Hi, I have ran castrol or mobile 1 in my car for years. It has had the same 105a cam in it for about 7 or 8 years now, been so long I don't remember when I put it in. I have had the motor apart for mods a couple times and the cam and lifters still look almost new yet, I don't mean to say that a good regular oil would not do the same but I would think the cam would be one of the first things to show wear if oil was not doing its job. The only problem I have is rear seal leaks, not real bad but just enough to make a little mess under the car after a while. I tried the mobile 1 15-40 "muscle car" oil and had way to much oil pressure, I am now running 10-30 and still have about 70psi at 5800 rpm with stock size pump and booster plate. I ran castrol synthetic in a stock 455 with rope seals and the seals all fell apart and pluged up the oil pickup screen, It was dry until I put the synthetic in and within a couple days it leaked real bad. I was told after that happend that the synthetic oil eats the wax out of the rope seals and they fall apart, all I know is it ate the rope seals up in mine. Tom
alright guys, i am running 10w 40 in my 350 not 455, it is cstrl synthetic blend, should i switch to royal purple since i hear it is the best kyle
New Mercedes come with Mobile 1. The service department will NOT change the oil until 10,000 miles. My cousin and his wife both have M-classes, and that is what he told me. His wife had hers in for a new battery and she asked if she could go ahead and get the oil changed. They wouldn't do it. She had to go back a few weeks later.
OK, hre we go. I run Coastal 20W 50, its $0.99 a quart and works great. I run it in all my engines. If I could find something cheaper I would probably switch to it. I change my oil frequently and find that its better to run cheap oil and change it more often then that expensive junk and change it less often. I do use the HP5 oil filter in my 455 which cost about $9.00. In fact, a lot of oils are processed at the same plant. (Look on the back label next time you are at the auto parts store) We used Coastal in our 79 Chevy that put 898.4 to the rear wheels. High gear let go at 7000 RPM on the last pull. I think it had more left. Anyway, took out the bearings and they looked brand new. In fact over a two year period the motor was torn down once and we put the same bearings back in because they were in such good shape. So fo you guys that spend 5.00 a quart on oil, I feel you are wasting money. "They Say" that the difference bewteen synthetic and conventional oil is that all the molecules are the same size in the synthetic. If you are worried about wear on your engine, put some magnets in the oil pan, you will be suprised on how much crap is caught by them. This is especially important on Buicks because of the aluminum oil filter housing. The magnets can catch metallic particles before the oil pump gets them. Blair Phillis
That is something to think about. I have heard that ALL the oils come from only a FEW places. The difference is in the additives and such that each company puts in.
I like the idea of 15w-40. I live in AZ and it is warm all year long. My 455 has 100K plus miles on it. I have Mobil One in it now, but I think I'll switch to the Rotella next time. I read it has some additives that help protect the older (years, not miles)motors. Also have heard the GM additive, I think it's called EOS?, has additive that help the older motors John
Whats up with pennzoil? I see alot of people on here do not like pennzoil? Why is that..... I have always heard pennzoil was good oil like the 15/40 long life pennzoil has and that everybody stayed away from Quaker state.... I myself use valvoline 20/50 racing oil. :grin:
I believe that Pennzoil and Quaker state were made from Pennsylvania oil. Some of the worst sludge I have seen (15 years ago) was from Pennsylvania crude. Does not seem to be the case today. just my .02 Could have been the owners and not the oil John
Oil Reply Wow, thanks for all the input guys. I think I'm going to try the 20-50 oil and see what happens. Winter is quickly approaching and the mornings are in the low 40's high 30's. The heavier weight in the colder climate will probably run more efficiently anyhow. Thanks again, Nick
As it gets colder, it is generally better to use a lighter oil so that it will flow better at start-up. :TU:
Personally, I would NEVER recommend you using a 20-50 in cold weather. It is like trying to pump mollasis through a straw. I did this one time in the early nineties in my other 72 riv with a 455 and when I started it up on a cold winter morning, it literally blew the oil filter in half! No kidding. Unless your engine is loose or you are in a really hot climate, I wouldn't recommend the heavier oil. It just makes your engine work a little harder. If you are having oil pressure problems, I would consider the adjustable regulator from TA with possibly a pump rebuild and use a 10-30 full synthetic, like Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1. I am partial to Castrol myself, but they are very close in performance. :TU:
