surely someone knows this

Discussion in 'The Bench' started by msc66, Jul 9, 2003.

  1. msc66

    msc66 still no vacuum

    Hey guys, sorry if this is thought an inapropriate way to go about this but I ran a post in the "color is everything" section and have gotten no responses. That section doesn't seem to get alot of traffic or maybe I'm just impatient but I'd really like to get someones input on this before I proceed. So if you are knowledgable about body work please check it out.

    Thanks, really!
     
  2. 72 pet chicken

    72 pet chicken i dont wanna be a pirate!

    just replying so ya dont feel left out :TU:

    pete
     
  3. Floydsbuick

    Floydsbuick Well-Known Member

    I'm not much of a bodyman...............And don't call me Shirley:laugh:
     
  4. Leviathan

    Leviathan Inmate of the Month

    Mike,

    The only thing I can suggest is to check what kind of a businessman the bodyman is.

    The one that actually returns your calls, has a procedure for getting your car done, has a method for payment is the one you want.

    If they've been around long enough to develop these BASIC business skills, they'll be a great bodyman.
     
  5. msc66

    msc66 still no vacuum

    Hey guys, thanks for all of your helpful and insightful replies:laugh: especially Pete's.
    I am actually the bodyman in question. I was just looking for input on products and/or methods of rust removal.

    Thanks again :TU:
     
  6. Leviathan

    Leviathan Inmate of the Month

    Was thinking of a different post, in a different section on a different day...I installed a headliner that day, musta sucked up some good fumes! :Dou:
     
  7. pglade

    pglade Well-Known Member

    I don't get it...I went back and looked at your inquiry and Bob Lorenz, a very experienced resto person, gave a fairly complete answer on how he deals with this.

    You cover the rust up and maybe you stop it, maybe you don't-that's your option with POR and all those other so-called rust stop products.....or , as Bob explained in detail, you can remove the rust completely and eliminate the chance of that particular rust spot growing.

    If you want a guarantee that POR will somehow stop the rust and never allow it to reappear then you should probably call the salespeople that sell the stuff.

    Patton Glade
     
  8. msc66

    msc66 still no vacuum

    Uuugghh???

    OK, I think this thing may be getting out of hand. First, I think we may be talking about two different products. I'm not referring to the por-15 coating that you paint over rust. I was referring to products like Eastwood's "oxisolv" or por's "metal ready" both of which are phosphoric acid based products that claim to desolve iron oxide completely.

    I'm not looking for an endorsement here, was just wondering if anyone had any experience with this stuff as I thought it might be a less messy alternative to sand blasting the light surface rust around my windows.

    Bob's reply was excellent. He obviously knows his stuff and I will try his methods but he didn't have any experience with this stuff either so he couldn't answer my question but that's OK, I don't think I really want to know anymore.

    Sorry for any confusion,
     
  9. msc66

    msc66 still no vacuum

    Hey Clint, no worries mate. I don't think it was the headliner adhesive but rather the inherent difficulty of this type of communucation to clearly exchange ideas and information. When you're talking face to face with someone you can tell immediately by facial expressions, intonation or what have you if you are making your point or just confusing the other person. Here, you can only depend on ones own ability to get a thought from his/her head to the screen (and of coarse ones ability to understand what he/she is reading:laugh:)

    Regardless, I still enjoy this site and have actually become quite addicted to it (just ask my wife).

    Later :Smarty: :Smarty: :Smarty:
     
  10. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    rust

    Mike - there is also the rust remover that Alan sold some of us on the board and many swear its magic! :laugh: Do a search under rust remover and you will see the threads. It may not work in your application if you are doing large parts or panels, but it can be applied by using soaker sheets. Read the threads!

    I do not like the acid based stuff cause you have to wash it afterwards... possibility for flash rust and did you get it all off?

    - Bill
     
  11. pglade

    pglade Well-Known Member

    Mike---I see your point and what you are trying to find out. Got to admit I was in a "busting your chops" mood yesterday....kind of antsy right now as I've already had to cancel my annual pilgramage to the Olds Nationals this week due to an ankle injury-I am not a happy person when I can't get my dosage of Oldsmobile cars and parts every year.

    Good point on Alan's rust remover. If you could find a way to keep the area wetted down with this stuff I think it would totally remove the surface rust...I can tell you that many people on this board have used it and it does work VERY WELL. You might order a gallon if you are just working on small areas---this stuff is easier to handle than the acid based metal preps that have been mentioned.

    Don't use POR where you have a slick metal surface---especially where the POR may have urethane windshield caulk on top of it....it will peel off the metal too easily. POR(like any other paint) likes a rough surface to bite to for adhesion. I've seen it pull away rather easily where the metal in a window channel was first cleaned bare with an 3M "wooly wheel"....I think sandblasting would be needed at a minimum.

    Good luck- Patton
     
  12. msc66

    msc66 still no vacuum

    Aaaahhh!!!

    Bill,
    Yeh, I never understood the need to rinse it off with water??? It does indeed flash rust. I have an article from HotRod where they say they stripped this Mustang to bare metal and then rolled it outside and gave it a bath to wash off the stripper residue. How can this be? Wouldn't the whole car turn brown with rust?

    Anyhow, the reason I started using the phosphoric acid stuff is because the less than ideal working conditions I have cause the metal to flash rust before I even complete the stripping (very humid here). So, after the panel was stripped I would DA it, soak it with the acid and then wash it off with this metal wash that Eastwood makes that leaves a protective coating. Then, when I was ready to prime, I'd hit it with the DA again quickly, degrease it, then prime. So far it seems fine but who knows about five years from now.

    The stuff that Alan has sounds great and its good to know that others have tried it with good results. I will definately get some for smaller parts or whatever.

    Patton, sorry to hear about your ankle. I know how that sucks having had one before but I can't imagine missing the Olds show. I feel for ya. Thanks for the input on the POR 15. I still like to sand blast everything I can but I was hoping not to have to pull the glass and mechanisms out of the doors or spend days getting the sand out. Oh well, I'll decide what to do this weekend.

    All is good in Mike's world again :beer
     

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