WOW! Now we are talking same language, this is just what i wanted....BIG thanks to BRUCE ROE and i really appreciate that wiring diagram/detailed explanations. :TU: :gp: Still interested on your nice box...have to try those connections first and see if i'm satisfied whit them...if not i'll have to contact you about the box. Do you have those boxes on the shelf or do you make them as orders come? And important question regarding the box, if i wanted one are you willing to send it to Finland or can i forget it? And can you tell the box price? Edit: Stupid question but will those connections require kick down switch? I don't have that connected now but i have aftermarket kickdown switch what i'm propably going to install. And thanks to all comments, help and information everyone has given me too. :TU:
Markus, Best to get everything checked out in your car. If you still need something else, the controller might be considered. There are several shelved here. I have shipped to other continents, but it takes a lot longer to get it there. Shipping & duty can add a lot to the total cost, its $165 picked up at my house. I just shipped an extra SWP torque converter to the Netherlands, no telling when it will arrive. My original purpose using SWitch Pitch, was to get back some acceleration for a heavy car with an economical 2.41:1 cruising rear axle. So a 3.73:1 axle will change your needs, and you may not be interested in any distance cruising. Kerry Doyle put a controller in his 455 Cutlass, liked it so much that he changed his axle from 3.08:1 to 2.56:1. Do what works for you. good luck, Bruce
Yes, before i contact you, i will check the car...any specific things need to know? Nice to hear if i want one i can get one, i'll keep that on mind. It takes forever ship stuff in here, i think it takes approx. one month...except TA performance...they send my SP-1 intake and other stuff under 2 weeks, i was really supprised of that. Yes, Shipping & duty will add LOT of the total + VAT over here, but if i want one i don't have a choise... but it will still come cheaper than that if i would come over there to pick one up!:laugh: Thank you for once more!
not to hijack but I am looking for the same thing on my 67 300 with St-300 trans as car is a slug off the line...would this help...and Larry your PM box is full AGAIN lol ---------- Post added at 08:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:56 PM ---------- as unit is small we have a couple of guys from Denmark going to BPG event and shipping a car back to Denmark and another guy coming from the Netherlands i can reach out to them if you want.
SEAN RYDER, Do check that your St-300 is going into high stall when you are in a hurry, 12V applied to the stator terminal. Factory only applied it for idle or WOT, but that could be out of adjustment. With a 300 engine, I'd change to a 3 speed TH400 to better launch. Bruce Roe
I can tell you it works well with the higher 1st gear of the ST300, and gets the nailhead right into the powerband at launch..... I've never fully understood torque multiplication and Larry or Bruce can probably explain how a higher stall plays into that, but I've been told that the net effect is making a 3.23 gear act momentarily like a 3.73 (or something close) If all that is true, then better control should help. However, if your car is stock and fully functional you should have high stall at full throttle now and the box wont change that, if anything it can bring low stall in earlier...is your converter currently working?
I really need to get it over to John Csordas so he can check everything out...it seems to shift fine and downshift etc...you can feel the switch pitch working so to speak...i believe it may be out of adjustment as you have to mash the peddle from a cruise to get it to downshift...
Sean, if your trans is still using a 1967 valve body, this explains the lack of part throttle downshift. Upgrading to a later valve body is the usual fix. See http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/SPTrans.htm. Devon
Devon - I've got a 65 valve body and I've got kickdown (although it comes in only at full throttle because of the way the contacts are positioned in the switch) Does the kickdown thing onloy apply to ST400s?
As I mentioned, if you're not getting part-throttle downshift, the valve body is the culprit for all '65-'67 ST400's. The article explains this regarding the 2-3 valve and valve body design and how the '68 and up valve bodies were changed to accommodate this issue. Devon P.S. sorry, getting off-topic here.
Does this apply to ST300's as well? I was under the impression that the downshift was only actualted electically....
Yes, that is the same for the ST400 and TH400, which downshifts near wide open throttle becaise of the electric switch. The question was, does the ST300 have any provision for part-throttle downshift based on the governor and modulator circuit input like the '68 and later TH400? This function is separate and independent of the detent solenoid powered by +12V, the downshift due to the detent solenoid being energized is not what I've been trying to explain. Devon
It has to do with valve body calibration. Buick intended the car to accelerate on the hi stall of the converter instead of a downshift. The switch pitch valve bodies were calibrated that way. They would only downshift at or near full throttle. There are 3 inputs that the valve body receives, Modulator, governor, and detent (kick down). While the electrical kick down signal may be there, the valve body calibration won't allow the kick down to occur until full throttle. The SP valve bodies also lack a 3-2 valve. The so called part throttle kick down occurs hydraulically as opposed to electrically. The SP valve body will also cause an earlier 2-3 up shift. I went through this years ago, and if you guys read the entire article that Devon linked, you would have saw that. Years ago, I modified my governor to produce a 1-2 shift at 5500. I never checked the 2-3. The first time down the track, it shifted 1-2 @ 5500, and then almost immediately into 3rd. No matter what I did with the governor weights, the 2-3 was way earlier. Always had to nail it to get a kick down also. The solution was to swap in a 1971 valve body. It would now shift 1-2 @ 5500, and 2-3 @ 5400. I could also get the part throttle downshift at 40 MPH, by just pedaling it a bit. Didn't even need to crack the secondaries to do it. With the ST400's, that is the solution. Not sure about the ST300. Are the valve bodies similar? Can they be interchanged? That is the question.
When is all this happening? I mean when the car is shipped to Denmark and when is thet guy coming from Netherlands? I'm really tempted to buy that box but not sure yet if i can afford at this time. This opportunity is great to get that box cheaper to here but have to think about it, thanks for your offer! To Bruce, Larry and other... I'm sorry about the first post's frustrations and confusions... when i was typing my first post's, i was understanding the solenoid action otherway around= when solinoid has 12V then it would go to low stall :laugh: When i was in my confusion talking to my brother (who previously owned the car), he told me how SP works also...and second confusion was to me low stall / high stall what understand following way: low stall "sticky" side = engine rpm is lower when car starts to push forward. High stall "slip" side= engine rpm is higher when it start to pull forward. Then i was getting confused my self and forgot what is what+how solinoid works. This really dosen't matter anymore but wanted you guys to know what caused my "grazynes" or what ever to call it. :spank: :laugh: