I was trying to test my factory s/p switch at the carb to see if it was functioning correctly. Don't think it is, I'm having a little trouble figuring out the connections and exactly how it should operate. Anyway, was reading one of the other threads here and it sounds like someone makes an electronic controller for these transmissions? I would be interested in one of them as it seems the factory stuff isn't that great. Who sells these controllers?
I have a Bruce Roe controller on my 65, and I like it alot. However, you still need the manifold switch to work to effectively use it. The switch at the carb is pretty simple - on or off. The micro switch at the pedal linkage is a little trickier to get adjusted, but also on/off as well. If you dont have a shop manual, now is the time to get one. it spells out pretty clearly how that system is supposed to operate, and how to adjust and diagnose. Not beyond the average guy, but you have to understand what you're looking for it to do first. If you get the factory set up working as intended, you might find thats as far as you need to go - short of racing, it's pretty effective.
I do have a shop manual and am using it to figure out the switch. There are 5 connections on the switch and I have determined where each connector goes. I have two switches and have been testing each with an ohmeter. I can't get either to test the way I think they should work. No matter where the plunger is I can't get 12 v out to both connections to the trans. I cannot find anywhere in the shop manual a diagram of the switch details that show a schematic of which terminals are open or closed at any givin position of the plunger. The wiring diagram in the manual shows that 12 v + to both the kickdown and switch pitch to activate them. I'm trying to check out the switch first to make sure its good before trying the setup on the road. The car is new to me, trying to learn here.
I agree, It's tough at first to troubleshoot when it's unfamiliar. I'll try to give a written explanation of what happens and when. The two switches are called Transmission Control Switch (the plunger) and the other is the Idle Switch, the small microswitch on the accel pedal linkage. See page 120-133 for another schematic that helps a little. During low speed part throttle driving, both circuits are open (dead). When throttle angle increases towards 2/3 to 3/4 throttle, the plunger is extended, closing one then the other circuit, causing detent (downshift) and high stall in the converter. Sorry, I don't remember which one is energized first. At part and full throttle, the Idle Switch does nothing. At closed throttle idle, the Idle Switch comes into play. Since the Trans switch is in open position on both circuits, the idle switch closes the variable pitch circuit for high stall at idle. The way this linkage is designed, the moment pedal pressure moves the linkage to open the throttle a bit, idle switches to open again. When testing the function of the Trans switch, use the upper rear terminal as the common point for one of the test probes, as that's the orange wire connection that energizes both circuits. I hope some of that is of some use! Understanding how the two switches act in parallel for the variable pitch function may help. Devon
I would hook a 12V test light to either of the wires going to the trans. With ign on, the wire to kickdown (lower trans lug) should have 12V close to WOT. The wire to stator control (switch pitch) should have 12V at idle AND near WOT. In a quiet garage, you might be able to hear the solinoids clicking on and off at each point. Using the pedal is best, because linkage slop might not give the same results just pulling on it. The OEM switches will only use the switch pitch feature at idle or WOT. Using an electronic control will add intermediate situations, where most driving is done. But a kickdown switch is still needed, a simple 70s type can do it. good luck, Bruce Roe
