ok I got some info from the bench telling me this here is my switch pitch switch now a further away picture Now this here switch is holding my throttle to the floor. And some of the wires seem to be disconnected. can anyone tell me how this is supposed to work and whats disconnected? I am a total buick noob but from what i am reading on this trans, I really want to get it right. its got 90k original miles on it. all help appreciated. Sean
Looks like a 64 or 65 lark ,,,????? and that is the switch pitch switch,,,, looks like a 300 or 340 engine.... does it have another micro switch at the juncture of the throttle arm/ linkage rod????? Dev is right we need the year and model and engine size.... switch pitch transmissions have 2 tabs on the side of the trans for electrical connection to the solenoid/kick down solenoid..... one straight up and one horizontal.....
Doc, was thinking of linking the '66 ST300 chassis manual section for him which has a good schematic on page 74-5 plus good explanation of ST300 variable pitch and detent function. Before I do, is the '66 info valid for '64-'65? Devon
Yep, that info is good for all 3 years.... I need it too.... so I can re set up my 65 lark.....:Brow: :Brow: :laugh:
Alrighty then..two birds, one stone. http://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/66_chassis/74-a.pdf Devon
Here's the rest. Consider a donation to help out the hosting site per the top of the page, too... http://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/66_chassis/ Devon
Great links. Its 65 lark sedan 310 2bbl v8. any more info needed? here is a few more pictures and the firewall tag any other info i can provide i will. with this transmission i should 'FEEL" THE CAR SHIFT TWICE? and i will look for said microswitches I am hoping to get her up on a lift this weekend so i can get underneath and see whats what. Thanks for the info guys keep it coming Sean
Now if the wires going to either one of these switches is/are disconnected would that cause problems with the car starting and driving? it never seems to want to start and idle right at first and the shifting feels erratic as well as it feels like the brakes are dragging when you try to start moving but once your moving its fine. I am thinking the converter is "locked" and the stall isnt owrking right due to a nonfunctional/disabled switch. could i be on the right track here?> Sean
Also is it possible to buy/rebuild these switches? I dont have my parts book handy so im curious, thank you Devon for your help here
also does that body tag identify what engine the car was supposed to have stock? IS it the E-2kxp-5g code? because if thats the case wouldnt it mean the car came with V-8 425* 2X4bbl KX this is the only KX i can find meaning the car was built as a 65 in late 64? I have no idea how to decode these things Sean
Sean,,,, that is the ''Wild cat 310'' engine,,, 9.5 to 1 compression, 2 speed switch pitch trans.... Sounds like, from what you describe that the trans is in low stall all the time... it needs to go to high stall at idle and when you hit passing gear,,, that is the job of the switches on the carb linkage... the orange wire is the power supply, the others go to the 2 solenoids, that are INSIDE the trans pan... the terminals are on the left side just above the pan... you can test them by jumping 12 volts directly to the side terminals and listening for the ''click'' when they actuate.... If you get the trans switches and all straightend out , the car will be a different animal....:Brow: Unfortunatly , if the solenoids are bad, the only source is a another trans... hard to find.... or if you know someone who is a electronic whiz , you might be able to rig up something.... it should be possible to adapt some of the modern electronic solenoids from late model cars to work.....o No: o No:
There is a good chance your switches are OK, if so its just a matter of getting the wiring right. Without them the trans will always be in low stall (like a regular trans). The trans is supposed to be put in high stall by a 12V signal from the switches, at idle and near maximum throttle. Your electric kickdown is apparently not connected either. A test light will help check it out, and you can hear electric clicks from the trans while pushing down & engine not running. High stall makes it easier for your engine to idle without creeping, and gives a little more performance at WOT. My car was converted to switch pitch, and I use an electronic control instead of those crude switches. Bruce Roe
With that plug disconected from the trans, It will operate like a normal trans, just without kickdown. The stall speed in low stall mode is pretty normal and shouldn't feel like it's dragging. As for the other symtoms you describe, I think you will have to look somewhere other than the trans.
The first place I would look for these starting & shifting problems is a vacuum leak. Possibly going from the intake behind the carb down to the transmission modulator valve. There are small sections of rubber lines at both ends of the steel lines which are connectors, these often dry out and split, I would look at these. Mike
thank you for all the good info gents I will try and get underneath this bad girl this weekend if one of the lifts is freed up. Ill let yall know what i find. Sean
Devon, Another ST-300 question for you. I have an original 64 Special with the 300 2bbl engine and ST 300 Transmission. This is a survivor car with only 42,000 miles on it. It had 38,000 when I bought it 3 years ago. The transmission works fine and shifts properly. I suspect the transmission has never been serviced. Fluid is not bright red in color but there is also no burnt smell to it. My question is if I drop the pan and find no pieces of clutch in the bottom, clean the filter screen and replace the fluid would that be sufficient? I know this will not replace the fluid in the converter. The other option is to take it to a transmission and have them flush the tranny with new fluid. I have heard two different things about this process. One says they use pressure to do this and that's not good on the transmission. The other says the process uses the transmissions own pumps to remove the old replacing it with new through the transmission lines going through the coolant tank. Part of me says if it's not brok don't fix it. The other says this fluid is or could be over 47 years old and replacing it might be the best thing to do. Thanks in advance for your help.
Personally I've never done an automatic transmission flush on mine, instead I added a small drain plug to the converter. If you'd rather not take a chance by flushing the trans, you can do two or more oil changes running the engine in between. It won't get 100% of the old ATF out, but will significantly dilute it with fresh fluid. Another possibility if you're willing to go through the hassle is to disconnect the transmission's oil cooler outlet from the radiator and point the tube into an empty five gallon bucket. The old fluid will come pouring out at startup and you'll have to keep up by putting fresh fluid in through the dipstick tube. Devon
