just got my stage 2 se heads and working on the rest of the short block .need to know what would be a decent street strip cam for my build any help would be great .here's my set up so far . stage 2 se's with bowl clean up and light port wiseco -22cc dished pistons will replace the trw pistons my block was 0 decked with trw forgings that i think will make these pistons a few thousands above the deck .I was figuring around 10.7 to 1 ? what is out there for a hydraulic cam that will still work well on the street
Nice '71 front end! Bring a Buick up to Oxford, Maine this summer. There are usually a couple of fast Buick running.
Steve, .525/.525 Lift(1.6 rockers), 231/234 duration 110 LC Just finished one with our standard bowl/chamber cleanup heads,( TA STG 1 SE ) SP-1 port matched, 1000 HP holley and a conical dish SRE piston shortblock 10.5-1 compression A TA 310 would give you the same results, especially with the STG 2 exhaust port. This is Clint D.'s motor (Leviathon) for his century wagon.. kind of a sleeper, hence the paint and later model steel valve covers..
We made 575 HP and 565 tq, with the 290-08HL cam and a true 10.1-1 shortblock and ported 67 430 heads converted to stage one valves, ta stage 1 intake an HEI and a 850 holley. my motor builder did 2 of these and they were both within a few HP of each other. the cam has a great sounding idle also.
Great info here, How about 113 or 114 LS to make idlle "sneaky" and make Hp on a 10.0 to 1 engine with these cams. Any recomendations or tips on "dialing" the cam for Hp to 5800 red line with the custom LS changes?
470 ci 10.1 ta290h stg2 se heads unported sp1 had a qjet on it and it made like 580 i think, and now I have a holley 1000 so i guess it picked up 15 hp shorty headers
Hi, I have a 1970 GS Stage 1 with Stage 2 heads, Ta310 cam, Ta roller rockers, headers, B4B, 10.3 compression, and 3.42 gears. I just took out a 2200 converter (worked great but drivability stinks and the cars surges, bucks, and sometimes stalls) and had a a TCI 240901 converter (2600-2800 stall) installed. I was told this would solve the "tightness" and thunk when I put the car in drive. I hate it even more now, car has to rev 1800 rpm (driving it like an old man) to get it to move. TCI recommended this swap to begin with and after the install, I called them about this. They said to send the converter back to do a swap out. I think I should go back to the 2200 converter and change cam to a TA 212 since I am willing to sacrifice some power to have a tolerable GS to enjoy. The only thing that has not been changed is the HEI distributor that was recurved at the time of the engine rebuild. When I crank the car up when it is warm, the engine revs to 1800 rpms and comes down slowly to 1300 rpm...always. I have had three rochester carbs and this did not cure the problem. The engine surges back and forth (have replaced intake gaskets twice to remove possible vacuum leak(s). I'm going to install another stock HEI this weekend to see if that is the problem. Car is strong but is tempermental and cold natured. Would anyone have an idea what might be wrong? Any info would be appreciated. Thank you, George
First, the right converter will feel like a stocker when driving around town, but will stall right where you need it to when you romp on it. it will be night and day. TCI is not the way to go. The converter must be built for YOUR combination. With converters, you get what you pay for. I would get in touch with Jim Weise. this is what you need. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=147066 Second, if the springs in your distributor are too light, part of the mechanical advance will be in at idle speeds. the weights will flutter, and the timing will be erratic at idle speed. when you drop it in gear, the timing will retard as the weights pull in from the reduced RPM, especially if the converter is too tight. Your engine will like at least 14-16* of initial timing. This is not usually possible with most HEI's because they have too much mechanical advance built in. Have you ever used a timing light to see what your timing is doing?
Just saw your response on the other thread. The biggest mistake people make with the Q-jet is putting one on without having it calibrated to their combination. Q-jets were all individually factory calibrated for the engine they were to be installed on. You can't put them on a modified engine and expect them to work. You can do that with a Holley, but even they will probably need some tuning. There are guys on the board that can build you a Q-jet or modify yours. Do a search.
