Can you get a magnet in there? IIRC, there is not a roll pin that retains the tv valve itself. That valve is what typically hangs up in the bore. I honestly forget what I did to get mine out but I also took the valve body out to do a shift kit at the same time.
Jacob, I've been at it for over an hour with a magnet and it's not coming out, although it freely moves. There was some slight return movement of the valve which could mean there is a spring in there already ? Rang an auto transmission shop and he reckons throttle valve won't come out unless take valve body off. Not doing that so probably put it back together and see if the valve did come unstuck and solves problem. Only wanted to get valve out to check if there was a retrofit spring --- maybe there is. But before I do put back together , does anyone have input into a throttle valve upgrade kit. I see them advertised ----- why do you need one and what does it achieve ? Mark I can't find the video anywhere, will keep looking. On another note ----- deep pan. Apparent cooling advantage, do you need a different filter + dipstick ? I see one advertised locally, already has a drain plug fitted.
My apologies, there is a second roll pin that retains the tv valve that the valve body must be removed to access. This video was pretty helpful when I did my tv correction and shift kit install. The 15 min mark is where the tv valve upgrade starts. I bought my kit from Dana at Probuilt Automatics. He is very knowledgeable and helpful and would be able to point you in the right direction if you do end up needing to dive further into this to fix your sticking tv issue. The reason the upgrade is needed in the early 700r4 is due to the tendency of the tv valve getting stuck in the bore. I believe it is the valve design itself and not just the lack of a spring that contributes to this.
Two answer the second part of your question, a deep pan, if you have the ground clearance is never a bad idea. The extra fluid does help with the cooling, and the drain plug can come in handy. Same filter, same dipstick.
I do recall stumbling upon that you tube video and I think that's where I learnt about the 2nd roll pin. There is part 1 and part 2 , very informative. So what I did was send TransGo a help email. I took pictures of the cam relative to plunger at idle and WOT. There seems to be a problem here ? Look how far away the cam is before it makes contact. Surely that's not correct. Either the plunger spring is too short or the TV cable is waaay too slack. The TV cable has two stages ---- 1st being a soft spring tension followed by stronger resistance spring tension. I have my carb set up whereby increasing throttle from idle picks up the soft spring tension first. At WOT the TV cable runs out of travel, but the plunger has only just moved ?? I'm confident the TV carb geometry is correct as per Art Carr website.
It appears the TV plunger is not out far enough at rest. I had a very similar problem, it turned out the original builder installed the roll pin incorrectly and I could never get the idle pressure and WOT correct at the same time. Double check the roll pin / groove relationship.
That has kept nagging away at me Dave. All the pictures / videos I have seen are as you say. I keep thinking maybe the builder put the wrong spring in there. I got a reply from TransGo and he said the plunger should be all the way in at WOT, which this is clearly not. I will go back to them and hopefully they can spare me some time to re-look at it. After what you have just told me I fear the valve body might have to come off
After a few go rounds that got me nowhere, I started from scratch. I bought the Bowtie Overdrive kit, with their cable mounting bracket, new spring designed to be used with their carburetor throttle mounting plate, and a new standard TV cable. I also installed a new throttle cable at the same time. I didn't need to take the throttle body out, but I found the issue as I was installing the new TV spring. The roll pin was in the wrong spot on the sleeve.
After hours ( days ) of internet searching I have finally found the answer in Step 1----------- ------- https://orders.bowtieoverdrives.com/SecureCustomerArea/docs/checktv/tvcheck.html So I have to make a decision. 1. Re-adjust TV cable to get the correct lever cam to plunger position ( this has to be done even with option 2 ) = easier 2. Pull valve body off and fit a throttle valve upgrade + above = harder
I'd pull the valve body. A) You'll make sure it's all 100% before you put it back in and B) A shift kit is almost always a good idea. They help the transmissions behave better. Lots of YouTube vids showing each step.
I'm thinking that too. I just need to source the valve body gaskets. I'm looking at a TransGo kit to do the job. One problem I have is that I can't access the servo in my street rod without taking out trans. I asked TransGo for help whether I can upgrade everything else in the kit but leave the servo alone.
I've ordered this kit, hope for it to arrive before Xmas. Picking up gaskets next week and getting on with it and solve all this problem ---- it's gone on too long. Also thinking of putting a deep pan on. Anyone have any experience with this, apart from any ground clearance issues. Good idea, unexpected problems, really worth it / not really worth it, other parts required ? Comments please.
I installed a Derale deep pan... Between the extra fluid and air tubes, I am confident it lowers the trans temperature. I wish the drain plug didn't stick straight down, but it does have a bung for a temperature gauge probe. It uses a standard 700R4 filter. https://derale.com/product-footer/transmission-pans/cooling-pans/14204-detail
Here's an update. I was able to access servo ( only just ) by dropping exhaust and disconnecting trans mount and lowering the engine / trans rear. It gave me just enough space to get the servo out --- part by part. TransGo kit does not come with new seals , had to buy separate. Pulled the valve body and installed shift kit. Had to buy new accumulator body and piston, it was badly scored. Separator plate had some ball wear so replaced that. Of course parts suppliers were closed down during Xmas / New Year break so that was a further wait. Adjusted the TV cable so cam touched the plunger at idle. Installed drain plug in oil pan. Filled her with up with oil and went for a short drive to the end of my road and back. Everything seems to be OK. Need to take on a longer drive to get into overdrive. Car is not licensed yet so couldn't go too far. Can finally get on to fitting front panels and hopefully ------ Finished !
