ST400 transmission stator problem

Hello to all,
I'm new here and I hope this is the right place to ask this..

So, one day I bought myself a '67 Buick Riviera with original setup 430+400.
Extremely cool ride but engine was in desperate need of little love and attention. During last winter, I finished up my complete rebuilding of engine on it and would need little help to finish things up and making it perfect.

This is my first ever Buick (or GM) and I wasn't familiar with the throttle linkage before I had replaced my original worn out carb with a new 750 Holley. I made a little mistake to make and didnt put back the original switch that works with tranny... ou:

I did try to drive without it first, didn't work at all. My car stalled every time I tried to move it. I had bought Chassis Service Manual and reading it but never looked at the section with a picture of throttle linkage adjustment (64-4 on the book, pic 64-1) , After some research I noticed that there is a "transmission stator and detent switch" that controls how tranny operates.

Digging in deeper to my Buick's secrets and learning how it works, I salvaged old part from the pile of the parts that I still had. I plugged it in and presto, worked like a charm. Still did some adjusting on it and so on...finally got my Riviera on the road.

My problem is that my part is really worn out and doesn't seem to work properly. Movement of the rod is rough and so on. It works now but I have a jungle of springs over there.

Is there a way to get rid of that old stator/switch? Maybe some electronic switch that would use movement of throttle rod to turn on and off relay at tranny's end?

If not, is there a shop that reproduces them or does anyone have a good A1-condition replacement for sale?

Any help would be highly appreciated!
Thanks and keep those Buicks rollin'

 

I have also a ST-400 but my switch doesnt work.

Im thinking about using a toggle switch to stall it manual..

 

See http://home.comcast.net/~shinzan/ST400_linkage.jpg

There are two separate switches that control hi/low stall. One is a microswitch on the firewall linkage that energizes the stator solenoid to high stall whenever the throttle is closed. This really helps smooth the idle at a stoplight. See view "B".

The bigger switch at the side of the carb has two functions. It energizes the stator solenoid at about 2/3 throttle, and also energizes the detent solenoid (kickdown, downshift, passing gear, etc.) at 3/4 throttle. See view "C".

If you still want the detent function for passing gear, you'll have to keep using the stator/detent switch at least for that, but there's no reason you can't run a momentary switch on your dash or shifter to get high stall whenever you want.

I don't use the stator/detent switch anymore since I run a manual valve body and have no "passing gear" unless I downshift manually. I have a small momentary switch on the shifter for high stall on demand, and I still run the small throttle switch in view "B" for high stall whenever the throttle is closed.

Devon

 

Thanks for helping me out.
I would prefer to have a manual and automatic option available for high stall.
Maybe with a pilot light to indicate high/low stall as well.
Both options from other thread, Larry's and Schurkey's Bruce Roe contoller sound like what I'm searching for..
I'll contact Bruce Roe and ask for more information about his controller box.

Thanks again,

 

The nice thing about the electronic timer is consistency, the almighty factor at the dragstrip. Trying to control the variable pitch converter manually at the track may be too big a variable.

If you're creative with the wiring, you could easily run the automatic controller and a momentary switch as well, using high stall depending on the conditions. With a relatively stock engine, it might not be much of an advantage, but with a slightly more agressive camshaft profile it's really helpful to have high stall on demand, even with a stock vp converter.

Devon

 

Well, I now have some info about the box. It connects with 5 wires and a vacuum line. According to Bruce I still need a kickdown switch. He uses a 70's style above the gas pedal so I have get one of those.
From the info he sent me, sounds like it really makes the difference on daily driving, not so much on the strip.

--- Bruce ----
If you are racing, the above may not be of much use to you.
Above 3000 rpm the SWP has no advantage. Big power
doesn't need it. If you drive an old car 30,000 miles a
year, you might really like it. The original mechanical
control won't do it all, I use electronics to sense torque
and add time delays.
--- Bruce ---

 

This would be correct if you're running an un-modified variable pitch converter. For a modified converter that stalls over 3000 rpm, i'll bet the switch would still be an advantage at the track.

Devon