Hi there, I know there have been several threads concerning the TH2004R, but I feel like I have to ask this explicitly: If the shift points are too low(mine are around 3500rmp, Chis at CK says it should be around 4500-4700rpm), WHAT exactly is happening to the tranny? Everybody states that this can ruin it, but WHAT ruins it? It`s not the cluchtes, is it, like they wouldn`t connect, produce heat and burn off? It has something to do with the pressure that gives the signal to the tranny to "shift now", this happens too early? I don`t get it, and because I have to go another 50 miles to my friend to help me adjust it, I have to know if I can do this without smoking the tranny. I have driven it for about 200 miles since the swap, with the cable out of adjustment(I didn`t realize it from the beginning) , and I need to go the above mentioned 50 miles more to get it fixed. What hurts the transmission the most in that case, just driving it, or is it the traffic light blasts? Jens
Really easy to adjust: http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm If it's not correct, you can fry the trans in no time. What VB are you running? Some just shifted too early. The cable sets up the pressures and is not like a standard kick down cable. Here is a chart of some of the more popular codes: TH-200-R4 ID's: ID Year(s) Application KZF Olds 442/Hurst CZF 85-88 Monte SS CRF 85-88 LG4 305 powered Monte Carlos/Pont Gr Prix BRF 86-87 GN/T-Type/Turbo Regals BQ 84-85 GN/T-Type/Turbo Regals BR 83 Model T-Types TAF 89 Turbo Trans Am OZ Hurst Olds OM Olds 350 Diesels OG lds 307 BY V-6 252 Cars AA and AP Cadillac's I orginally had a KCF and it was junk, shifted way too early. You want a BRF, BQ, BR or a CZF to get proper shift points. The other VB can be modifyied to shift correctly, takes work and tranny knowhow.
Thanks, I got a CK StreetStrip TH2004R, talked to Chris about the shift points, and he too told me to correct the cable asap which I intend to do. What does that exactly mean "fry the transmission", overheating because the clutches don`t come together? It`s more like the transmission shifts hard, it`s no sluggish shift, but then also it shifts at 3500rpm, with is about 1000rpm from where it should be. Damn, I didnt? do the install myself, so I SEE the problem, but don`t know how to correct it, that`s why I wanna go to my friends garage to help me fix it. Jens
Opps, Fry = destroy. The cable is really easy to adjust. Not sure of your set up, however, on the GN, you just set it all the way in, then slowly put the gas to the floor (Engine off of course) and that's it. Test drive it and maybe slide it out another notch. That's it. Good luck.
Just be careful when you use the term cable because it can get you confused quick. It's a thin steel cable that runs inside a black plastic/rubber liner. The liner gets locked into place and the cable slides back and forth inside of it. The cable is connected to a part inside the tranmission that controls how much pressure the fluid has. If the pressure isn't high enough or is too high than the trans can burn up. The cable itself is adjusted by setting it's resting point in relation to the liner which is stationary. This way the part inside the trans knows how far the throttle is opened based on how much the cable is pulling. Just read through this and give it a try http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm
Hi, the destroying means the clutches burn up? I`m trying to get it done, and I hope it`s not that hard to figure out. I`ll give it my best, and then we`ll see! Jens
Bammax, the mechanic had it installed so the shifts where not as smooth as my TH350 but not the "head-through-windshild" type of bang(it`s a performance transmission, it is supposed to let you feel the shifts a little, right?). It went through all the gears, but shifted too early at WOT(3500rpm). I then tried to modify the shiftpoint by adjusting, and it went harder, shifts went not as smooth and still 3500rpm. I`ll try the opposite way today or tomorrow. Is the shiftpoint also influenced by a loose cable, or just by the governor? The govenor is set for 4500rpm, but it isn`t getting there unter WOT conditions. Man, I had this tranny shipped all around the world, so I don`t want to hurt it. My setup is simple: stock 71`GS, 14" wheels, 3.73 out back. Jens
a. Adjustments are made with the engine off. Locate the Adjust Tab on the cable housing. Press in the tab and push the slider as shown in Figure 3. b. Release the tab and rotate the throttle lever to WOT and the cable will self adjust itself as evidenced by a few audible clicks. Release the throttle lever and check the cable for any signs of binding or sticking. c. Road test the vehicle. Under moderate acceleration your shift points should be close to the following: 1-215-20 MPH 2-325-30 MPH 3-440-45 MPH
I think you need to properly set the cable and then leave it alone. If the shifts are the wrong rpm, perhaps the governor needs work. If the harshness is off, its in the valve body or pressure regulator. Bruce (doesn't own a 200) Roe
Have you checked to make sure the cable is situated properly? Sometime the off the shelf brackets don't hold it at quite the right geometry. This has sent many people into fits because the cable is adjusted right but still doesn't work right. Figure 2 demonstrates the correct geometry for the TV Cable mounting position. Use the following procedure to determine if your ADJUSTER MOUNTING POINT is correct. a. Push in the Adjust Tab and retract the Slider in the direction shown in Figure 3. b. Without allowing the Slider to move, pull the cable until it stops and measure from the mounting bracket to the cable end. Add 3/16" to this measurement and that will determine the ADJUSTER MOUNTING POINT distance at full throttle (WOT). c. Also note in Figure 2 that the distance from the throttle shaft to the cable end is referenced. This distance must be between 1 7/64" and 1 1/8"! The cable end mounting point should follow a 78 arc between closed throttle and WOT in order to achieve the proper amount of pull on the cable.
Yep, I guess that might be it!Didn`t have the right bracket, and improvised a litte(Holly to Q-jet). I think I`ll have to get the right bracket and see how it performs, I`m sure it`s gonna be ok. Thanks for your help Jens
Not only do you need the correct braket to hold the cable housing near the carb but you also need to TV cable to mount correctly on the carb. Have you swaped out the throttle shaft for one with a spot for a TV cable to hook up to? If you do not want to do this then be VERY carefull and build a bracket: http://www.cpttransmission.com/Files/tec2.jpg I think you should read up on the basics of how the tv cable/valve setup works: http://www.tvmadeez.com/ I also think you should read about the symtoms of your trans: You should perform presure tests to be sure you get everything right: http://www.tvmadeez.com/pressure_test/index.php These are the symotoms you describe: [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]SSS is potentially a very dangerous condition since the vehicles accelerator pedal will be signaling the vehicle's engine to make increasing amounts of torque before the TV valve even starts to signal the transmissions pressure boost system to raise line pressure to off set this increasing twisting force. Severe SSS will lead to very rapid transmission clutch / friction failure since clutch clamping pressure will be lagging behind engine torque input! Mild SSS afflicts a large percentage of Th-700R4 and Th-2004R transmissions because of the natural "shortening" of the TV spring that occurs during the millions of cycles this spring is put through during it normal lifetime. If the TV spring is not "re-calibrated" during the rebuild and installation process, this "illness" will still be present when its installed back into the vehicle. This condition will lead to a much shorter service life then it gave the first time around. We believe that "mild" SSS is the root cause of almost all friction failures in these transmissions especially high gear friction failure. Food for thought; if a transmission is capable of providing 300,000 miles of normal service but "fails" at 125,000 miles instead, is that acceptable? [/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The other leading cause of failure is overheating which is also easy to prevent![/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]SSS also delays the signal to delay the up shift timing, consequently the transmission will "usually" short shift ( commonly called stack shifting) as it sequences up through the gears. Stack shifts are shifts that occur earlier then is appropriate for the specific throttle setting at the time. While this condition can be quite irritating, it normally doesn't hurt anything. Low pressures, on the other hand, are very serious and can easily go unnoticed until it's too late since a little bit of slippage can be very hard to detect. Whether you know about it or not, it will still accelerate friction wear.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Another affect from the condition of SSS is its affect on downshifting. Downshifting will be delayed relative to accelerator pedal position or be non -existent altogether. This is especially noticeable while trying to get a forced or detent downshift which relies on the TV plunger being totally depressed into the TV bushing at W.O.T. If your transmission is late to downshift or doesn't two gear (detent) downshift, I would be very suspicious of an SSS condition.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This condition is very easy to identify using a 0-300 PSI gauge to confirm instant pressure response with even the slightest movement of the TV cable. (Insert link) The installer can easily remedy this condition.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Our advise is never drive a vehicle that has an SSS condition until is fixed![/FONT]
I haven't heard any feedback on this practice but.. there is a site online that details a valve body modification that prevents this potential failure. It basically feeds the transmission with a constant or fixed line pressure so in case of misadjustment ov the T.V cable the frictions will survive. Keep in mind this may have other ramifications, but as a DIY it cost very little except time to perform. This is NOT the valvebody kit selling for 2-3 hundred dollars.
Hi, I had not the correct TV bracket delivered, so I went for this set here: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=221 Do I need anything more, Sean, you wrote something about a special throttle cable (bracket) to which the tv cable can be hooked at? They have some here, are these the ones you mean/I need? http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=WA4
Those guys at bowtie overdrives are pretty smart when it comes to the little stuff. I'd just ask them exactly what parts you need to make everything hook up right and they should be able to provide you with all of it. They'll need to know the type of carb and possibly what motor you have.
You will need to get the required geometry for the tv cable off the carb. Without looking at the diagrams I have shown you will only guess, I would also spend the money to have the hyd. pressures tested. Without that you are destined to a early issues with the trans. :beer
Yep, I`ll go for that too, you`re right. In my second thread I`ve asked the members to share their experiences with the TV MADE EZ system from Bowtie for I`ve ordered it. As soon as I`ve got it installed I`ll check on the pressure! Thanks to you all Jens
