So the Suncoupe finally puked a little coolant yesterday.

Hi All.
The BBB had been running a hot lately. About 210.
After making some carb adjustments today, as well as replacing the dist springs for other reasons- I was making a trip to the parts shop for a 180 degree thermostat and new hoses. About 10 miles on the highway.
We were coming home and it got a tick above 210. I backed it in the garage, opened the hood as usual.
The over flow was almost full and gurgling just a tad. It spit up about a tablespoon of coolant from the overflow.
Today I put in the 180 stat. (I discovered John had a 160 in it.) Let it sit and idle in the driveway for about 10 minutes. right back up to 210.

What say you guys?

 

Could be timing, but sounds like time to replace the radiator.

 

I'm sorry guys can say what they want I run a 160,..its my belief that when using a 180 it doesn't circulate the coolant soon enough obviously and on a hot day the cooling system is playing catch up jmo,..but 210 isn't hot really,..230 is when its hot,.. 250 you worry 260to 280 you got a problem

When the ambient temp is hot its rough on everything especially iron block iron head engines,.not saying you may not have an issue but,..

 

A bad fan clutch???

 

Thanks Guys.
Outside temps were about 80 yesterday.
Wizard, I know you have a timing thread- Tell me, at hot idle, where should my timing mark be?

 

An aluminum head engine doesn't have near the problems an iron does , headers also help let heat out. I drove my dads around this morning 95° stock 3 row Harrison rad non thermal clutch sitting at red lights slowly creeps to 190 cruising its 180,..

Very little coolant maybe 20%

 

After installing the new Dewitt radiator and switching to the waterless coolant my issues seem to be solved. I think its more the radiator than the coolant. But being waterless it does not steam or build pressure in the cooling system therefore nothing to puke out. If you know your timing is right and the radiator is good Id look into replacing the fan clutch

 

I agree. At 210*, even if it was straight water, it's not to the boiling point. I think that the cap is faulty or you need a higher pressure cap. The cap relieving pressure into the overflow tank is not boiling. I don't understand why so many people have cooling system issues. If air is going through the radiator (not around it), the thermostat and fan are functioning, and the radiator and block aren't all corroded, why would it overheat? Even with my 523 and 4.11 gears driving through the park for two hours at speeds from 0-35 on a 95* day, I never see over 180*.

 

Yep overflowed yesterday too.

 

The cap is 16psi.
I'll get a cap and check timing tomorrow.
I don't know the number of the distributor. I'll see if I can get that too.
I know it doesn't matter, but the fan clutch looks new.
It sure does heat up quick.
It has the stock fan with shroud. I'm sure John sized the radiator appropriately-years ago.

 

Brian one easy thing you can do to check the fan clutch is just spin the fan.
You should feel some resistance but it should turn fairly easy but it shouldn't freewheel.

If it's heating up that quickly you're maybe way off with your timing or your water pump just isn't moving much water. When you first start it open the rad cap, look for any water moving. You can also wait for the thermostat to open to look for coolant flowing. It won't build pressure with the cap off so you can safely look at it.
Don't try to look after it's already hot and pressurized. Basic, I know. Be safe.

 

Came home sick today. Not working on anything.
I did buy a new cap today. Not yet installed.
I did the spin test on the fan yesterday, the fan spins with a little resistance, not free spinning by any means.
I really need to check the timing. But not today.

 

A new radiator cap was of no help. I bumped the timing up quite a bit and took it for a drive. No pinging, but still up to 210 fast.I have not put a light on it yet. It's too damn hot here.
I noticed a little movement in the full radiator with the engine running, but not yet up to temp.
If I don't get this squared away soon, I'll have to pass on the first road trip planned with my car guys.

 

My experience with a car that was plagued with high temps led to me finally pulling the radiator and having it checked. Was clogged up in the middle (flow scan verified). Re-cored and boom. End of problem. Tried new fan clutch, thermostat and cap before I pulled radiator.......

 

Yeah, I have had the same issues in the past. Everything new on the engine except the old radiator that would overheat when the temps got over 90 F. Put a new aluminum radiator on it and now it never goes over 180, even when it is 100 degrees and the ac is running.

 

Timing bumped up and new 3 core Champion aluminum radiator installed.
Idle temps stayed close to 180.
I need to take it for a spin and see what happens.
I removed the really loud Flowmasters and replaced with a pair of Dynomax Super Turbo 17793.
Is super quiet now. ugh.

 

whats waterless coolant. ?

 

https://www.evanscoolant.com/