures, or aircraft carrier hulls.....the thickest metal we may wld on a car is maybe 1/4" steel and the average thickness is much less than that which means you don't need 500 amp welder.......for the average do it yourselfer a 110 volt welder will do most of the work you need to do......on thicker metal you would need to bevel your joint and make 2 passes.....if you can afford a few dollars more the small portable 220 volt welders will do everything you need.........the difference with these and the more costly larger roll around floor machines is the duty cycle.....on the comercial machines they have an 80-90% duty cycle and the smaller ones have a 20-40% cycle.......unless you are welding long runs for long periods of time you will never have to wait and stop to let your welder cool down......on my small machines i have had this happen twice in my 35 years of welding infact when welding sheet metal panels i prefer to use my lincoln 110v machine over my millermatic 285......hopefully this helps you in your welder choice too many times i see people sucked into buying a welder that they will never use because it the one a buddy has or the salesman oversells..... and the same is true with buying the house brand welders and finding out when the welder needs service you now have a nice door stop for your shop

 

I got a roof section from mark! It is in GREAT shape!! I would get the metal from him if I were you!! Mark is awesome to deal with!!!:TU:

 

Yeah mark is ah cool dude! I'm gonna be getting a few things from him