ok pics r on my car-domain, I'm wondering what i can do to start prepping my body, now that my interiors out. I'm sure the answers wet sanding four the surface rust on top and that's what i would like to start working on. Anyone wanna let me know some details, grits to use etc. Never done this before.
ok, im also looking at this naval jelly method after using the sander, i know for the holes, and a spot i saw on the trunk im gonna be cutting and hopefully my mig skills will be good enough, i know any work i do wont be perfect but that's why ill be painting the car silver when it comes time, lighter colors suposively hide flaws better
from what i read over google phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in the jelly, im getting a lot of negative feed about this project from my alero's forum http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o177/aarondudley_00/Buick/ heres pics for anyone having trouble viewing mine
what can i put over places that i treat, im assuming a primer but what kinds best i dont have a spray gun
Buy an electric D/A (random orbit sander) and sand the rust with 80-100 grit paper. Than treat the areas with metal prep to remove the remaining rust. After that, you can spray or roll on a coat of epoxy primer to stop the oxidization. Report back here after you have completed these steps and more direction will be available. At that time you will have had a huge lesson and you will have an idea of what's to follow. Wear safety gear and protect your skin and eyes. Also protect the glass and chrome on the car ( best if removed). Good luck, Matt
Matt, Lead on. I'll be following with interst about what techniques you recommend and use and the ones I have learned over the years.
.... And isn't this the car that was thought to have a 350 chevy in it a few weeks ago? I think we have confimed it is a 350 Buick- correct? If so, have you got teh car in drivable condition yet?
yes its buick, an no i need to to purchase the radiator, which will have to wait towards the end of summer, im living off my refund for college and dont want to blow it b4 i need too. But according to tags and inspection the car was good up till 04, and in the mean time im gonna take it slow. The epoxy primer does that come in a rattle can and if so what brand? BTW that you so much for you patience and understanding with my project I feel like others are burning me at the stake for no having means to have the car media blasted
Dont feel bad Im not media blasting mine either!! Mine is a build on a budget!! Hang in there guy, Not too many people are redoing a muscle car like you at your age!!!!!!:TU:
What are your plans for the car? - What level of finish do you expect? The way that car looks - You need to remove the windows first and access and fix those areas. media blasting the window channels will remove the rust and let you see whats going on. You can use a rattle can to seal and protect newly sanded and treated metal - but it must be removed before you start laying real primer.
right now i just want paint and body work that puts the car at ok, so i really play with the interior and make it run right, aslong as future problems are prevented i can get a serious paint job later, its not like i have a completion date, im no old man trying to get this done b4 he looses his eyesight after i get the body work ok a friend father is gonna let me use his equipment and help me paint the skylark silver(lighter color to help hide flaws) then im gonna throw on two blue racing stripes just recommend a brand of rattle can and ill get it and do it for the time being. I know i can do the hood and trunk myself, and probably most the sides, may pass it off and pay the man that did our 67 C10 to do the top, but either way im saving by doing the majority myself, i can even handle the cutting and placing new metal around that bad hole, im an excellent mig welder
You can't use a rattle can as a basis for a paint job. only for temporary protection. If you spray rattle can on a panel it will ALL have to come of before you aply a good 2k epoxy and then a filler primer. I have no idea what one is good - Just use rustolium - because it will have to come off. Use a metal to metal filler over any welds - than a good light weight filler like rage extreme.
ill see what kyrlon carries or duplicolor, ive heard to steer clear of rustoleum thanks for the advice guys hopefully i can start making head way this weekend!
I'll second those recommendations....sand off as much rust as possible. Neutralize the rust with a metal conditioner (most are phosphoric-acid based)...just give it a few minutes to work. maybe even more than one application. Then top with a quality primer. Epoxies are tough. They do require mixing two components, so they don't come in a spray-can (that I know of). Best bet is to find an auto-body supply store in your area (look in the yellow pages) and check out their products. There ARE some quality primers avail in spray cans, or even primers you can roll-on. A great auto-body site is: www.autobodystore.com forum there too!
ok boys lets see what you think the first is after two sessions of DA's and Naval Jelly(active ingredient Phosphoric Acid) Primed with Rustoleam AutoMobile after 4 sessions (temp, will sand down again b4 painting but to prevent rerusting) BTW how do i get the chrome off at the back of the hood?
